Foxer Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 Very interesting building methods I seeing here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DANB Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 This is all just so awsome, i want to see more! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carchub Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 Wow those headers look great! What kind of salt do you use? My attempts at salt rusting haven't much worked out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Cranky Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 Keep it going, Alyn! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alyn Posted February 19, 2012 Author Share Posted February 19, 2012 Wow those headers look great! What kind of salt do you use? My attempts at salt rusting haven't much worked out... thank you all for your interest. Roland, I use Morton's coarse Kosher salt. This car was my first attempt after seeing some of Cranky's examples.At first, I practiced with common table salt. But then I looked at the granules under a magnifying glass and noticed each one was a symmetrical cube. Thinking that things don't usually rust in perfect square patches, I looked at some other types of salt. The coarse Kosher salt has a more random, jagged shape. However, for most of what I do, the granules are a bit large, so I grind the salt down in a mortar and pestle to a finer consistency. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carchub Posted February 19, 2012 Share Posted February 19, 2012 Alright, thanks Alyn! Yeah I used table salt, and it would usually leave salt behind on the paint...I'll try grinding it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alyn Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 Just flipped to the last page of the current Hot Rod magazine and there's a pic of the car that inspired my 40 Ford; Rocky's Rat. I first saw this car at the KKOA Lead Sled Spectacular in Salina Kansas. It's the first rat rod I've seen that I would actually like to own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alyn Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 (edited) Here's a few shots of what I did to make my car as grungy as the 38 Special. I first shot some Tamiya gold on the body sides and grille shell for the lettering and curved stripe. The headlight buckets didn't need the gold, but since they are part of the grille shell, it was easier to paint them rather than mask. After the gold had plenty of time to dry, the stripe was masked off. Dry transfers were used for the lettering. This car is two tone, so dark green was applied over the masked details on the sides and grille shell.You can see by the reflection on the door that this paint job isn't the shiniest one on the block. As with the 38 Special, the goal was the look of an amateur finish that had been applied in someones driveway. It's a little difficult to see in this shot, but the green and gold has been masked off along the sides )and grille shell). Ruddy brown primer was applied as a base for weathering. This was followed up with some other shades of brown dabbed on randomly with a piece of foam(not in the picture). After sprinkling some kosher salt on the roof and trunk, I added a coat or two of black primer. This picture shows the body after most of the salt had been removed. After knocking of some rough paint edges with 400 grit paper, I added more salt and laid on the final color. By the way, this as well as all the preceding layers of paint are all rattle can. Look at some of Cranky's work and you'll learn that there are much better paints to use for this process, but I happened to have these on hand. After once again removing the salt and then smoothing out some of the rougher edges of paint, this is what I ended up with. The striping effect on the roof was purposeful. Sometimes older car paint will weather in an uneven pattern as a result of an uneven application of the original paint. Edited March 9, 2012 by Alyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jantrix Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 Yeah! I'm diggin it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alyn Posted March 10, 2012 Author Share Posted March 10, 2012 Yeah! I'm diggin it! Thanks, Rob. Glad you took a peek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Most Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Haven't seen the 1:1 car until just now... but I must say your model looks a lot better to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alyn Posted March 10, 2012 Author Share Posted March 10, 2012 Thanks, Chuck, but the real one holds more people Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joker Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 Fabrication eye candy for us Stevens Intl. sanding sticks and riffle file fans. Thanks for the updates..not a fan of Rats(not that there's anything wrong with it) but of quality fab work. James aka Joker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Zombie Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 Alyn, update! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmvw guy Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 Nice progress, have'nt seen this in a while. This is a great look! I really like the flathead and all the detail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr. Cranky Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 Love it, Alyn, looking real good. Some wonderful effects with pitting and chipping too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alyn Posted July 8, 2012 Author Share Posted July 8, 2012 Rising from the grave. 'bout time to get this WIP put to bed. Here's a part that didn't make it into production. Alot of rat rods have the big and tall motor look. With that in mind, I thought about adding an air box/air filter on top of the carbs. The basic shape was made from scrap styrene C-channel and flat card stock. The box was covered with .005" aluminum with faux rivets. The finished part just didn't quite do it for me; didn't look squared up, and the metal seams didn't look right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alyn Posted July 8, 2012 Author Share Posted July 8, 2012 A few more details for the engine compartment. One of the easier things to scratch build; hydraulic master cylinders. These consist of three different sizes of round styrene rod. After mounting the parts on a strip of flat styrene to serve as a flange, some Metal Masters silver aluminum plate and matte black finished them off. A short strip of square styrene rod was used for a fuel block with brass tubing for outlet fittings. The Revell kit comes with a voltage regulator. I added an aluminum base and some wiring to finish it off. After sizing up some small diameter brass rod for radiator supports, this pretty much wrapped up the engine compartment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alyn Posted July 8, 2012 Author Share Posted July 8, 2012 The center of the drive shaft was replaced with aluminum tube, capped off with the original u-jointed ends. Some Model Masters magnesium followed with a darker wash helped give this part a bit more character. Here's tha chassis almost finished; only lacking the rear suspension arms and plumbing. The base paint is hardware store black primer over a salted ruddy primer base. This was followed up with some various earth tone chalk powder. I added straps for the gas tank and scratched it up a bit in the direction of travel. Wheels are from the Revell 67 Chevelle pro street kit. I drilled out the Chevy emblems and then stripped the kit chrome. The finish is craft store spray chrome. It tones down enough to look a lot like polished aluminum. Not shown in the picture, I later added lug nuts and valve stems. Some homemade resin finned drums were added to the front wheels along with some spare backing plates (not shown) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JunkPile Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 You're up kinda late for your age aren't you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alyn Posted July 8, 2012 Author Share Posted July 8, 2012 Rockin' to Kid Rock in the headphones and catching up on a way-behind WIP. Life is Good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Setzer Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 you have done Great Work on this build! I have followed it from the first post! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan S. Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 Its looking really good Alyn! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CemetaryAngel81 Posted July 8, 2012 Share Posted July 8, 2012 Looks just about right! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alyn Posted July 15, 2012 Author Share Posted July 15, 2012 One final detail. I stumbled across these picture hanging nails at a local dollar store. The ribbed spacers looked promising for some modeling use, so I snatched them up. I've since seen the same nails at some hardware stores. The other item is of course, a piece of taillight sprue. I cut a small section of the clear red plastic and chucked it up in a Dremel. Before turning on the Dremel, it was used as a vice to hold the plastic while an X-acto knife was used to whittle out the rough shape of a bullet taillight. Then, the Dremel and some increasingly finer grits of sandpaper was used for final shaping and polishing. The nail spacer was painted with some bright silver and the two pieces were glued together. Here's the result; Caddy taillights and she's done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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