HELP! Back into the hobby after 25 years

[90lowboy]

HI, I back into the hobby after 25 years, things changed a little. It would be greatly helpful If someone can give me direction to a couple questions? Which glues to use ? What body putty/glazes to use? And do they differ between styrene and resin. THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR YOUR HELP...

[Chuck Most]

First of all, welcome back!

As far as glues go, I mostly use super glues and epoxies, with Tenax glue for styrene when I can find it. Tenax doesn't work with styrene to resin or resin to resin joints (neither will the Testors 'tube glues'), that's where the superglue comes in. For clear and photoetched parts, I use white glue (like Elmer's) or epoxy, since superglue can sometimes fog clear or photoecth parts.

Two-part body putty is the best to use for filler, it won't shrink like single part stuff, and doesn't take forever to dry like the old Testors contour putty does. I like to use the Bondo brand stuff- comes in a package with the big tube of putty and the smaller tube of hardener. Mix it in a 4 to one ratio (4parts filler to one part hardener), and you're good to go. And it works on any primed surface, be it plastic, resin, or metal.

Hope this helps, and again, welcome back!

[george 53]

WOW, 25 years hu? See what a draw these little cars can bring even AFTER so long??? WELCOME BACK! Yeah, Leo, ALOT has changed, but these guys here can answer ANY question you may have. For Plastic models I like to use some liquid glue called Ambroid. It applies with a self contained brush. For resin, you NEED super glue or epoxy for it, as plastic glues of ANY KIND do not have any effect on resin. Chucks advise is pretty good, as his idea comes in an EASY to find glazeing putty tubes. I use a plastic based filler called Evercoat. It is a two part putty that comes in 1 qt can for about 20 bucks at auto paint stores. Hope your enjoy your return, and you COULDN'T have come to a better place, these guys are GOOD!!!!!

[Trae]

Welcome!

I'm currently using ...

Zap-a-Gap for my superglue needs,

Plastruct General Purpose Plastic Weld for bare plastic joints,

30-min epoxy for a large part of assembly, especially joints that need careful alignment,

and Aleene's glues for clear parts, some photoetch parts, and mock-up assembly.

For putty, I really like Evercoat Glazing Putty.

[90lowboy]

THANKS GUYS! You all been very helpful, you sound like a bunch of great guys, looking foward to the future with you, I am glad to be back into the hobby, I have sooooo many old models to be built. Again THANKS...

[Jim Gibbons]

Welcome back to the hobby! There has been a lot of changes in 25 years. Since I don't have an airbrush, and use spray cans, the newer paints are great. If I'm not using automotive sprays, the Tamiya line of paints are great, although a bit expensive. However, the finish you'll get with careful application is hard to beat. The newly tooled models that have come out in those same 25 years will also knock your socks off; just take a look at some of the workbench photos people post. Have fun, and welcome to a great forum!

[Greg Myers]

It really isn't all that confusing. Just getting started again, stick with what you used before, it'll still work and many of us still use the old tried and true, tube glue, bottled liquid glue and spray cans for paint.Welcome back.

[charlie8575]

It's great to see you back.

Some tips for maximum happiness:

1. Find a club nearby and get active.

2. Get active on a couple of boards, especially if you have a specific interest, like racing or class 8 trucks. Check the links section here for directions.

3. HAVE FUN!

Now....on to your questions.

1. Glues- I like Testors tube and liquid glue. The tube glue as you remember, dries slowly, giving you time to work with the parts. Liquid cement is great for small parts and things with big seams, like engine blocks.

I don't use epoxy as a rule- it's a little too heavy for my tastes, although I will use it for metal-to-plastic or resin.

I've had mixed results with white glue. I may experiment with epoxy on my next window unit, although Testors does make a speically-formulated cement for clear parts, which is essentially a small amount of solvent in white glue. Those who have used it swear by it. I also plan on trying some of that myself.

For super glue, I like the inexpensive $1/3-4 tubes stuff you can get at Wal-Mart, hardware stores and big boxes like Home Depot. I just tried some Permatex superglue (item # 75187) and found it to be very nice.

2. Putty- I've never tried any of the two-part products, but I do use the Squadron white putty, and generally have good results with it, it does, however, take some doing to sand and shape. If you can find it, many people like Tamiya putty and Miliput, as well.

3. Paints- Plasti-Kote primer is the best all-around choice. You can get that at your local Car-Quest store, and some other auto parts store. I use both white, gray, and red oxide from time to time. The primer-sealer is good to use over parts molded in orange, yellow, red, green, purple, and other plastics that have colorants that ten to bleed.

I use Testors, Testors Model Master, Tamiya and Humbrol paints, and find all of them work well with proper priming, although the Humbrol seems to be less sensitive to the presence of primer.

The Testors one-coat lacquers are also very nice paints. I've used Tropical Turquoise (1957 Chevy color,) and was quite pleased with the results. These do need a clear-coat, however. I haven't tried Tamiya spray lacquers, but those that have like them. The Testors lacquer bottle paint, which I've used for engines, are superb. A word of caution: their lacquer thinner is the best way to clean the brushes. I've been told that 90% alcohol will also remove this paint. Standard lacquer thinner doesn't seem to touch Testors/Tamiya's lacquer.

Welcome back.

Charlie Larkin

[mr moto]

It's great to see you back.

Some tips for maximum happiness:

1. Find a club nearby and get active.

2. Get active on a couple of boards, especially if you have a specific interest, like racing or class 8 trucks. Check the links section here for directions.

3. HAVE FUN!

What he said right there!!! At one time or another I'll use just about any glue or filler under the sun. Right now my favorite filler for most things is straight super glue! But the bottom line is that there's more to those questions than can be discussed in this space and they get rehashed on a regular basis. If you find a club, the members will be glad to discuss any question you have for as long as it takes and in the exact situations you're facing.

The boards (like especially this one!) are great sources also and a lot of different people who know a lot of different things will get to see your questions.

Of course, number 3 is the most important. HAVE FUN! Use any kind of glue you want if you feel like it! They're only plastic models!

And, WELCOME BACK! I took years off, too, and the learning curve was steep for a while but you'll be amazed at how soon you're on top of it!