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Posted

I try to follow the "treat every part as if it were a model unto itself" credo, which to me means make each individual part which comprises a completed model as nice as you reasonably can. If there are mold seams on it which aren't on the 1:1 part, remove them. If the part would look better finished after removing it from the sprue, do just that. Some tiny parts (say the ignition coil in Revell's '69 Camaro kits) are difficult to do this way, but you can always figure out a way to make it work, or touch it up in a way that isn't noticeable (like repainting the entire bottom end of the coil) after the part is finish mounted. I can think of no parts other than a cast iron type cast exhaust manifold which would look more realistic with the mold seam left in place, and that's assuming the part was laid out such that the scale mold seam matched the 1:1 part's mold seam. :blink:

That's actually the first good arguement I've ever heard against the 'paint it on the sprue' technique. B) Usually when someone tells me I shouldn't paint parts on the sprue, and I ask why, the answer I get is "You just shouldn't". :lol:

Of course there are always exceptions, but for me, getting in and dealing with mold lines/flash is pretty easy with a piece of sandpaper folded back on itself or a thin emery board. I also like leaving those small, fiddly bits on the sprue because it reduces the chance of me losing them while prepping or painting them loose. There are times when it just simply isn't practical, or even possible, but in most cases the method works very well for me.

Posted

It just goes to show that there are different approaches and I believe that whatever keeps you building and finishing models is more than fine.

Posted

Another secret superstition I have,If I rework a purchased glue bomb .Say bought at yard sale or ebay,I always leave one piece the original artist painted as is.Help me,please.I need help....

Posted

if i come forward and admit on half of the models the underside of the hood is not painted (heck, not even primered on most) would you guys join me and admit it too ?

come on, dont leave me hanging

Posted

if i come forward and admit on half of the models the underside of the hood is not painted (heck, not even primered on most) would you guys join me and admit it too ?

come on, dont leave me hanging

I may have... cough, cough... one or two that fit that description...

Posted

Sooooo ! How does it feel swingin' in the

breeze up there ? Lol !

Go to one IPMS show without the hood completely painted .... Down in flames ya go ! Lesson learned long ago and far away !

The Old Man

Posted

I need to learn calligraphy so I can do treasure maps on the underside of 'trunk' areas with an 'X' marking the spot. Maybe take something completely unrelated attached to the underside.

Posted

That's actually the first good arguement I've ever heard against the 'paint it on the sprue' technique. B) Usually when someone tells me I shouldn't paint parts on the sprue, and I ask why, the answer I get is "You just shouldn't". :lol:

Of course there are always exceptions, but for me, getting in and dealing with mold lines/flash is pretty easy with a piece of sandpaper folded back on itself or a thin emery board. I also like leaving those small, fiddly bits on the sprue because it reduces the chance of me losing them while prepping or painting them loose. There are times when it just simply isn't practical, or even possible, but in most cases the method works very well for me.

This kind of falls in line with the one major problem of model kits' chromed parts, specifically the one or two tiny areas where the part is still attached to the sprues, and once trimmed free, you see the colored plastic underneath the plating. Ideally, one would strip the plating, sand the part smooth, and treat it like any other painted part, but send it out for re-plating instead of painting it. It's easier to remove parts from the sprues and paint all visible areas, leaving no visible evidence of a former sprue attachment point(s), since plating is so final, while paint can be re-worked or resprayed. Very few parts on a model will have the entire surface area visible on the completed model, so you can get away with mounting individual parts to a toothpick, scrap of sprue, etc. in order to finish and paint each part properly, or at least the best you possibly can.

Posted

Not me, I am anal about painting everything that could possibly be seen. Of course with the headliners sometimes I just use paper upholstery as a way to cover up what is not painted, that circle left by the pipe nipple. Besides, it gives the interior a nice different look.

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