Mooneyzs Posted September 19, 2011 Posted September 19, 2011 Thanks john for looking at my pain staking task that has caused me to have numb finger tips.. To shape them was Dremel (cut off discs, sanding drums (course and fine grit), Jeweler's files, and sand paper) and A LOT of PATIENCE.... more than I wanted to put into it. LOL I think I spent over 10-12hrs on them in just cutting and shaping and checking hole alignment. Hey Bart!! Great work on the progress you are making. You did some great work on the 4 Link mounts. They are beautiful and turned out great. I can totally relate with you on all of the hours it took to make. You definitely have to have patience when you do stuff like this. The hard work paid off on this. I did the same thing when it came to building my headers for my funny car. and your right your finger tips get the best of it. Keep up the great work.
my80malibu Posted September 19, 2011 Posted September 19, 2011 Question, Do you Drag Car builders copy those mounting Bracket plates from a pattern. or are they from Memory or just thought up?
eviltwincustoms Posted September 20, 2011 Author Posted September 20, 2011 My80malibu.... a little of both. I use a lot of reference photos and scan in 1/24scale stuff and resize print out and use as a templates. Just depends on what is needed.
eviltwincustoms Posted September 21, 2011 Author Posted September 21, 2011 (edited) Thought I would post up some progress pics on the drivers door. Getting ready to mount it, just have to buy some some Steel rod since it is much more durable and wont bend easily when mounting and taking off the doors. I still have to build out the top of the door and add the functional latch lever and my functioning door mechanism to lock and unlock the door.... I have it all thought out, just need to make it happen. Here are some pics based off of a pro mod door that I have been modeling after. The final pic is so you can see just how the door mates up with the Firewall and closes everything off really nicely. one of the things about using Resin... is the darn thickness I hate that, so I thinned the door edges down to be more realistic. (left is original thickness... one on the right is thinned down) Pic of the inner door panel with the weight savings, and I will painting back behind a black and putting a fiber inside the door panel. With the door panel on. Edited September 21, 2011 by eviltwincustoms
tyrone Posted September 21, 2011 Posted September 21, 2011 SUPER NICE WORK!!! BART I like how you thinned out the inner door skins, I do that to mine also, don't stop the awesome updates, I'm learning, and enjoying this bad boy come together...
Prostreet Posted September 22, 2011 Posted September 22, 2011 Doors look great bart, That's alot of sanding to thin the doors out. Definitely makes them look better.
eviltwincustoms Posted September 22, 2011 Author Posted September 22, 2011 Doors look great bart, That's alot of sanding to thin the doors out. Definitely makes them look better. Thanks everyone for the complements... Joe... the great thing about using a dremel with a sanding drum, is it makes sanding painless with resin. You just have to be extremely cautious, because one slip and you will work right through the material and it will look like swiss cheese!.
stump Posted September 22, 2011 Posted September 22, 2011 Holy schmolly.......FANtastic work Bart. The 4-link looks absolutely spot on, and well worth all those hours spent grinding, sanding, shaping. Beautiful. Great work on the door too...this is something I'll be referring to when the time comes to start mine, thank you.
W-409 Posted September 22, 2011 Posted September 22, 2011 Great project going! That frame looks really good, and I like how you did the doors. Engine looks really nice also, this topic is really interesting. Can't wait to see more. Now it looks like we got lots of Pro Modified projects going on, well, PM is a great group.
Mooneyzs Posted September 22, 2011 Posted September 22, 2011 Bart Awesome work on the doors. looking forward to seeing your work on the hindges. I am going to be taking some notes. Love the work you are doing, its turning out fantastic. I have a 1/16 scale Pro Mod build I am somewhat starting to plan for but won't quite get to it until I finish a couple of builds I have going and what I have planned after my 1/16th funny car. I will be using your work as reference.
eviltwincustoms Posted September 25, 2011 Author Posted September 25, 2011 Here is an update on the Drivers door, hung and in its resting place. Now on to the mechanics in the door and then get the latch mounted to the chassis.
Prostreet Posted September 25, 2011 Posted September 25, 2011 Nice work Bart. I'm learning so much from your build.
Mooneyzs Posted September 25, 2011 Posted September 25, 2011 Bart you are doing some great work man. Those hinges are looking Killer. I do have to ask did you make them out of plastic or brass? Can't wait to see your next progress update. Keep up the great work.
eviltwincustoms Posted September 25, 2011 Author Posted September 25, 2011 (edited) Ewaskew, Prostreet and Tyrone, thank you all for the complements it is greatly appreciated. Any time that I can inspire or help someone step it up that next notch based on my work I feel blessed. Prostreet, anytime that I can help just ping me and I will do my best. Bart you are doing some great work man. Those hinges are looking Killer. I do have to ask did you make them out of plastic or brass? Can't wait to see your next progress update. Keep up the great work. Thanks Chris for the complement on the hinges. So the hanger on the chassis is Piano Wire (steel rod .039") bent in a 90 degree angle. Then the hinge on the door is styrene .080" styrene rod, drilled out with a .039 drill bit. Then took some .040 styrene rod and welded it to the .080 tube I made. Drill my holes into the door and insert and weld to the door, then put a 3rd leg from the .080 tub out to the side of the door. Very sold for being styrene! Edited September 25, 2011 by eviltwincustoms
Mooneyzs Posted September 25, 2011 Posted September 25, 2011 Bart... thank you for explaining how you did it. The work is very nice and taking notes for my planned pro mod build. trying to find the best way to do hinges for it. Very nice work with the styrene. So I am assuming that with the piano wire you are using epoxy to glue the 90 degree bent rod into the styrene chassis??
Nitrozilla Posted September 26, 2011 Posted September 26, 2011 I just can't stop being impressed Bart. Patience pays, doesn't it? Keep Rockin' It !!
eviltwincustoms Posted September 26, 2011 Author Posted September 26, 2011 Bart... thank you for explaining how you did it. The work is very nice and taking notes for my planned pro mod build. trying to find the best way to do hinges for it. Very nice work with the styrene. So I am assuming that with the piano wire you are using epoxy to glue the 90 degree bent rod into the styrene chassis?? Welcome any time Chris! Ya I will probably use Epoxy due to it having a longer curing time. CA is just to quick, unless I head over to the hobby store and get the slow curing CA glue. I just can't stop being impressed Bart. Patience pays, doesn't it? Keep Rockin' It !! Thanks Joe! I think patience is a virtue and wonder if I have enough of it at times.
Randy D Posted September 26, 2011 Posted September 26, 2011 (edited) The hinges look great Bart, heck, the whole thing is looking sweet!!! Randy Edited September 27, 2011 by Randy D
Mooneyzs Posted September 26, 2011 Posted September 26, 2011 Welcome any time Chris! Ya I will probably use Epoxy due to it having a longer curing time. CA is just to quick, unless I head over to the hobby store and get the slow curing CA glue. Thanks Bart, Appreciate it
eviltwincustoms Posted September 28, 2011 Author Posted September 28, 2011 Thanks Bart, Appreciate it No Problem Chris... any time I can help out! spot on job, bart. this should really set the bar at a new height. can't wait to see it progress. Thanks Dave, that means a lot coming from someone that just finished a 1/8th scale monster build!
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