LR3 Posted June 2, 2011 Author Share Posted June 2, 2011 Time to bend and install the radiator hoses. Tim has written a tutorial and posted it in the Tutorial section of the forum index. It is titled: Making Custom Pre-bent Rubber hoses and can also be found by copying this URL: http://www.scalemoto...bber-hoses.html It is tricky. I could only accomplish the bends by making a large gauge wire pattern to help me visualize what needed to be done then making a soft copper wire copy of the pattern so I could straighten it out to get the proper length. The hose is made up of rubber cord stock covered with heat shrink material. The proper length of cord stock needs to have about 3/8" extra ends that are almost severed (I found it just as easy to sever the extra ends and hold the assemble together by the heat shrunk cover.) The assembly is bent under heat then chilled in cold water to hold its shape. There will be some slippage but the assembly is rubber and forgiving. The upper hose is the easiest so do it first to get the idea. The patterns for the bottom hose show a little more complexity. There is probably more than one way to do this but due to the X frame cross member behind the radiator, the steering box, the radiator and the main bottom frame member I chose to come down from the water pump and up over the rack and pinion steering to the bottom of the radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baddgass Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 Super nice model and one great build, but a little out of my price rang. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 (edited) I LOVE how this is coming together! My only question is------shouldn't the windshield be raked back a few degrees? I don't remember the 1:1 being quite so upright. I know it's not done, but the base of the windshield against the cowl seems to be pretty set. Edited June 16, 2011 by MrObsessive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR3 Posted June 16, 2011 Author Share Posted June 16, 2011 I LOVE how this is coming together! My only question is------shouldn't the windshield be raked back a few degrees? I don't remember the 1:1 being quite so upright. I know it's not done, but the base of the windshield against the cowl seems to be pretty set. You are probably right. Tim has made up a new cowl hoop that has the positioning pegs mentioned. I have the initial cowl hoop w/o the positioning pegs (holes). The windshield here is just laying in place w/o attention to actual position. It can't be attached yet as there are hinges to be made for the doors, etc. and painting before the final attachment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonoPed Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 I LOVE how this is coming together! My only question is------shouldn't the windshield be raked back a few degrees? I don't remember the 1:1 being quite so upright. I know it's not done, but the base of the windshield against the cowl seems to be pretty set. I think Bill's right on this one. Still, this is an awesome project!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR3 Posted July 12, 2011 Author Share Posted July 12, 2011 The thread hiatus was due to TDR re-engineering parts of the model so that their market could be expanded to include a builder with my limited experience. I ran into problems including the door hinges, grinding the interior sheet metal to shape, creating a front air duct hose and taking care of gaps between the sheet metal and body that let you see the pavement where you shouldn't. These problems for the most part are final engineered now and I can progress. One thing I might pass on is to limit your amount of handling the model, as the CA-sheet metal bonds are not the strongest. There is little for the CA to grab or melt between two clean metal surfaces. A thumb pressed against the wrong surface can pop a seam and the joins don't always go back together exactly how you wish. (Tim adds: this problem goes away if the seams consist of dabs of epoxy inter-spaced with dabs of CA glue. That way the super glue would cure and hold things together until the epoxy sets up.) Initially the plan was for the modeler to grind the interior sheet metal to fit the door interior shape. It was determined the front bumper mount and rear trunk sheet metal positions the body and door precisely. Positioning the door interior part should be so that there is the same open space all around the door then the new sheet metal and door will meet properly with no grinding required. The change was needed because I managed to vibrate too many parts and seams loose grinding down the sheet metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR3 Posted July 15, 2011 Author Share Posted July 15, 2011 The door hinges were the next hang up. Tim had planned on the modeler using a hinge tube that was designed as part of the inside surface on the cowl hoop. My prototype did not have this feature. Rather than hold up the build I fabricated similar tubes but found an application problem. I could not seem to bend a proper hinge for this interior tube. One solution would have been to glue the doors shut. I decided to cut a notch from the cowl hoop to make room for mating the hinge directly to the body. I also found I needed to use lateral tubes so the door could slide away as opened to keep from scuffing the side paint. The upside of this is the doors are removable for paint; the downside is the doors are removable. (They can slide out if they are in the open position and the body is handled.) TDR is working on a better solution soon to be announced. But I rather thought my solution was close to some cars I have seen. And the hood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR3 Posted July 17, 2011 Author Share Posted July 17, 2011 (edited) Another hang up slowing down production was the fact you could see the pavement in a few places you shouldn't. I used some filler pieces to close the gaps. There are a number of production model solutions in study but I tore ahead with a styrene wing placed on the body just behind the door and a small piece of styrene on the sheet metal back. Once painted black all was well. This is why there is a prototype model. Edited July 18, 2011 by LR3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
62rebel Posted July 19, 2011 Share Posted July 19, 2011 i started reading this Saturday and i am thoroughly engrossed in this build...... i've built very few larger scale models and NOTHING at all to compare to this behemoth.... very impressed with the build even i i have to repeat myself. when i was a kid, i lamented the utter lack of anything even CLOSE to scale to properly equip my squad of GI Joes.... and having recently seen "Play Dirty" with my cousin, also a huge GI Joe fan, we set about trying to build LRDG Chevrolets from whatever two crazy country kids could find. never got past drawing up plans...... now... if we'd had a rapid prototyper and some education in engineering..... hahahahahahaha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR3 Posted July 23, 2011 Author Share Posted July 23, 2011 The body is ready for paint preparation. The last detail is to set up the windshield and hood latch handles. There are holes in the cowl hoop for short pegs that will lock the windshield into position. Test position the windshield now to see how the pegs fit and see how you can snap the windshield legs into place because later you will be doing these as possibly the last step in building the model. I will glass in the windshield lastly. Here is a template I found to work for the windshield glass. Although it's resolution is only 72 dpi, it should print out the proper size on most printers. I have used a soft clear protective envelope for the glass material. If you have access to projector film for presentations it may work better. I drilled holes for 0.8mm bolts to fasten the hood latch handles and deck handle before paint. Masked the underside and painted; painting is the least of my specialties. I just can't get that wet look! If you normally use heat or sunlight to dry model paint DO NOT place the hood into these conditions as the hood may warp with excess heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted July 23, 2011 Share Posted July 23, 2011 Syd, this has been a terrific thread! Keep up the great work... we're watching! BTW... a few coats of clear will get you that "wet look"... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR3 Posted August 2, 2011 Author Share Posted August 2, 2011 Almost time for the final assembly. The steering wheel cannot be installed until the dash and the dash can’t be installed until the body but now would be a good time to address steering. The wheel is discussed in detail in an old thread from Tim: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=32398&st=0&p=324757&hl=daytonatim&fromsearch=1&#entry324757 It is made up from a nice piece of hard wood milled to shape and two metal parts. The secret is to sand the back of the hard wood until you can just see the wheel emerging. If you don’t sand deep enough, the wheel can shatter as you try to cut it out. (I know mine broke into four pieces.) If yours breaks the pieces can be glued to the metal rim as I have done. The steering assembly consists of the wheel, button and turn arm. The steering column requires the addition of a universal to make it to the rack and pinion assembly. Best to have this done before adding the body. There is a deep hole in the wheel/column assembly to allow easy attaching after the dash is installed. i.e. the steering column length can be loosely estimated now based on it’s position with the cowl hoop. If it is too long the end can be nibbled until the wheel assembly slides firmly into place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted August 2, 2011 Share Posted August 2, 2011 The steering wheel turned out great, even with the breakage. The steering column U-joint, however, is no good. It rubs on the inner fender. Assuming you have assembled everything correctly (which of course is what I do assume), TDR is going to have to look at that issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonoPed Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 Looking at the paint again, the color looks a little uneven, but that could be the lighting playing tricks on me. Still, I can't wait to see the finished build, it's just too darned cool!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W-409 Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 This is truly amazing work! I've been watching this one, and all I can say is WOW! It's looking so great. Detailing is super, and you've done lot of work for it. That steering wheel looks amazing. Can't wait to see it finished, great job!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ra7c7er Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 That motor is awesome. The car looks amazing already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR3 Posted August 10, 2011 Author Share Posted August 10, 2011 Before wrapping up the interior, the exhaust and air ducts should be trial fitted. The realistic air ducts were made from the white RP material as a six-piece assembly. There is a left and right so the bends should be inboard to leave room for wheel and tire. Right now I am just checking to see how they will be finally attached before painting. There is a small hole in the sheet metal to allow a wire to pass through to align the parts, which also have holes in their ends. The front collector piece can be made to slip easily over the front hose end to allow for final mating adjustment when gluing to the body. The part mating with the foot box will fit against the foot box securely and it may be prudent not to glue it to the box as you might need to flex the sheet metal when fitting the body. The collector can be temporarily held in place with masking tape. The air ducts will be seen with the hood opened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR3 Posted August 10, 2011 Author Share Posted August 10, 2011 Now is a good time to consider how the exhaust mounts also. The exhaust has mating flanges to the manifold. It would have been helpful to glue 00-90 bolts into the exhaust manifold flange before originally mounting the engine. I have not been able to mount the bolts in the confined area now that the engine and sheet metal are in place. The exhaust pipe rear extension slides through an opening in the rear frame/floor support. It should not be attached until the body is finally mounted, then small straps can be made to hold the rear extension from being dislodged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR3 Posted August 10, 2011 Author Share Posted August 10, 2011 (edited) One of the many mistakes I made assembling this model was painting the sheet metal gloss black. I should have used flat back. Thinking about whether to mask and repaint Don suggested flocking or use of a black Velveteen material. There is another more expensive solution to interior covering, "HIRO Adhesive cloth for seat", but it costs about $8.00 for a 4x6” panel. Don sent me some black velveteen to try and the results were not bad. I painted the back of the Velveteen panels with white paste and slid them into place. The sheet metal drawings were perfect templates. Besides the steering wheel, other interior details are the seats, shift and brakes levers. I also dropped in the outside mirror as it stands now. Mirrors with the new RP material are on order so I can compare the materials. The seats need a ¼” riser underneath to sit at the right height. I tried looking at the detail parts with them temporally in place to see what the model would look like without a body. Shows lots of nice detail that way. Budgeting could be the best way to buy this model. The length of time it takes to build it suggests buying it in sub-assemblies. It would be easier on the pocketbook at any one time and the budget would be the same as buying a number of other models to build over the same length of time. Depending on how much time one can spend on their hobby, the total model could take a couple of years or more to complete. Edited August 10, 2011 by LR3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted August 10, 2011 Share Posted August 10, 2011 (edited) "Budgeting could be the best way to buy this model. The length of time it takes to build it suggests buying it in sub-assemblies. It would be easier on the pocketbook at any one time and the budget would be the same as buying a number of other models to build over the same length of time. Depending on how much time one can spend on their hobby, the total model could take a couple of years or more to complete. " If this is so Syd, the market for this kit would be comprised of approximately 5 or 6 patient and wealthy modelers worldwide who are willing to deal with it. As much as I admire TDR's mission to turn out something extra-special, the strategy of this eludes me. It is not at all accessible to the most avid Cobra builders. PS: Is that tiny air filter for real? Edited August 10, 2011 by sjordan2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR3 Posted September 3, 2011 Author Share Posted September 3, 2011 Just received the TDR 427 Roadster Exterior Trim Kit and the world will never be the same. The surface is akin to fine sand paper and can be glass smooth with very little wet sanding. Here is a headlight and the gas cap in the new material lightly sanded. Doing some last minute touch up while waiting for the chrome paint to gas out before handling. (I usually touch the chrome paint too soon and dull the finish. Also I am told clear coating the chrome may dull the finish.) By the way, the new Frosted Detail level of material offered becomes completely transparent if wet sanded to a polished surface. Anyway the bottom of the kit is even more interesting to view than the top. I am sure many of these will be displayed on mirrored stands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darin Bastedo Posted September 4, 2011 Share Posted September 4, 2011 I hope there is still time to Fix this, but the exhaust routing is completely wrong for a 427 Street Cobra. The exhaust should be routed up and over the rear suspension , not under it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR3 Posted September 6, 2011 Author Share Posted September 6, 2011 FINISHED It has been a journey. TDR let me build this prototype because if I could build it anyone could and they also wanted to find out what pitfalls would occur in a build. Wish I could build this again. It is a massive model, weighing at least twice as much as a Pocher and with many more details. I just wish a real craftsman would start a new thread showing how to really dial this model in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR3 Posted September 6, 2011 Author Share Posted September 6, 2011 (edited) Edited September 6, 2011 by LR3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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