Right way to apply Future?

[cherokeered]

I applied Future to my paint job today with a 1" foam brush and it looked great with a great shine. After a couple hours of drying time, the entire surface is cracked with faint spider web looking cracks. What did I do wrong here?

Edited January 11, 2012 by cherokeered

[turn1wonder]

I don't know an answer to this but am interested because I've had 4 models ruined by this as well, and even stripping the paint web marks were left in the plastic.

Bob

[cherokeered]

Ya, I just tried removing the future with Windex and the web cracks are now in the paint too!!!!!!

Edited January 11, 2012 by cherokeered

[Dave Van]

How long had the paint been on the model??? It needs 2-3 weeks to gas out or it will crack the Future.

What type paint was on the model??? Future is an acrylic base clear and reacts badly with many water based paints.....Tamiya is the worst.

How thick did you apply it?? Too thick it will crack too.

I apply with a super soft sable one inch which is used for Future and NOTHING else. Been using it since 1980 with out issue....after I found what to use it one and not use it on!

[cherokeered]

I bet the paint wasn't cured enough....only 3 days here. Thanks Dave....going to sand and recoat with Testors MM and wait 3 weeks this time to apply the Future.

[MrObsessive]

Tamiya acrylic clear will do the same thing (cracking) if the color coat is not cured thoroughly. I've used Tamiya acrylic clear in the past for clearcoats with no cracking issues, but I do make sure the paint is completely dry.

As far as using Future for a clear topcoat, I'm not that impressed by it either. Seems a bit too thin for that use----however it makes a great barrier coat for sealing that nasty red or yellow plastic.

[Dave Van]

This is Tamiya spray can black with one coat of Future after the decals.

Check the roof reflections. I've been using it for years and love it....but other like other clears....and it's best to find what you like.....but some of mine are 20+ years old and still look good....so I stick with it.

Edited January 12, 2012 by Dave Van

[vwrabbit]

I assume airbrush? What pressure if so? I've been using Future, but can't seem to get a nice smooth finish.

Thanks,

Tim

Edited February 28, 2012 by vwrabbit

[northendmetalallstar]

I found this article on this forum somewhere, told me everything I needed to know (and more) about using Future.

http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

[deja-view]

I've put the Future on several of my cars as a trial, and so far it seems good. No cracking or anything like that. I applied it with a very soft sable make-up brush (actually use 3 different sizes). I set up a very dust free box and filter, then use a tack cloth to insure the body is dust free. I apply several coats on my 1/12 cars, but they have to be turned frequently for awhile because the Future works by spreading and laying flat by itself. It can be overlapped if you pay attention to the time and drying requirements. I have used it over older decals that I wouldn't dare use clearcoat paint on. So far, so good.

Hosted on Fotki

It seems to be working for laying and covering these old, stiff 1/8 Entex decals:

Hosted on Fotki

This is a 1/12 ERTL GTO with the Future applied. I have had to fight some runs/sags because of the amount it takes to cover fully the large panels but it's coming along:

Hosted on Fotki

Edited March 15, 2012 by deja-view

[935k3]

I have been using Future over 20 yerars and the only paint it has cracked on is Tamiya Acrylics and Testor's Enamels. I apply with the round disposable cosmetic pads available in 100 packs at the Dollar Store. With practice. it can be wiped on with good results. Dipm the pad in a bowl of Future then bloty the exces on a paper towel thenn wipe it on. Most waxes seem to remove Future when rubbed out but I have discovered that several coats of Zymol brand wax do not and do deepen and enhance the glossiness. The mor coats of wax the deeper the shine up to a point. Areas of imperfrctions can be dressed by wiping the area with a 50/50 mix of ammonia and Future, this reflows the area and levels all out. Smaller areas can be done with aQ-tip.

[Mike Kucaba]

I thin it with denatured alcohol,about 50/50 and shoot thru my airbrush at about 30 Psi with a fine tip and needle