Diesel Gypsy Posted October 1, 2011 Posted October 1, 2011 (edited) Hey guys. Have you any suggestions as to how I can fix this ? I inadvertently squeezed too hard when I was foiling. Now I'm foiled I've tried "butt joining" plastic strip but I can't get a strong enough join, even with Super-glu. Edited November 17, 2011 by Diesel Gypsy
spkgibson Posted October 1, 2011 Posted October 1, 2011 If you still have the original part thats missing use some Locktite superglue, a touch of putty, sand then foil it, It will be totally hidden by the foil, I busted a vent post in half, And did the same thing, Those Revell 69 Nova's are weak in that area, Thats an easy fix just take your time, Nice paint ,And color combo.
djway3474 Posted October 1, 2011 Posted October 1, 2011 Cut an S joint into each part of the model. Next cut a piece of plastic that you have preshaped with the same S joint at each end. This creats a semi locking joint at each end, or at least joints with much more surface area.
Diesel Gypsy Posted October 4, 2011 Author Posted October 4, 2011 Hey guys. Thanks for the advice, all dually noted. I’ll dig out the broken part, I’m sure I’ve got it somewhere & try your fix Steve. Failing that I’ll give your technique a go Dwayne. Thank you for your time.
Alyn Posted October 4, 2011 Posted October 4, 2011 You can also try bonding a strip to the clear windshield in the appropriate location using clear parts cement, or judicious specs of epoxy.
Jon Cole Posted October 4, 2011 Posted October 4, 2011 Back the broken piece with a strip of thin plastic (try a 'FOR SALE' sign) cut to the same width, but sticks out about 1/8 at each end. Be sure to scuff the plastic strip for better adhesion. Now when you attach the broken part back into position, there is more surface to glue, and it will be a little stronger. Good luck!
Diesel Gypsy Posted October 4, 2011 Author Posted October 4, 2011 Two more good ideas. Thank you gents.
Dr. Cranky Posted October 4, 2011 Posted October 4, 2011 You can probably pin the part in by drilling the posts and using a small piece of wire, then use filler, and then re BMF. Nice build, it's definitely worth to save it.
Diesel Gypsy Posted October 5, 2011 Author Posted October 5, 2011 (edited) Thats another good fix Virgil. You have more faith in my sausage fingers & dexterity than I do but it would surly make for a strong join. Thank you. Edited October 5, 2011 by Diesel Gypsy
Dr. Cranky Posted October 5, 2011 Posted October 5, 2011 Hey, I am a member of the sausage finger club too, so I know how it is. LOL!
charlie8575 Posted October 5, 2011 Posted October 5, 2011 I think Jon's solution might be the most workable of the bunch, although Steve's would probably function well, too. If you decide to attach the window first, I would suggest using something like canopy glue for the entire assembly to avoid marring. I do agree with Steve and the others- pretty car that's worth getting together right. Charlie
62rebel Posted October 5, 2011 Posted October 5, 2011 when i built my replica t-top mustang II i added prebent sections of paper clip wire (straightened and cut to length) where i thought extra strength would be needed to support the extra weight and offset the loss of rigidity from cutting out the t-tops. i'd put a piece of wire on the backside of each "A" pillar on that model; super glue works best BUT beware of that stuff fogging chrome and clear parts. epoxy would be stronger but it can be fussy and take a long time to set up. i'm a charter member of the ten-thumbs club also.
Sixx Posted October 5, 2011 Posted October 5, 2011 Hey, I am a member of the sausage finger club too, so I know how it is. LOL! Sausage fingers????? Does that go along with...big monkey fingers!? or gorilla fists? mmmmm...chicken fingers
Darin Bastedo Posted October 6, 2011 Posted October 6, 2011 since you alredy have it painted and everything, and the part will be foiled, installl the glass first, and wait for it to cure fully, the epoxy in the boken piece and when that has cures apply tour favorate putty with a tooth pick, and lightly sand the joint, refoil and you are done.
Diesel Gypsy Posted October 7, 2011 Author Posted October 7, 2011 Hey guys. Thank you all for your comments & suggestions. I'm not sure which technique I'll go with yet. I need to sit down, model in hand & go through the thread before I make a decision. Many thanks.
Diesel Gypsy Posted November 17, 2011 Author Posted November 17, 2011 (edited) Firstly I'd like to thank all of you who posted here for you help & inspiration in helping me fix my Impala. I glued the windscrean in with canopy glue & fabricated a new pillar with plastic strip & filler. Careful sanding & shaping yielded a fairley good match but the surface remained rough. Some Mr Surfacer sanded with a very fine sanding stick gave me the finish I required. A quick flick over with the BMF & the job was done. Sure, its not a contest model, but it has gone from lame duck on the shelf of doom to something that can grace the model cabinet. Edited November 17, 2011 by Diesel Gypsy
kennb Posted November 17, 2011 Posted November 17, 2011 Cant even tell that there was a problem....Looks great now. Great save KennB
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