Modeling Basics 101: Assembly and Decaling.

[Mr. Moparman]

Well, assembly is as simple as following the instructions although it is wise to "test fit" the parts before any gluing takes place. Decaling is different. When you have finished the model (or wherever decals are involved in the instructions) you will prepare and apply it's waterslide decals. They are very delicate and will tear easily if you don't wait until ALL of the adhesive holding them on if dissolved in the water. It is good to have some Q-Tips nearby along with a small towel to dry up excess water.

Step One: Make sure the model is free of dust or lint

Step Two: Using a small pair of scissors, clip the deacl from it's sheet.

Step Three: Dip the decal in lukewarm water for about 10 seconds.

Step Four: Apply the decal to the model, using the Q-Tip to work it around the curves.

Step Five: Dab the excess water from the model and allow the decl to dry for 24 hours before handling.

Happy Building!

[Scale-Master]

I see you are trying to be helpful, but if the info you provide is not correct, you can actually cause other people some frustration (or worse, damage to their project that costs them to repair, assuming it can be repaired by them) when your recommendations do not work. You seem to be an enthusiastic builder, but a novice nonetheless. Please allow me to provide some additional decal application info for clarification to others who may have taken this to heart. (For what it's worth, I have been working in the model decal industry for over 30 years.)

Step One: Make sure the model is free of dust or lint

That can't hurt, it is common sense advice, but not complete...

Step Two: Using a small pair of scissors, clip the deacl from it's sheet.

Again good advice, but incomplete. I often use large scissors, especially for larger elements. Small ones are useful for tiny decals, but so is an X-Acto knife.

The key is keeping them clean and sharp. I recommend dedicating at least one set of scissors to decal work ONLY. Same with a good set of tweezers, not a bad idea for the knife too. I keep a scalpel set aside myself...

Step Three: Dip the decal in lukewarm water for about 10 seconds.

Different decals release from their sheets in different time frames. Some older ones can take 5 minutes, even more. (I just yesterday used a fairly recent set that took no less than 3 minutes for any of them to release.) Some release as soon as you remove them from the water dish. There is no set time frame other than "when it has released". Temperature is not as critical as cleanliness, but warmer water will aid in pliability.

Step Four: Apply the decal to the model, using the Q-Tip to work it around the curves.

Yes, Q-tips are great decaling tools. But wait! There's so much more!

Brushes work far better as the positioning tool for me. (Again, clean and dedicated to decal work.)

Decal solvents are often required to help decals conform to compound curved shapes, or just deal with small raised or depressed details.

Different decals require different approaches. There are many different brands and types of products/chemicals to aid in decal application pertaining to getting them to conform and lay down. Decal solvents vs. decal setting solutions? An entire chapter could be written on just this facet of decal application.

Step Five: Dab the excess water from the model and allow the decl to dry for 24 hours before handling.

If you consider my suggestions, your step five is a moot point. And you are still not done with the decaling process... I do not have the time today to explain what has already been published and discussed about proper decal application, but I think it is important to offer sound advice, not just string a bunch of words together compiled from a little experience and call it Modeling Basics 101.

If you still wish to offer advice, I think it would help if you used spell check. Misspelling (in different ways) the subject of your tutorial does not make it come across too well. But I applaud your enthusiasm.

[Steve Keck]

I would like to expand on Scale-Master's comments while he is away doing master-like things. Hopefully I won't step on his toes. They're big toes; thus his shoes are hard to fill. Hopefully we can have a little humor here?

Certainly dust and lint should not be present but neither should any other foreign matter such as grease or oils. Wash and dry the model to remove finger prints that contain oil.

One of my dedicated brushes is a small, stiff chisel pointed brush for working the decal into crevices and panel lines.

Wet Q-tips can be used to roll the water and air bubbles out from under the decal minimizing the risk of tearing.

Dry Q-tips can be used to wick away water. So can the edge of a paper towel.

I use a strip of paper towel laid over the wet decal and anchored with a finger awayfrom it to remove excess water before final positioning. I've also used the wet backing paper to squeegee excess water.

Heat from a low volume hair drier may be enough to persuade the decal to nestle down without the need for solvent/setting solutions.

[crazyjim]

Cruz is building a gorgeous '62 T-Bird and he says you need to polish the body out before adding decals.

Edited July 1, 2011 by crazyjim

[Scale-Master]

  On 7/1/2011 at 7:31 PM, crazyjim said:

Cruz is building a gorgeous '62 T-Bird and he says you need to polish the body out before adding decals.

That partly depends on the finish you achieve while painting...

The model I decaled yesterday for example went from paint being applied to decals being applied in 24 hours with no surface treatment.

But if you are going to polish it out, it is easier to do so prior to decal application.

And I needed to use both decal solvent and the hair dryer on some of those decals...

[diymirage]

what i like doing is adding a drop of dish soap to the water to help the decal slide nicely

if im worried about it sliding on the model OR if im placing a larger decal i will also grab a brush and wet the model where the decal will go with the same water i used to loosen the decal from its backing

[ra7c7er]

As others have said we know you are trying to be helpful but seriously I don't think you have the experience to be writing this stuff. Using a Q-tip can leave lint stuck on or under your decal. And your steps are not the only way much less the best way. A good teacher will lay out several different ways of doing something and let the student, in this case the builder decided which works best for them not just what the teacher deems is the right way. I applaud what you are trying to do but I think you need to step back and think harder about your posts and their content.

[Chas SCR]

As Mark and Steve is helping with the decale stuff, Let me help on putting the model together with very little trouble that I learn from them on here and also talking to them at the GSL shows.

First make sure what parts can be put together before painting and such as this helps out so if you use CA clue it does not fog up the clear on you. Also for the harder parts it is better to take epoxy and work with this and do the work as it will dry clear. Then when putting stuff together also look for a spot that you will not be able to see the connecting points of where you use either glue or epoxy. This will make a nicer looking model in the end and a clean look.

Tools: use a lot of tooth picks and old xacto blades. This helps to just put the right enuff glue or epoxy where you need it and not to much. Also get a lot of old CD or DVD's that are no good and us them to put the epoxy and glue on. This keeps areas looking good to work with and clean. Also pick up some foam safe insta-set this is for the CA glue and just shoot this on after putting the glue on in the spots. This will also help the glue to not fog up the areas and keep it more clear when it drys.

Just a little help.

Chas Cochran

Deco Rides USA 1/24th Scale

Edited July 7, 2011 by Chas SCR

[Harry P.]

  On 6/30/2011 at 11:15 PM, Mississippi Resins said:

Step Two: Using a small pair of scissors, clip the deacl from it's sheet.

I find it far easier to lay the decal sheet on my cutting mat and cut the decal out with my X-acto. I get much better control that way rather than trying to navigate around the decal with scissors.