my66s55 Posted August 21, 2011 Posted August 21, 2011 Do you self a favor and pick up a dehydrator. I use mine even with acrylics. You'll never regret it. Mine is a Nesco with a temp setting that can be adjusted.
Evil Appetite Posted August 21, 2011 Posted August 21, 2011 I picked up a Paasche H airbrush yesterday from Michaels ($89.99 - 40% off = $56.00) and tried it out today. I'm working on a 1/32 Salt racer and used Rustoleum Gloss Enamel Orange. I decanted it, thinned with cheap lacquer thinner from Home Depot, and sprayed. It turned out unbelievable! I used the #5 needle and tip, just like Donn, and after I emptied the bottle it was glossy smooth. It's a little tackier, and might take a little longer to dry, but the method works great. But in regards to why I started this thread, I want to use acrylics because I will paint in the basement in the winter (separate enclosed room, exhaust fan and paint booth), and I don't feel comfortable spraying enamel in the house. But I will experiment with different acrylics and post my result here to help others if need. I wouldnt worry about fumes if you have an exhaust to the outside. Keep the basement door closed, paint, and let the fan run for a few minutes after you're done. You probably wont even have to do that if all of your over spray get's picked up by the fan. Thats my experience anyway. Beleive me, I share a house with my best friend and his daughter. He wasnt all that happy about painting in the house when I picked the hobby up again, but even he admits he cant smell a thing when I paint. As i said, close the door, let the fan run a while afterwards. Yes, get a dehydrator. I also have an American harvest by Nesco, with a temp control. Best investment since I bought all of Donn's DVD's! I let it run overnight at 105,by morning it's all good to go.
Agent G Posted August 21, 2011 Posted August 21, 2011 (edited) My dehydrator is called the Mojave. I set the body on my patio table for a few hours and voila' baked enamel finish. G Edited August 21, 2011 by AgentG
Jeff Johnston Posted August 21, 2011 Posted August 21, 2011 I should have bought the DVD at NNL EAST !! DOH.. Great paint work by Don for sure... Wierd, speaking of psi though... I get my best results at 10-15 PSI, and paint thinned just a little more than I "normal". If I use Tamiya or Wet Look clear I use the same psi. With the Urethane clear, of course I need to kick it up to 30 psi or so. I'd love to use testors bottle enamels since there are so many colors to choose from.
MikeMc Posted August 22, 2011 Posted August 22, 2011 I should have bought the DVD at NNL EAST !! DOH.. Great paint work by Don for sure... Wierd, speaking of psi though... I get my best results at 10-15 PSI, and paint thinned just a little more than I "normal". If I use Tamiya or Wet Look clear I use the same psi. With the Urethane clear, of course I need to kick it up to 30 psi or so. I'd love to use testors bottle enamels since there are so many colors to choose from. AKA the "Norbie" method....it works well also!
HondaRacer1124 Posted August 23, 2011 Posted August 23, 2011 Question for Donn if I may, Watched the video, 3rd time now ! 1- When you put the green Chevy in the drying booth, then went to the blue one. How long due you let that dry in the cabinet before you start wet sanding ? 2- Due you ( or anyone here) use a dessicant type drier on your compressors line. Cambell/Hausfeild has a combo drier/filter for $100.00 . Overkill? Hey Donn also met you @ NNL East, you were GREAT to my 11yr old. He is very encourged! Thanks so much, Eric
LoneWolf15 Posted August 23, 2011 Posted August 23, 2011 Depending on temperature and humidity when the body is painted , 1 to 3 days tops for flashout . While you are waiting , work on your interior , motor , chassis , etc . As for the second question ... My inline filters cost me $ 300 , so , no , no overkill there . Lol ! Buying good equipment is a must , never an option ! Cheap always comes back to haunt you . As for your son , that is fantastic news ! He was a pleasure to talk to and showed a real interest in what was going on at the tables . You could see the proverbial wheels turning upstairs as he stood listening to the conversations . Work side by side with him , step by step , in no time at all he will be a force to be reckoned with !
Longbox55 Posted August 24, 2011 Posted August 24, 2011 2- Due you ( or anyone here) use a dessicant type drier on your compressors line. Cambell/Hausfeild has a combo drier/filter for $100.00 . Overkill? I have one of those on the compressor in the big garage, well worth it. It's not only a drier, but also a coelescing filter, which removes both water and oil from the air. I originally got one for painting a 1:1 truck, but have a second one that's going to be installed in the small garage where my hobby room is. BTW, I'm partial to the Norbie Method myself, as it works very well for me. I've even used it painting parts for my 1:1 '55 Chevy truck.
MikeMc Posted August 24, 2011 Posted August 24, 2011 I have one of those on the compressor in the big garage, well worth it. It's not only a drier, but also a coelescing filter, which removes both water and oil from the air. I originally got one for painting a 1:1 truck, but have a second one that's going to be installed in the small garage where my hobby room is. BTW, I'm partial to the Norbie Method myself, as it works very well for me. I've even used it painting parts for my 1:1 '55 Chevy truck. I have an older Binks unit on the big compressor...I use a smaller one for the AB This is a newer style...DAD 500
sportandmiah Posted August 24, 2011 Author Posted August 24, 2011 Can someone expand in detail what this Norbie method is?
MikeMc Posted August 24, 2011 Posted August 24, 2011 Can someone expand in detail what this Norbie method is? In a nutshell...verry thin paint, very low psi, shot up close...4 to 6 "
sportandmiah Posted August 25, 2011 Author Posted August 25, 2011 What kind of paint? Acrylic? Enamel? Paint until gloss? Alot more details needed please
Tonioseven Posted August 25, 2011 Posted August 25, 2011 It definitely works for both enamels AND lacquers. I can't speak on acrylics.
sportandmiah Posted August 26, 2011 Author Posted August 26, 2011 Can someone please, IN DETAIL, explain what the Norbie method is? Im not asking for a chapter from War and Peace, but help the new and uneducated (me) understand what you are talking about.
Longbox55 Posted August 26, 2011 Posted August 26, 2011 Mike pretty much covered the basics, thin paint, low pressure, shot up close. To give you a bit more specifics on it, the paint needs to be rather thin. The paint should be approximatly the same consistancy as 2% milk. Next, the pressure needs to be set very low, around 12 PSI. Next, you need to get in close, as mentioned, 4-6 inches. You also would want to use a light touch, keep the coats thin. That's pretty much it.
Junkman Posted August 26, 2011 Posted August 26, 2011 I know the drying time of my paints exactly. It's too bloody long!
LoneWolf15 Posted August 26, 2011 Posted August 26, 2011 What type of paint and thinner are you using ? Another variable that comes into play would be temperature / humidity . The aforementioned can all have a significant affect on the length of the paint's flashout . Best part of the scenario , a few slight adjustments to your paint environment will provide an easy resolution to your problem .
Junkman Posted August 28, 2011 Posted August 28, 2011 Best part of the scenario , a few slight adjustments to your paint environment will provide an easy resolution to your problem . True. I should move to Spain.
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