Question in regards to decanting spray paint

[fatkidd]

As the title states, I have a question regarding decanting.

I have the basic "how-to" down, but my question is...

Is there a "rule of thumb" for the time to let the propelant evaporate?

I"m going to spray some into a pint sized mixing cup, but was unsure how long to wait before shooting it through the airbrush.

Thanks in advance for any and all help.

Happy Building,

Fatkidd

[Big Daddy]

1 hour minimum so i,ve heard , i let it sit a few hours

[fatkidd]

thank you, sir.

I'll try that and see what happens.

[crazyjim]

I've been lazy lately with decanting. I tape one of those cone shaped drinking cups, cut off a bit at the bottom, tape it to an old HOK 2 oz bottle, put on gloves and spray the paint (clear) into the bottle. Then I wait about 30 minutes before shooting it.

What's up, Fatkidd? I've been playing with the new Iwata. It seems to atomize paint much finer than the Paasche. I'm loving it!

[Chillyb1]

I use a stirring stick (or suitable substitute) to see when the paint is finished gassing out. If you put the stick in the paint and it bubbles up, then you should wait longer. You can speed it up by stirring it with the aforementioned stirring stick. When the paint no longer bubbles, then you are ready to shoot paint.

But be careful. Depending on how quickly you insert the stirring stick, how much gas is in the paint, and how vigorously you stir, the paint may create a volcano effect and, well, erupt. [i'm not taking any questions on how I found this out, nor about how many times it took before I the lesson finally sank in.]

[Art Anderson]

I've been decanting rattle can paint into airbrush color jars since about this time in 1962 (50 years now), and I NEVER worry about letting the paint "gas out", unless I am trying to change the shade by adding more paint of another color to it, and need to shake it up.

Seriously, if you are using the color exactly as it comes from the spray can, there is no need--after all, you can't de-gas paint sprayed on a model directly from a spray can--and I have NEVER had any problems airbrushing the stuff thus.

I simply put on a pair of Nitrile Gloves (the exam gloves that EMT's use) so as not to get paint on my bare hands, and GENTLY spray from rattle can to my airbrush color jar (if you are using a gravity feed cup, you will need to do this into a color jar first, of course, then pour into the gravity cup).

Art

[fatkidd]

Thanks for the replies, guys.

I decided to spray some into a pint sized mixing cup and waited until there were no bubbles in it...about 10 minutes (Valspar Enamel Clear).

I then dumped that into the Iwata Revolution HP-CR and sprayed it onto my surface. I'm not 100% sure of the p.s.i. that I sprayed at, but it layed out rather nicely. I did get a little bit of fogging/dry spray. After a 24 hour dry time (air dry in the garage and outside in the shade), what fogging that appears was wiped away with a qtip.

[jayhkr]

So let me ask you guys this, what's the advantage of decanting from cans vs buying the little bottles and thinning? What brands do you guys normally use when you decant and what kind of results are you getting with said brands?

[Chillyb1]

So let me ask you guys this, what's the advantage of decanting from cans vs buying the little bottles and thinning? What brands do you guys normally use when you decant and what kind of results are you getting with said brands?

The biggest advantage versus "buying little bottles and thinning" is that it is less expensive. Also, some paints don't come in little jars anyway. I mostly use Tamiya TS paints. They go on beautifully and are very easy to work with. And you can mix them to suit your colorist fantasies.

I like some Rustoleum lacquers (also unavailable in little jars) and they spray too heavily from the can for most applications. I only use black, white, and clear in this paint series. I use them for chassis and suspension parts (black), some racing interior stuff (white), and the clear is very nice and compatible with all other lacquer paints I've tried it over and safe with decals, too!

Go to a local auto-parts place sometime and look at all the available Dupli-color paints in spray cans. You'll find a panoply of gorgeous paints to suit the palette of even the most demanding modeler.

[Art Anderson]

So let me ask you guys this, what's the advantage of decanting from cans vs buying the little bottles and thinning? What brands do you guys normally use when you decant and what kind of results are you getting with said brands?

To put it quite simply: Some colors, and some kinds of paints may well not be available in bottles, and of course, vice-versa. Far more places stock the rattle cans of auto touchup paints than stock the corresponding 'scratch and fix" bottles of the same stuff.

Art

[MikeMc]

I've been decanting rattle can paint into airbrush color jars since about this time in 1962 (50 years now), and I NEVER worry about letting the paint "gas out", unless I am trying to change the shade by adding more paint of another color to it, and need to shake it up.

Seriously, if you are using the color exactly as it comes from the spray can, there is no need--after all, you can't de-gas paint sprayed on a model directly from a spray can--and I have NEVER had any problems airbrushing the stuff thus.

I simply put on a pair of Nitrile Gloves (the exam gloves that EMT's use) so as not to get paint on my bare hands, and GENTLY spray from rattle can to my airbrush color jar (if you are using a gravity feed cup, you will need to do this into a color jar first, of course, then pour into the gravity cup).

Art

Art is right on.

Only thing to remember....do not fill your glass A/B bottle too full, unless the paint is gassed out, body heat from holding the bottle will cause it to rapidly "fizz"...it will come out your vent hole and make a mess.

I prefer to decant to a tall jar, I can then swirl the paint, release the gas...you will feel the "cold" when it has not gassed out.

[Mike Kucaba]

This is the first time I have ever heard that buying spraycans of paint and decanting them is cheaper(?) than buying paint in bottles,thinning them and shooting with an airbrush??

[hooknladderno1]

So let me ask you guys this, what's the advantage of decanting from cans vs buying the little bottles and thinning? What brands do you guys normally use when you decant and what kind of results are you getting with said brands?

Edward,

Decanting also allows you to use the airbrush to control the amount and pressure at which the paint is applied. Especially if you have fine detail or a multi-color paint scheme. I have done this several times with Tamiya synthetic lacquers without a problem. I believe that they actually have a tutorial on thier website. They recommend a little longer gassing out period, but as others on the board can attest to, it is not really necessary... HTH.

[Art Anderson]

As the title states, I have a question regarding decanting.

I have the basic "how-to" down, but my question is...

Is there a "rule of thumb" for the time to let the propelant evaporate?

I"m going to spray some into a pint sized mixing cup, but was unsure how long to wait before shooting it through the airbrush.

Thanks in advance for any and all help.

Happy Building,

Fatkidd

OK, logic here! If you spray paint straight from a rattle can, do you let the paint "outgas the propellant" before you spray? Of course not! So why worry about it if you decant the rattle can into an airbrush color jar for spraying? Answer: Nope! Just decant the stuff and airbrush away. End of story.

Art