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Posted

I have done a search trying to find information on making simulated wood grain. I remember a really good thread (tutorial) months back and can't find it now. I would appreciate some suggestions about making my interior compartments come alive. I have taken the tips from this site and made massive improvements to my engine compartments, paint and overall product however; my interiors still lack that realism that I see on so many kits. I purchased some gauges (the printed type you cut out and glue in), use flocking, some bare metal foil, a few photo etched parts, but there just not "right". Maybe I am just too critical of my work. Or maybe you guys just make it look too easy (yeah thats it) :( Anyway, I could really benefit from some help (especially on the wood grain). Thanks.

Wayne

Posted (edited)

The first picture is American maple. I printed it out, measured it and cut it into strips. Then contact glued it to the back floor of my 40 sedan delivery as seen in picture 3. Picture 4 is a short piece of teak that I used to make the missing dash in a Rolls roadster. Picture 5 is a long piece of Burmese teak and picture 6 is red oak. All these and more are found with a google search for exotic wood.

Edited by my66s55
Posted

Outstanding links (which I have bookmarked). I decided to try printing off fabric also and it works great. Unfortunately when my choice was in the car, it dawned on me that it looked like "old man pajamas". But the technique works great.

When I figure out how to post pictures you'll see what I mean. Really sort of funny and it looks great from a distance. The wood looks good.

Wayne

Posted

Are you guys planning to print the veneer pictures on photo paper and incorporating the pic in your builds, or ordering pieces of the real wood? I'm confused here.

Posted

What I am planning on doing is printing out the wood on regular printer paper and using white glue as my adhesive. I thought I would come back later and try Future flooring to give it gloss. Admittedly, it is the first time I have tried this.

Posted (edited)

Wayne, spray the printout with Krylon clear acrylic coating before trying to use Future. Lightly mist it at first so it doesn't run. Just applying Future will more than likely smear it. I use Mona Lisa metal leaf adhesive. I usually put too much white glue on and the paper wrinkles on me.

Edited by my66s55
Posted

Hadn't thought of that. Thanks. That post saved some frustration, which I really need. I tried the cloth "look" on the seats and made a poor choice. The wood turned out good, but the whole thing is in the green bath and I am going to start over. I had a really good paint job on the body and goofed it up trying to put a stripe on it. it is a 1970 Camero and I hope the green stuff doesn't destroy the putty and sanding I had to do on the nose. It really didn't want to fit right and a lot of work went into it.

Posted

I usually use the wood grain self adhesive shelf liner that I get in the dollar store. Shopping around various stores came up with a whole variety of grains and colours. They come in large rolls that will last a lfetime. And for a buck or two a roll, you can't go wrong!

These shelf liners also make great marble columns, walls and floors for diaramas. Just use some water with a drop of dishsoap added to allow the piece to slide around into place, then squeegy the liquid out and let it dry before trimming it around the edges.

There are all kinds of patterns available, so your imagination can run wild!

Posted

and i have some almost see thru wood from Cigar wrappers it's Cedar smells nice if you don't smoke one might buy from a Cigar store, 'empty box's.'

as i did.

Some one gave me the liners i have out of their cigar box as they use a humidor .

a thin (very thin) veneer can be tacked down whetted and shaped over white glue or Micro Kristal Klear. that has tacked off or dryed.

if you use super glue wet the wood and capillary action will stiffen the wood and stick it to most any thing.

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