Nitrozilla Posted January 10, 2012 Author Posted January 10, 2012 All kinds of neato progress this time around. The battery box is history and, right or wrong, everything has been wired to the best of my ability. Also in place are the cockpit debris panels, front stabilizer links, belt decal and valve cover breather tubes. Next comes tie rod ends, wheelie bars, tires and a ton of touch up. See y'all then....
brett Posted January 10, 2012 Posted January 10, 2012 Wow Joe ! I scrolled down to get hit in the face with a money shot This is really coming together great, keep it up man.
Truck parts Posted January 11, 2012 Posted January 11, 2012 Joe, I love what you have done so far,and the great detail is outstanding.
Nitrozilla Posted January 12, 2012 Author Posted January 12, 2012 Brett & Gordon, and all....Thanx for keeping up. So glad this is getting such a positive response. Like the tag says, the chassis is at 99%. I added the tie rods and steering link today. Just a few more details like wheelie bars and touch up. The headers are only placed on the heads for illustrative purposes. They will be installed once I'm satisfied with how they clear the body and whether I need to cut out the body for clearance. The wheelie bars are next to last because I wanted the back tires on permanently first. I already know the upper bar brace needs modifying due to the brake lines interfering with normal installation. Next comes final fitment of the tinwork which, here again, needs a little more modification to clear the breather tubes. Somewhere in all of that will come the start of body paint. I probably could have started sooner but didn't want to mess around with an after paint mod for header cutouts. Don't touch that dial, err uh, remote, ummm, mouse, whatever.......
Scale-Master Posted January 12, 2012 Posted January 12, 2012 (edited) Since you had asked for advice before... If it's not too late, maybe you can straighten out those injectors so they aren't so skewed to the left. You are adjusting other parts... That really sticks out, but on the plus side it does distract the eye from the the oversized beading, but I doubt that was your intent(?). Also if it is not too late, you might consider making the steering rod a bit smaller diameter than the frame is, more like a real car. Nice to see you took my advice and removed the battery... Edited January 12, 2012 by Scale-Master
Nitrozilla Posted January 12, 2012 Author Posted January 12, 2012 It was mentioned previously that the injectors were going to be corrected "with a hammer and chisel if necessary". On the other hand, I was unhappy from the get go with the steering link and the tie rod. I just didn't mention it. I corrected the injectors this evening. It's actually the engine that's crooked, but it's only visible at it's highest point. I've made a replacement tie rod and will rip out the steering link tomorrow. Pics to follow.
Nitrozilla Posted January 13, 2012 Author Posted January 13, 2012 (edited) The following corrections have been made: Tie rod and steering link replaced using piano wire and the injectors have been properly aligned. Some minor damage occured to the paint on the injector base, but it's just one more thing to touch up. The air scoop is on for reference only due to the fact that it will be painted to match the car with jet skin / panel / rivets with peel away main body color. On to the final tinwork and body prep. Edited January 13, 2012 by Batzilla
Mister Twister Posted January 13, 2012 Posted January 13, 2012 Looks like a beast Joe....Looks good...Keep at it!
vintagedragfan Posted January 13, 2012 Posted January 13, 2012 looks like you are bout to get her whipped Zilla! looking super!
John Teresi Posted January 13, 2012 Posted January 13, 2012 Joe.....I really think this build looks terrific.......and it shows that you put your heart and soul into this build.......congrt`s buddy.
Dr. Cranky Posted January 13, 2012 Posted January 13, 2012 That engine is a work of art, the whole thing is EYE-POPPING good!
Nitrozilla Posted January 14, 2012 Author Posted January 14, 2012 Glad y'all approve and thanks a whole lot. It's been a battle. Speaking of battles, the tinwork is as good as it's going to get, stance-wise. Made modifications to allow room for breathers, steering link, magneto et al. Also got the humps down where the sheet plastic was laid in between the hood and the trunk. I'll get it shot tomorrow and see how it looks. 'Til then, enjoy and thank you for your support ))))))
brett Posted January 14, 2012 Posted January 14, 2012 WOW!!!!......can`t wait to see paint. Me either John I really like this one! Looking super! I agree Roger, I think it's Joes best work yet
Scale-Master Posted January 14, 2012 Posted January 14, 2012 I agree Roger, I think it's Joes best work yet Be that as it may, your slicks are on backwards Joe. At least the one on the right is, can't tell for sure about the left.
Nitrozilla Posted January 14, 2012 Author Posted January 14, 2012 Be that as it may, your slicks are on backwards Joe. At least the one on the right is, can't tell for sure about the left. My research of 1:1 launches show the slicks wrinkled at the front. That's how they were mounted on the wheels and that's how they were installed. And yes, even though I knew I was right, I double checked it just now.
Scale-Master Posted January 14, 2012 Posted January 14, 2012 (edited) No Joe, that is incorrect. Not sure how you are doing your research, but the wrinkles are clearly going the wrong way. You can say they look correct, (maybe they do to you) like the rest of the car, (I noticed you didn’t provide a photo to make your point either), but that does not change the facts. Doesn't "detailing" something imply doing it accurately too? The reality is the way the rim turns and "loads" the sidewall the wrinkles must spiral out from the rim towards the tread in the opposite direction of the rotation of the wheel due to the resistance of the tire on the ground. Simple physics, that action... At least here on earth. But you can claim you are building it with the transmission in reverse if you want a legitimate excuse. No need to make stuff up to justify little mistakes, some of us know how real cars work and are glad to help. Hopefully it is not too late to swap the left and right rears, assuming they are installed the same way? Edited January 14, 2012 by Scale-Master
Scale-Master Posted January 14, 2012 Posted January 14, 2012 (edited) My research of 1:1 launches show the slicks wrinkled at the front. That's how they were mounted on the wheels and that's how they were installed. And yes, even though I knew I was right, I double checked it just now. And just to clarify, wrinkle walls are not mounted with wrinkles. Wrinkles are a byproduct of the soft side wall dealing with the forces being generated through them. If you saw one mounted on a rim but off a car, or even on a car, but jacked up off the ground, it would not be wrinkled like the model is. I really would like to see the research you have (since you clearly state how you are right), that shows the wrinkles like you installed them, as I am sure others would too, in the interest of providing accurate reference material. I'm always trying to learn... Edited January 14, 2012 by Scale-Master
Uncle Keith Posted January 14, 2012 Posted January 14, 2012 Hi! guys, Here's a reference pic I have on file. Hope this helps settle the debate. Have A Great Day!
Nitrozilla Posted January 14, 2012 Author Posted January 14, 2012 Hi! guys, Here's a reference pic I have on file. Hope this helps settle the debate. Have A Great Day! Thanx Keith. I was going to get some pics off of Google, but you saved me the trouble. That is how mine are rotating.
Scale-Master Posted January 14, 2012 Posted January 14, 2012 (edited) Thanx Keith. I was going to get some pics off of Google, but you saved me the trouble. That is how mine are rotating. Heavy sigh.... No Joe, it is absolutely positively not the way yours are installed. Seriously, can you not see that in the photo? Saying they are doesn't make them match the photos of them. If you don't want to fix it, that is fine, just don't claim things that aren't correct are. Other builders learn from what is posted here, in this forum, I think it is our duty to provide correct information, not mis-information and not excuses for incorrect choices. Why someone would ask for advice to build accurately then argue in the face of facts and photos to justify building it wrong amazes me. Keith's post shows exactly what I described for a car be propelled forward. (Thanks Keith.) Edited January 14, 2012 by Scale-Master
Nitrozilla Posted January 14, 2012 Author Posted January 14, 2012 We're gonna' try this one more time. Also, Dave, it was because I saw you post elsewhere about wrinkle wall slicks being wrong on a car without a driver that I put one in this ride to begin with. So thank you for that. I agree 100%. So, at risk of three different types of damage to the wheels, brakes and rear end, I was lucky enuff to get them apart after firm but gentle twisting and have reversed them. PLEASE tell me it looks right now. Gotta keep all of the Batzilla Fan Club members happy faced.
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