HELP!

[modelmike]

I am having a hard time with fine paint work... most of all the chrome detail work, like around windows and car emblems. are ther any tools out ther to help with this... is it just practis makes for better results... or is it as simple as useing a better brush??? and if there is a better brush what do you recommend?

[Dave Ambrose]

Bare Metal Foil is really the best stuff for a lot of chrome trim work.

But, for fine painting, there's no substitute for the fine sable brushes. Most art supply stores, like Michael's, carry them. They work well with enamels and lacquers, not so well with acrylics. They don't hold a lot of paint so you'll be going slowly.

Make sure your hands and the object you're painting are well supported. Ultimately, you should be resting both on the bench. With my eyesight, I find a magnifier is a required accessory.

[Draggon]

Before bare metal foil came out, I hand painted all of the trim. If there was a particularly tough place, like a car length piece of side trim, I would mask it off. Worked great!

[The70judgeman]

If you don't want to use BMF and want to use paint on the trim (windows)...try using the thin Tamiya tape. I've done that with pretty good success. Especially with windshields with molded in trim. As far as painting scripts...a lightly loaded small brush and a steady hand. OR...photo etched pieces if available for that particular model.

[Danno]

If you don't want to use BMF and want to use paint on the trim (windows)...try using the thin Tamiya tape. I've done that with pretty good success. Especially with windshields with molded in trim. As far as painting scripts...a lightly loaded small brush and a steady hand. OR...photo etched pieces if available for that particular model.

I most particularly like a tip I read awhile back. I've tried it once and love it!

Combine both techniques. > > > > > Use the Tamiya tape to mask the bodywork adjacent to the trim ... just as Andy suggests for painting ... but then apply BMF over the tape and the trim. Then gently press your fresh, new Xacto knife blade or scalpel along the tape's edge cutting through the BMF. Remove the tape (and the excess BMF comes off with it) and voila! The BMF remains on the trim but the tape removes the excess and leaves a crisp separation line just as if you had painted it!

If you've seen this tip elsewhere (it's not my brilliant idea), get on the stick and try it!

If you haven't seen this tip before, you may thank me later.

= My good deed for the day, Jim.

[The70judgeman]

Here's another little tip for BMF. I use a shading (blunt) tool to press and work the BMF into all the nooks and crannys, and smooth it out. You can probably get one in the drawing section at say...Michael's or Hobby Lobby. I like it instead of using my nails or something else that could tear the BMF in a bad spot.

Edited March 18, 2012 by The70judgeman

[modelmike]

So i guess i better learn to use (BMF) thanks everyone

[The70judgeman]

So i guess i better learn to use (BMF) thanks everyone

It's not that hard to use. Once you start...it's a much more welcome finish to you project. I've only just started using it myself in the last year. The only real drawback is the blades for your hobby knife get dull quicker. You have to have a sharp blade, or you'll tear the BMF. I bought a cheap knife set from a place like Harbor Freight a couple of years ago, and it came with a sharpening stone. I can get longer life out of my blades plus there are different size and kinds of blades in there.

[crazyjim]

Another reason to trek up to Ocala on April 7 for the FAST meeting, Mike. We're going to a BMF tutorial/workshop.