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Posted

I use House Of Kolor Automotive Clear.

This is a 2 part Clear with Catalyst.

Over the years I have used all the RattleCan Clears,removing them from the container and AirBrushing them.

Automotive Clear is not only durable and non-yellowing but it brings any paintjob, basecoat or colorcoat, to life.

AirBrushing your ClearCoat, whether a 2 part or that removed from a RattleCan, allows you complete control and also the choice of mixing in Color Intensifiers and Powdered Pearls.

CadillacPat

Posted

Something brought over from my armor builds, Polly Scale flat finish diluted with Windex. Gives your rat rod that dead flat finish. My gloss finishes just don't come out to my liking no matter how had I try. I think I need to get off the cash and buy that DVD that Dr Cranky said was soooo good. Ken

Posted

Testors clear top coat enamel , thinned 2 to 1 ratio paint to cheap laquer thinner . Apply with light continuos mist coats until an overall shine and smoothness is achieved . Works like a charm each and every time .

Does not hold up over time when shot over white or ivory , it will yellow .

Posted

Like Dave, my absolute favorite is Tamiya TS-13. I bought a can of the Wet Look Clear,but haven't used it yet. My recent visit to my LHS kinda concerned me. The rack was almost depleted of Tamiya paints and they only had two cans of clear left,so I bought them both. I asked the cashier what the deal was and she said Tamiya paints were now just trickling in. Today I bought a can of Dupont to try just in case Tamiya becomes non available.

Posted

When I shoot HOK paints I use Duplicolor Clear either out of the can or decamted into the bottle for my Airbrush. he testors Wet Look Clear Or Modelmasters ultra clear i use over the testors one Coat or their lacquers. Also Have Shot Testors Clear Like Donn does over some as Well. I Have some Eurothane Clear I had left from my Daugher car That I like As well. With it I don't have to worry about the basecoat as it works good over them all.

Posted

I have been using MM ultra clear coat lately, I really like it, I also like the one coat as well, I do use furture too sometimes. I have a can of krylon clear coat, its not the krystal clear, just the clear coat, maybe I will get a can of the krystal clear and try it.

I am thinking about getting a can of the 2k clear and trying that out

Guest Sickfish
Posted

I use House Of Kolor Automotive Clear.

This is a 2 part Clear with Catalyst.

Over the years I have used all the RattleCan Clears,removing them from the container and AirBrushing them.

Automotive Clear is not only durable and non-yellowing but it brings any paintjob, basecoat or colorcoat, to life.

AirBrushing your ClearCoat, whether a 2 part or that removed from a RattleCan, allows you complete control and also the choice of mixing in Color Intensifiers and Powdered Pearls.

CadillacPat

Same here! Great stuff... Very durable & can handle wet-sanding/polishing without burring through to colour coats.

Cheers Cliffo.

Posted

I use Naison urethane clear...this is a great quality alternative to the more expensive PPg products...Matt

I also use the Nason when I do urethane clears. WAY WAY cheaper than any of the Dupont or other popular Urethane clears.

Though...I have also been decanting Testors Wet look and airbrushing it on, and I'm getting just about the same results as the Urethane.

Question Matt on the Nason. Are you using any kind of reducer or just plain 4:1 like they say ? I am using 4:1 and I still feel like I could add 25% reducer but I don;t date mess with it :).

Posted

As a rattle-canner, Tamiya TS-13 clear is my favorite, although the Testors' One Coat 'Wet Look' clear is a decent 2nd.

I also love SG100 clear lacquer from HOK.......no UV protection.....but I'm not too worried about fading in the sun....

Posted

I also love SG100 clear lacquer from HOK.......no UV protection.....but I'm not too worried about

fading in the sun....

Or bird poop , better yet , scale old ladies ramming shopping carts into the sides of the cars .......

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