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Posted

Hey guys, I'm planning a rat rod based on the Revellogram 1/24 37 Ford, and I'd like a more traditional hot rod engine than the SBC that comes with it. I've put 1/25 engines under this body and they DO look small. I'm going to put the chassis from a 1/24 '40 pick-up under this, and the flattie that comes with the same kit looks terrible. Any ideas?

ANY

392 hemis

Flatheads

Nailheads

409's

y-blocks

Old Caddy 390's

Posted (edited)

Most of the 1/24 Monogram engine you'll find will be simplified, so I guess it depends upon how much upgrading you want to do. The Monogram '29 Ford roadster pickup has a Cadillac engine, and the Boot Hill Express and Lil Coffin both have early Hemi engines.

lil___coffin_show_rod___collage_by_surftiki-d4mmwp5.jpg

Edited by Casey
Posted (edited)

Unless it's a Hemi... most engines are not really that big. And, the '37 was a fairly large car being quite a bit wider longer and heavier than the Model "B" bodies. 1/24th and 1/25th are so close as to be almost indistinguishable with engine parts. That said, some manufacturers do tend to cast engine parts smaller than they really were just to fit it in to the model, or mistakes in scaling down. The 1970 AMT Mustang kits come to mind....

My picks would be the Revell Parts Pak 354 Cadillac motor with a brace of 6 deuce carbs. A real headache to plumb and wire but it was a staple of most hot rodders and comes well detailed. Strip all the chrome on this one and paint accordingly.

Vintage Hemi from the Chrysler 300 is another great one.

You can make the Chevy mill into a vintage piece by swapping manifold and valve covers with vintage Corvette stuff. (Just a thought)

Most hot rodders back in the day didn't use a lot of chrome unless it was a show car. Maybe chrome air cleaners at the most. But the rest was raw aluminum castings and original engine paint complete with chips and grease as pulled from the wreck.

When building any model kit, especially a street rod, I pick an era and a theme and stick to that. You don't need a back story, but it helps.

For example, your '37: Consider it's to be built in 1963 using a barn-find survivor and the kid is fresh out of High School with a great job that his Dad got him at the corner hardware store. Get it? You have then established a believable structure in-which to build your car in a realistic way.

A theme should be established based on the kids influences in 1963, ie: Drag racing, Rod & Custom and HRC magazines.

The biggest flaw I see in most model builds is mixing themes and trends. If I see that I usually hit the back key and move on, doesn't matter how WELL the model is constructed.

You want to build a rat rod? DON'T USE DONK WHEELS!

You want to build a Pro-Street? DON'T RUN LOW PROFILE RUBBER!

You want to build a period Street Rod? Don't install parts and pieces manufactured prior to the period in which you choose to build.

:)

Edited by Jairus
Posted

When building any model kit, especially a street rod, I pick an era and a theme and stick to that. You don't need a back story, but it helps.

For example, your '37: Consider it's to be built in 1963 using a barn-find survivor and the kid is fresh out of High School with a great job that his Dad got him at the corner hardware store. Get it? You have then established a believable structure in-which to build your car in a realistic way.

A theme should be established based on the kids influences in 1963, ie: Drag racing, Rod & Custom and HRC magazines.

The biggest flaw I see in most model builds is mixing themes and trends. If I see that I usually hit the back key and move on, doesn't matter how WELL the model is constructed.

You want to build a rat rod? DON'T USE DONK WHEELS!

You want to build a Pro-Street? DON'T RUN LOW PROFILE RUBBER!

You want to build a period Street Rod? Don't install parts and pieces manufactured prior to the period in which you choose to build.

:)

Words to live by right there, Jairus!

Posted

Unless it's a Hemi... most engines are not really that big. And, the '37 was a fairly large car being quite a bit wider longer and heavier than the Model "B" bodies. 1/24th and 1/25th are so close as to be almost indistinguishable with engine parts. That said, some manufacturers do tend to cast engine parts smaller than they really were just to fit it in to the model, or mistakes in scaling down. The 1970 AMT Mustang kits come to mind....

My picks would be the Revell Parts Pak 354 Cadillac motor with a brace of 6 deuce carbs. A real headache to plumb and wire but it was a staple of most hot rodders and comes well detailed. Strip all the chrome on this one and paint accordingly.

Vintage Hemi from the Chrysler 300 is another great one.

You can make the Chevy mill into a vintage piece by swapping manifold and valve covers with vintage Corvette stuff. (Just a thought)

Most hot rodders back in the day didn't use a lot of chrome unless it was a show car. Maybe chrome air cleaners at the most. But the rest was raw aluminum castings and original engine paint complete with chips and grease as pulled from the wreck.

When building any model kit, especially a street rod, I pick an era and a theme and stick to that. You don't need a back story, but it helps.

For example, your '37: Consider it's to be built in 1963 using a barn-find survivor and the kid is fresh out of High School with a great job that his Dad got him at the corner hardware store. Get it? You have then established a believable structure in-which to build your car in a realistic way.

A theme should be established based on the kids influences in 1963, ie: Drag racing, Rod & Custom and HRC magazines.

The biggest flaw I see in most model builds is mixing themes and trends. If I see that I usually hit the back key and move on, doesn't matter how WELL the model is constructed.

You want to build a rat rod? DON'T USE DONK WHEELS!

You want to build a Pro-Street? DON'T RUN LOW PROFILE RUBBER!

You want to build a period Street Rod? Don't install parts and pieces manufactured prior to the period in which you choose to build.

:)

Jairus wins -----------------------------------------------------again .

Ed Shaver

Posted

A beautiful kit like the '37 Ford and you're going to rat it out? What a bummer, Rob. Not that I want to help a rat rod, but I have several flathead engines laying around.

Posted (edited)

Really? What do I win Ed?

Actually, most self described "Rat Rods" are usually either one of three: "In-progress project", "Nostalgic barn-find in-progress vintage project" or "Cartoon art car".

But I don't know where the idea that Rob's project was suppose to be a "Rat". He never mentioned it in the O.P. This I take it, is suppose to be a "Traditional Rod" or vintage build set between 'post war' and at least '40 years ago'. (1946 - 1963)

Edited by Jairus
Posted

Actually, most self described "Rat Rods" are usually either one of three: "In-progress project", "Nostalgic barn-find in-progress vintage project" or "Cartoon art car".

This will be the latter. I'm planning cartoony kinda thing. A surf rod with a bamboo surf rack and tiki motif. I believe Hollywoood Jim did one a couple years ago that I liked a lot.

But I don't know where the idea that Rob's project was suppose to be a "Rat". He never mentioned it in the O.P. This I take it, is suppose to be a "Traditional Rod" or vintage build set between 'post war' and at least '40 years ago'. (1946 - 1963)

Yep, I did call it a rat rod in the OP. I do want it to have a traditional flavor, but with the bamboo and tiki stuff I really didn't want it to call it "traditional". Hense my request for engine ideas. Oh and Jim? No rust. But it will have a matte finish, probably weathered a bit to look faded.

Posted

Monogram's 1956 and 1958 t-birds have y blocks in 1/24 scale. Having not actually built either one, I can't say if they are any good. But, IIRC, both have t-bird valve covers which aren't too bad, but have molded in parts (starters, etc).

Posted

The Engine in the '58 is actually an FE motor which was introduced that year. Probably a 352. The tranny is an automatic and it is indeed scaled a true 1/24th. I would use a 428 cobra jet duel quad manifold or a 3-deuce manifold to give it some style... but keep the chrome to a minimum as these engines came with none. At any rate, the FE is a good choice and quite logical.

However, if I remember right, that '37 kit has a front independent street rod suspension?!? Like a "Heidts" or something similar. (Don't have my kit here to look at so I could be wrong.) If so, you might find the front crossmember gets in the way of the oil sump if you use any vintage Ford motors. So... to be totally accurate to the era or period... find a doner front suspension and front crossmember from a Monogram 1936 Ford (1/24th) coupe. That's what I would do.

Posted

However, if I remember right, that '37 kit has a front independent street rod suspension?!?

Not to worry, I'm using the chassis and suspension from the Monogram '40 Ford Pick-up. It's left over from a build that didn't make it.

Guest Adamo
Posted

Tri Power 348 or 409! Looks tuff in a hot rod!

IMG_1986.jpg

Posted

Another option for an FE is the one in the Monogram 1/24 Cobra(change out oil pan and Cobra valve covers) or the one in the Monogram Talledega Torino.

These make nice versions and is 1/24 and the best part is you can call it what ever you want as for the most part all FE's looked the same on the outside!

Posted

Jairus is correct, the 58 is an FE. I believe it's a manual transmission though???:

dc6f70ce.jpg

This is the latest Revellogram issue.

I had to dig mine out to look at it and overall it's a pretty nice engine with some options: single or triple carb set up and "Ford" or chrome, ribbed valve covers. Is this all the original parts from the 1964 release? If so, it's pretty nice considering the era.

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