Polishing cars

[sno_man80]

I still scratch my head on how you guys get such great paint finishes. For my latest biuld, I warmed the cans to the point were I need to use a hand towel to hold the can, and I have def. noticed the difference. I also for the first time used primer. A couple days after the clear had time to set I used Black Magic auto wax and didn't notice squat. I put on 3 layers of clear and again noticed a slight difference. I havn't wet sanded any final coats as it was reccomended that I leave well enough alone! I have a practice car to try on, whats the recommendation?

[NickTheGreek]

I wouldn't have recommended putting wax on before the clear.

[MrObsessive]

Scott, I can't speak for using spray cans as I never use them to paint bodies. Nevertheless, you really can't get away from wet (or dry) sanding to get your top coats as smooth as can be.

Basic rule #1 is never put on paint in heavy coats.................light coats are what's needed to make good coverage without "burying" the body. If you have to make 7 or 8 passes to get coverage, so be it.

Primer coats can be sanded with 600 grit sandpaper to get some of the roughies out, that's after letting it dry for a sufficient time. This'll depend on the brand/type of paint, humidity, coats, etc.

Depending on the type of paint I use will determine whether or not I wet sand. Metallics I try not to "disturb" as little as possible due to the metallic flakes getting "changed" if I try to rub them out. So it'll get clearcoated after a very light sanding to get rid of any dusties.

Clears can be wetsanded, but I personally don't like to wet sand clears as the water can "hide" the progress being made and I end up burning through the clear.

Solid colors I can wet sand because the hardener in the paint allows you to wet sand and polish without clearcoat (at least in my case). I use Meguair's Car Cleaner Wax with a chamois cloth for the final polishing.

Wax shouldn't be put on until the paint has thoroughly dried and been rubbed out.

All in all, it takes practice, practice, practice to get the results you want.

There's no exact science to painting as all kinds of variables can affect the final outcome. One thing to make sure is to when you find something that works...............stick to it.

[sno_man80]

I wouldn't have recommended putting wax on before the clear.

I did the wax after the clear, I waited till the paint smell was no longer noticable to a reasonable extent. It did show little shine, but as Mr. Obsessive kinda said with out saying, I need to switch to air brushing, I'm satisfied with my painting as I've come along way, but I want to reach the point of that high gloss look, I can't justify buying a air brush set up so, my rattle can work will have to do for now, and hopefully by next year I can work my way to the air brush set up. I think for now I'll learn the tips and find out the tools that I need until then. But for now I'm looking for any tips and tools that are required. Thanks for the help everyone, I'll be watching for everyones tips and hints!

[Smart-Resins]

As for the modeling paint, I have always tried to stray away from the clearsdue to possible yellowing.I too have haited to build a car then paint it becuase I would "ruin" it.I could never lay down a good paint.I just recently tried using dupli-color automotive paint and layed a near perfect job and also tried thier clear(hope it does not yellow?)Very smooth and shiny.No wet sanding or polishing.It is on a drag, so not much body there.On my next one I will try wet sanding and polishing to see howmuch better I can get it.I do warm the cans(not hot) only using hot tap water, and of course I do use primer and sand that once or twice to make sure the body is smooth to start with.

[bobss396]

I can get the same results out of a spray can (as long as the can sprays nicely) as I get with an air brush. Canned paint by Duplicolor, Black Gold or Tamiya all spray very nicely.

The only clears that I've had yellow on me were Tamiya X-22 acrylic and Testors. These were over white so the effect was most obvious. I now stick with Tamiya TS-13 clear, also use Duplicolor's and HOK clears.

I used to polish all the way to 12000 grit but now will polish something out to 6000 grit and follow that up with Meguairs Show Car Glaze.

Bob

[sno_man80]

Does anyone know of any step by step web sites? A visual always helps the best, I get nervous when I hear wet sanding over a finished product!

[bobss396]

Does anyone know of any step by step web sites? A visual always helps the best, I get nervous when I hear wet sanding over a finished product!

I used to get the heebie-jeebies when I wet sanded for the first time. Of course I blew through an edge by the time I was almost done. From there I practiced on junk bodies, hoods, whatever I had around.

Enamels are soft and take less effort to polish out. The Tamiya sprays are a little harder, lacquers are the hardest. One of the many benefits of lacquer IMHO. Just make sure you have a few coats of paint down, try to put a good first coat on all fender lips, panel edges, crown lines, etc. When polishing try to stay away from those areas and work up to them.

Try one of those Detail Master polishing cloth sets. They're a good place to start and come with directions.

Bob

[RyanSilva]

Everyone pretty much has it covered, il just point out, that dont get the cans that hot! warm is fine, skake it, get warm some more, but you should still be able to handle it with bare hand. If the gas is to hot to the point of a towel being needed, the can will explode. Its happened to me, i wasnt near it thankfully, its something that isnt cool. The can wasnt new either thankfully again :shock: :oops: . its messy and can spread shrapnel like a grenade!

Usualy the indent at the very bottom pops out in reverse and it creates that ''smuck'' sound like when you first open a jelly jar.

[Modelmartin]

Everybody has given a lot of good advice here. The only thing I will add is that polishing is the key to that crazy shine you are looking for. Some guys use the polishing kits with all of the different grits. I usually start at 3600 and go all the way to 12000. The other way is to polish with compound. Novus #2 will give you a real nice gloss. I use the kit and the compound. Use soft cotton like t-shirt material and be gentle and support the underside of the surface you are polishing. I don't use wax myself but might give it a try one of these days. Good luck and remember the first 100 paint jobs are the hardest - it gets easier after that!!!

[bobss396]

Everyone pretty much has it covered, il just point out, that dont get the cans that hot! warm is fine, skake it, get warm some more, but you should still be able to handle it with bare hand. If the gas is to hot to the point of a towel being needed, the can will explode. Its happened to me, i wasnt near it thankfully, its something that isnt cool. The can wasnt new either thankfully again :shock: :oops: . its messy and can spread shrapnel like a grenade!

Usualy the indent at the very bottom pops out in reverse and it creates that ''smuck'' sound like when you first open a jelly jar.

I had a close one a few weeks ago. Normally I drop the can into a pyrex measuring cup with hot tap water, but check it with a thermometer first. Around 105 F is pretty good for me. No idea what this was, but the bottom of the can did bulge out on me while satnding on $12,000 worth of cape cod grey deck! I would have to had to move out of the house.

Bob

[stevehansen]

Hey Kids

I only use rattle cans.

I place cans in hot tap water for 5 minutes or so.

I always put a clear coat on.

Wait a week or so and wet sand with 1500 grit, careful around the edges.

Rub out with Soft Scrub.

Automotive wax till my shoulder cramps.

[bobss396]

Hey Kids

I only use rattle cans.

I place cans in hot tap water for 5 minutes or so.

I always put a clear coat on.

Wait a week or so and wet sand with 1500 grit, careful around the edges.

Rub out with Soft Scrub.

Automotive wax till my shoulder cramps.

I'm big on rattle cans, they do a good job if you got the knack. I'll have to try the Soft Scrub trick.

[ramonesblues]

Steve Hansen has it nailed.want to make it shine? use Meguiar's H7 then Meguiar's paste wax.

[sno_man80]

Mr Obsessive says to use a 600 grit to wet sand the primer, I do believe him, as I've seen his work, but after the 600 do you go with a higher grit? I did practice on a "junker" and used a 10,000 plus grit for the final sanding and it was as smooth as glass. Then I went on to put on approx. 5 coats of the choosen color, wet sanded that until it was as smooth as I could get it, and applied 2 more coats, I'm stil in the process of finishing my practice job. But when it comes to polishing it for that beautiful shine I see on everyones finished project, thats what I'm really trying to go for in the end. It seems that people recommend a 4,000 grit then 12,000 grit final wet sanding. I guess I'm confused on how wet sanding creates such a glorious shine.

[MrObsessive]

Scott, I use 600 grit sandpaper to do primer coats but I don't go any higher than that because I want my color coats to have some "teeth" to lay onto when painting.

If you're applying enough coats, that should cover any minute scratches that the sandpaper leaves behind.

Wet sanding color coats is up to the individual builder................I wet sand solid colors as I mentioned so the paint residue doesn't clog up the polishing cloths. I don't wet sand (or rub out) metallics due to the flakes possibly getting "disturbed".

Wet sanding alone WILL NOT get you the desired shine! Final waxing does.

What you've written it seems like you've already done the hard part............now get some wax and start polishing!

[MrObsessive]

Scott, if you haven't seen it, take a look at my Turbine Car thread where I just painted the car the other day. I used Tamiya primer as a base................it laid down smooth enough where I didn't have to sand much at all, just a few dusties.

I won't wet sand the paint because it is a metallic, but I'll "spot rub" a couple places where there is some dust flecks and then clearcoat the whole works.

After the clearcoat is dry (Tamiya X-22) I'll rub that out, (I seldom wet sand clears) and then do a final polishing with Meguiar's Car Cleaner Wax, and a chamois cloth.

[Merkur XR4Ti]

Scott,

I am an average modeler. These guys have given you some great advice. I'll tell you what I usually do on my builds:

- Wash the body thoroughly in warm soapy water and let it dry.

- Apply a couple of light coats of primer. If you're painting the car black or dark blue or silver, you can use gray primer. For nearly every other color I use white primer.

- I'll examine the primed body for molding lines and other imperfections and remove them if necessary. I'll then reprime after that.

- I give the primed body a quick rubdown with a 2400 grit sanding pad.

- I apply 2 mist coats of color, waiting about 10 minutes between each one. If I'm using rattle cans I warm the can in a bowl of warm water beforehand.

- I'll then apply 2 to 3 wet coats of color, allowing 30 minutes or so between each one. If the color looks good I let it dry for about a week.

- If it's a solid color, I'll then start rubbing out the color with Micromark sanding pads, starting with the 3200 grit, and working through 4000, 6000, 8000, and finally 12000 grit pads, being careful of the edges.

- If the color is metallic, I'll apply a couple of wet coats of clear over the metallic first, then use the sanding pads.

- I'll then rub the model down with Novus #2 fine scratch remover.

- If I'm using automotive lacquers, I'll then rub the body down with Meguiar's #7, followed by Megiuar's #26 wax. If I'm using hobby lacquers I won't use the Megiuar's (it tends to soften hobby paints) and instead I'll finish up with some of the Treatment's Model Car Wax.

This car was painted using Testor's Lacquers, and using this system it turned out very smooth and shiny. There is no clearcoat on this model.

[sno_man80]

Scott, if you haven't seen it, take a look at my [url=http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3269&start=90]

After the clearcoat is dry (Tamiya X-22) I'll rub that out, (I seldom wet sand clears) and then do a final polishing with Meguiar's Car Cleaner Wax, and a chamois cloth.

Doesn't wet sanding after a few coats of clear help get a good smooth coat for a final clear? Or will this naturally happen when polishing.

Merker XR4Ti, thanks for the good advice as well.

[Guest zebm1]

As your sanding grit gets smaller, so do tha scratches in tha paint, until yu reach a point that to tha naked eye and touch it is smoooth. :wink:

zeb

[MrObsessive]

Doesn't wet sanding after a few coats of clear help get a good smooth coat for a final clear?

Not wet sanding clears is a personal preference of mine because the water on the clear "hides" the progress too much for me.

I've burned through creases and edges when wet sanding clears, so it's easier for me to dry sand it. I just have to clean the polishing cloths more often.

Getting a final smooth coat of clear (or solid color for that matter) all depends on how well you paint to begin with............if you're painting techniques are not up to par to begin with (ie: Too far away, not enough pressure, etc....) then the last coat of clear can be a moot point.

The wet sanding/rubbing out should be the final things you do before polishing with wax.

Scott, as Bo Jackson once said in a famous commercial........."Just do it!" :wink:

[bobss396]

I'll color sand between coats to get the boogers out of the finish, also will do the same with clear if needed.

I look at orange peel and other surface imperfections as hills and valleys. The coarser grits knock the peaks off the hills, the finer ones get it as smooth as the valley. Also don't sweat it about getting into tiny little recesses or too close to an edge. I've taped things off to keep from blowing through them while wet sanding. Or you can carefully work up to those areas first.

Don't be shy about using coarser grits if the 3200 pad won't cut into a harder finish like lacquer. I had a nail polish job that needed to be attacked with 1500 grit initially.

I'm also a big believer in Meguairs Show Car Glaze, it is similar to Novus 2 maybe a bit finer.

Bob