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Posted (edited)

Thank you very much, guys. I scratch build yet another detail and that is the AC condenser (I believe it is, correct me if I´m wrong). I bended a copper wire 1mm, cut a piece of mesh that was supposed to go to the grill (will use something else) and crafted the frame out of plastic sheets.

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I also enlarged the radiator cowling with a help of milliput putty. Here is the radiator with the condenser and bigger cowling inserted in the frame with the engine behind. The belts are back in place.

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More to come in second...

Edited by truckabilly
Posted

I plumbed the frame a bit. It is not meant to copy the real diagram. It is just a few wires here and there to make it look like real. Note the height control valve above the rear axle. It is not very well visible in these pictures but the thiner line representing the electric cable running from the rear lights is made of a string or thread from the sweets hanging on the christmas tree. Will try to take a better pic next time.

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Posted

This is way impressive! Where do you learn to plumb and weather a truck like that? I like my stuff, but I get blown out of the water when I see stuff like this! Great job Jarda.

Posted

I have taken a few close ups of the christmas candies string that used for plumbing the frame. The unpainted ends show the original color. The structure of the thread is well visible.

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I am just wondering if I can get something like this when Christmas is over. The idea came too late, the sweets were already eaten by my kids and papers with strings thrown away. I saved just a few pieces.

Posted

A bit of a progress again. I connected the radiator to the engine. But first I made a little change to the shroud surface. The milliput putty that I used to reshape the shroud made a nice smooth surface. But it wasn´t the right thing for a laminate part. So, I applied a paper adhesive tape with a rougher surface and painted it black. Then I added the bolts and a drain tube.

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The engine - radiator joint is still a bit flexible. I hope it helps to position the assembly to the frame correctly.

Posted

Hey guys, I need a little help with my tires. It might have been discussed here already but I can´t find the thread. I think that the front super singles of Bill Signs (and CAN DO for that matter) are much too big for the 1/25 scale. I know that they were originally used on a car in 1/16 scale or something like that. I wonder if the Italeri super singles are closer to reality than those of RoG. I don´t think the difference in diameter between the front super singles and rear dual drives should be that big.

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What do you guys think about it? Any ideas or help appreciated.

Posted

Jarda,

The engine detail looks great!! Very impressive indeed. As for the front tyres and wheels these always looked odd to me. I have a plan to build this kit sometime in the future and will use the KFS wide wheels and tyres.

Dave

Posted

I guess I will use the Italeri trailer tires as these are a bit closer to the real dimensions. The rims can be modified.

Meanwhile I worked on the suction pipes and exhaust tubing as the ones from the kit don´t fit no more. Everything is yet to be painted but I took these pictures for better contrast.

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All the tubing is made of Tamyia 5mm plastic rod and Evergreen 4.8mm tube. I bended the elbows above a candle and added thin stripes to make the elbow details. Bending the rod above the flame didn´t go very smooth but finally I got what I wanted. I hope it looks okay when painted.

Posted

Jarda

If you thread the styrene tube onto some aluminium rod it bends better and holds the corners in shape, I find using a flame a little to harsh for bending unless it is solid tube

Nice job on the detail for the bends, I like the result, just like the real deal

Posted

Thank you Tim and Tony. The bended part is actually a solid styrene rod. I wouldn´t even try to bend a tube on a flame. The bends were not perfect, I had to smooth the shape with a file and sandpaper. And, to be honest, they are not perfectly identical. Can´t wait to paint the whole tubing.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

There is a thread on this forum about a bad quality of the reissued Bill Signs chrome parts. I thought mine were okay but then I found this. Even though the trees were wrapped in the bags the surface is damaged. The mirror brackets have excesive plastic around and it will leave a bad mark after I cut it off. Also, the mirrors have a different set up from the real unit 402 of the Bill Signs fleet.

So, it´s just a little more work with a knife and glue and alclad paint. That´s what model building is about, isn´t it?

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Posted

There is a thread on this forum about a bad quality of the reissued Bill Signs chrome parts. I thought mine were okay but then I found this. Even though the trees were wrapped in the bags the surface is damaged. The mirror brackets have excesive plastic around and it will leave a bad mark after I cut it off. Also, the mirrors have a different set up from the real unit 402 of the Bill Signs fleet.

So, it´s just a little more work with a knife and glue and alclad paint. That´s what model building is about, isn´t it?

I agree with the modeling part, but for the price s they're asking for these kits, quality should be way better. I buy fully finished 1:18 scale cars for not a lot more and the finish is near perfection. So either they lower the prices or give better quality kits. The others can do it and some for a lot less.

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Clydes II is back again. The cab & hood is polished and decals applied. This is just a rough mock-up with no try for a correct alignment. The chrome parts are in various stages of progress. Some are ready to put on the model, some need a bit of touch up, some deserve a complete redo. But I´ve done that already and they do not look any better. Maybe this is where the border line for my abilities is set.

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You might have noticed that one of the front wheels centre is open. That´s how the real truck looks in the picture.

Jarda

Edited by truckabilly

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