jmpsebring Posted April 4, 2012 Author Share Posted April 4, 2012 (edited) The Jacks are temp Jacks. It gives me a feel for overall height. This is going under a lit canopy so space is critical. I need the canopy to hide the lights. I can't make it "full size" because the case would dwarf the car. It is possible I'll have to increase the size of the case already. ( I can use the case for other projects) Plus the trick is to compress the scene as much as possible to frame the car. The length of bodywork fwd of the front wheels is where it's too short. (and I'm not about to lengthen it.) It's only 2" from engine block to the outside of the nose. ( it's over 4" from the firewall to the inside of the Willy's front nose.) I pulled the front wheels back to a scale 115" then another 1/16th" just to give me more space from the engine to the backside of the front grill for pumps, tanks, bottles.etc. I could have bought another bit of space by moving the firewall back....but the firewall is one of the reasons I built this. I love Promod firewalls. Overall I wish the nose was 1/2" longer. This is another reason to display this minus the nose and doors. A stock 70's funny car is not the same as a modern Promod...close but not quite as radical. Anyway, it's the paint and detail one will see and I'm falling asleep writing this so enough.... Edited April 4, 2012 by jmpsebring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MicroNitro Posted April 4, 2012 Share Posted April 4, 2012 I really like the way the body looks on the frame. Great job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beavis Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 with your skill level couldnt you just make the nose longer or the frame a little shorter in the front? oh yea, killer build. i'll be following this one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eviltwincustoms Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 The length of bodywork fwd of the front wheels is where it's too short. (and I'm not about to lengthen it.) It's only 2" from engine block to the outside of the nose. ( it's over 4" from the firewall to the inside of the Willy's front nose.) I pulled the front wheels back to a scale 115" then another 1/16th" just to give me more space from the engine to the backside of the front grill for pumps, tanks, bottles.etc. I could have bought another bit of space by moving the firewall back....but the firewall is one of the reasons I built this. I love Promod firewalls. Overall I wish the nose was 1/2" longer. This is another reason to display this minus the nose and doors. A stock 70's funny car is not the same as a modern Promod...close but not quite as radical. Anyway, it's the paint and detail one will see and I'm falling asleep writing this so enough.... Now the wheelbase, you commented it being 115" but you moved it back a 1/16". Your actual scale for the wheelbase is 114", which still puts you at a nice length, just not the max that most run. So I took the liberty to do some calculating and scaling out a Chris Isaacs chassis from that 70 Duster Pro Mod build. Just in case.... I have already calculated the plotted drawing, it works out to be roughly 1/50th scale. I suggest that you use it for reference for your main intersect points since you aren't building to scale. If I am reading what you are saying and interpreting it correctly you have 2" from the front of your block to the front of the chassis. Correct? If this is accurate, you are only 5 thousandth's off from being where you need to be! See measurements below for accurate 1:1 scaled down to 1/16th. Now here is what you should have in place on your chassis vs. wheelbase set up and this will tell if your chassis is accurate and your body needs adjusted. On the 1:1 chassis/car you should have 26.5625" (1/16th scale = 1.66") from your windshield leading edge to the front wheel centerline. Then in 1:1 you will need 37.5" (1/16th scale 2.34") from the front wheel centerline to the leading edge of the front bumper. Or specific to your chassis you should have 32.8125" (1/16th scale =2.05") from the centerline of front wheel to the front of your chassis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmpsebring Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 Now the wheelbase, you commented it being 115" but you moved it back a 1/16". Your actual scale for the wheelbase is 114", which still puts you at a nice length, just not the max that most run. So I took the liberty to do some calculating and scaling out a Chris Isaacs chassis from that 70 Duster Pro Mod build. Just in case.... I have already calculated the plotted drawing, it works out to be roughly 1/50th scale. I suggest that you use it for reference for your main intersect points since you aren't building to scale. If I am reading what you are saying and interpreting it correctly you have 2" from the front of your block to the front of the chassis. Correct? If this is accurate, you are only 5 thousandth's off from being where you need to be! See measurements below for accurate 1:1 scaled down to 1/16th. Now here is what you should have in place on your chassis vs. wheelbase set up and this will tell if your chassis is accurate and your body needs adjusted. On the 1:1 chassis/car you should have 26.5625" (1/16th scale = 1.66") from your windshield leading edge to the front wheel centerline. Then in 1:1 you will need 37.5" (1/16th scale 2.34") from the front wheel centerline to the leading edge of the front bumper. Or specific to your chassis you should have 32.8125" (1/16th scale =2.05") from the centerline of front wheel to the front of your chassis Because this is not the Andy McCoy duster body, It is not really a proportional copy of the Duster's body or frame. This is the Demon body off the Revelloution funny car with the front wheelwells pulled back. Pulling the wheelbase back to 114" had no effect on my timeslips I don't have 2" forward of the block to the end of the frame, I have only 1.8" between the frt.wheel centerline to the front of the bumper or only 2" from the front of the nose to the front of the engine block. That extra 1/2" of space would have been nice. Others using modern promod bodies, build everything in front of the motor, and still have room to build the nose's framework to mount the front of the nose to the chassis. And of course I could add length to the nose... but that's alot of extra work. The nose and doors will never be on the car. So I can make do, and proceed. I posted the comments in case anyone in the future thinks about using the Demon body as a starting point. It will be a kool car...but it's not really in Pomod proprtions. Someday maybe we will have a 53 vette or other older type of body from TDR. In real life I wish they would outlaw any body style later than 1960. To me, these are modern day alterds/gassers. This is going in a 19" case, up on Jacks, doors on door racks and nose off. I'm back to thinking about a carb motor. I spent alot of time copying your NOS mount Bart. This will have tanks!! Plus, tanks for the measurements! They are helpful for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmpsebring Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mister Twister Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Your mock up gives a good idea of where you are headed with this build and it looks great. Its right up my alley and it leaves the door open for tons of detail. Keep at it Jack....This is going to be a beauty! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostreet Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 Looking good, I like your idea for the display. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragracer Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 The car is coming out nice Jack, the display background looks great, have you decided which intake set-up you are going to run?, both mock-ups look good, hard to decide I'm sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baddgass Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 This is bad azz build bro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rrrrrrumps Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Seeing a build like this is like listen to a great funk jam...horns, bass, drums, all rising and coming to a finally of a blast of sound that it overdrives the senses, it's where you can't wait to see where it's goin'...it grabs you, it cuts loose...nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmpsebring Posted April 9, 2012 Author Share Posted April 9, 2012 Sometimes you just don't want to deal with "the next step"whatever it is. For me it was trying to trim down the wheel tubs. Lot's of slow fitting, knowing you can't go back once you cut things up. Also needed to make returns on the inside door edges to meet up with the frame. Started on a fill panel between the windshield and firewall area. Finally primed the tubs so paint has plenty of time to dry and shrink before decalling and clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragracer Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 All the work is paying off Jack, the tubs look great, & the fill panel looks good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Romell R Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 Super work goin on here Jack keep it up man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmpsebring Posted April 11, 2012 Author Share Posted April 11, 2012 (edited) It's hard to focus when your constantly pulled different directions by so many interesting builds. Not just all the high detail builds either. Sometimes it's just a car's stance, or decal sheet or paint idea, etc that makes one want to jump! I'm slowing down alot trying to decide on engines, lighting, paint schemes.........I want NOS bottles but we all know in the future we will have a great looking 5.30 engine/carbs to use. Maybe that means they will go in another car. I should 'settle' for a blown engine. I did start on the rear end and wheelie bars thanks to "others" paving the path. Edited April 11, 2012 by jmpsebring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbeard Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 jack looking great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Teresi Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 Jack......sure looks great........you are doing an excellent job on this build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragracer Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 You can set the car up to be able to compete in the ADRL, they allow Nitrous hook-ups on blower cars in the Pro-Extreme class. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eviltwincustoms Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 You can set the car up to be able to compete in the ADRL, they allow Nitrous hook-ups on blower cars in the Pro-Extreme class. That they do! My favorite class, light weight and super fast! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragracer Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 When I get back to working on my Dodge Demon "Angela" (using the same body as you,only in 1/25th & keeping it a Demon) I plan on having it be set-up with a blower & nitrous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjsipes Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 Nice looking Mopar. Not into the ProMods but I do like to see great chassis work. Great job on the chassis. It is nice to see something that isn't a Chevy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmpsebring Posted April 12, 2012 Author Share Posted April 12, 2012 You can set the car up to be able to compete in the ADRL, they allow Nitrous hook-ups on blower cars in the Pro-Extreme class. That's something I 'll look into. Thanks!! I only discovered the ADRL a few weeks ago. Just found out they have a major meet an hour from my home in June. Also found a 16car Promod race in two weeks at my "home" track , Maryland Int raceway(Bud's creek). It's about 10 minutes from my work. I'll try to find the ADRL rules , but is there anything obvious that would throw my car out of pro-extreme class? Or like don't run two batteries...or two Mags, transmission types etc. NOS and PSI blowers allowed???!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eviltwincustoms Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 (edited) That's something I 'll look into. Thanks!! I only discovered the ADRL a few weeks ago. Just found out they have a major meet an hour from my home in June. Also found a 16car Promod race in two weeks at my "home" track , Maryland Int raceway(Bud's creek). It's about 10 minutes from my work. I'll try to find the ADRL rules , but is there anything obvious that would throw my car out of pro-extreme class? Or like don't run two batteries...or two Mags, transmission types etc. NOS and PSI blowers allowed???!! Sounds like you are in Heaven... I went to all but last years ADRL races in Topeka Kansas when they had the tour. Fun packed 2 days of spending time in the pits with the drivers and shooting the bull with them. I talked to Jason Skruggs and his father when they running the 69 camaro, very nice car! If anything check out this site for the 2012 Rule Book, it wont let me download it.. but I have the 2011 book. http://www.adrl.us/competition/rules/ You can do a Max of 2 batteries, and must have an external "Push Off" switch. And you can only run one Mag! So max of one spark plug per cylinder on all supercharged and turbo cars. Edited April 12, 2012 by eviltwincustoms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragracer Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 The ADRL Rules are easy to find on their web-site (& unlike the NHRA, you don't have to be a member to check them out),most of the rules seem to be pretty much like the NHRA, the main difference is in the ADRL there is no weight or cubic inch limit, I sent a e-mail to their Tech guy awhile back (when I was researching for my Demon build),I asked about a dual mag,nitrous & if they allowed the rear swing-arm suspension (that is what I plan on putting in my P/N Nova & the P/E Demon), the swing-arm is legal, no dual mags, no more then 2 batteries, you can even run nitro (you have to have a thicker firewall & resrictions on blower size & overdrive). I found the ADRL in 2010 when I was "channel-surfing", I landed on the cable channel VS., & they were running a ADRL show, needless to say I was hooked, planned on watching & recording the 2011 season on my DVD player/recorder, then major bummer hit, ADRL signed with Mavtv, which I don't get & no more on VS. As I said check out their website for the rules it's easy (it's on PDF now), plus they even have live feeds of all the races free on the site (& the only bummer there is that the camera view is from above & behind the starting line, so you only see the cars from the top & back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmpsebring Posted April 12, 2012 Author Share Posted April 12, 2012 Thanks for the links & info Richard & Bart. Ya get out of drags for a decade or two and things change! I've seen Promods a few times. But when you try and build one, you know what you need to answer questions. Plus this time I need to concentrate on pit setups, projacks, chutes, tables, throttles,trailers,etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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