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Posted

I am still trying to find the genre of model that really interests me , so I decided to pick this kit up. I will be building the car on the box , and will be using this site for reference http://www.racingico.../004/004-07.htm . This will be the first kit that I will have details such as engine wiring , and fuel lines so some things might may not be in the right spots etc... I have also ordered replacement parts from HRM , decals from VRM , and an MCG p/e set.

Now that I have bored you to death , here is my progress........

I have trimmed and filled the chassis , I used plasticine to fill the gaps since I dont have any strip styrene. I am still wondering what I should use to remove the battery mount since it should be at the rear of the chassis

018.jpg

Posted

good luck, this should be interesting. nice start so far, and it will look amazing when done especially using all the aftermarket stuff you bought

Posted (edited)

Plasticine, huh?

Going Gumby on us.

Is styrene strip hard to get in Alaska? And are you going to use putty over the clay? I'd be worried about the clay continuing to emit oily residue which would affect paint later.

Edited by DustyMojave
Posted

Hey Liam

I looked over my G/S and I didn't have to move my Battery. But , If I had to do that to mine I would use the back side of a #11 blade and slowly cut the battery plate off then re-fill the slot with what ever you have. strip and putty would be best but if you don't have it , you don't have it. Then use that base plate to make the battery box for the back.

Posted

Its sturdily mounted to the spare tire support. The battery was moved there for weight balance. This is common in road racing cars as well as drag racing door slammers.

Posted

Oh...And the rear axle doesn't move up and down. It stays with the frame, which the spare tire support frame is attached to. The Corvette had independent rear suspension from the 63 year model on. GS Vettes were built to represent 63 year model Vettes (even if they never had the divider bar in the rear window).

Posted (edited)

I have cut off the battery plate and filled in the areas with putty. I mocked up the rear suspension / tire support and I could not find any space to mount the battery plate , the rear body jack was in the way , so I am wondering what I should do. should I leave out the jack entierly? , or try to modify the jack so the battery plate can fit in place.

001.jpg

Edited by Haubenschild
Posted

Ya the problem is the thickness on plastic. Your going to have to use your best judgement on this one. maybe use .005 plastic for the box. Also I know about how it's mounted It just seems there is more vibration in that location as oposed to the body or even the spare tire. Just an obsevation!

Posted (edited)

I have made a crude mounting spot for the battery. I found an old plastic tree and cut off a nice flat piece from it to use , then I sanded it flat and attached it right above the rear leaf spring mount. I know it dosent look 100% accurate or correct , but this isnt a GSL model , its a model that'll sit on my desk

001-1.jpg

I also removed all the stacks from the carburetor , now the rest of the carb can be stripped and painted

004-1.jpg

Edited by Haubenschild
Posted

If it is not too late, I would dig that yellow modeling clay out of the frame. It will cause problems down the road. And paint won't stick to it.

It looks like you used some putty or filler on the ejection pin holes in the same picture that shows the clay in the frame, that would be a better choice to use to fill the frame. Hot water, detergent and a toothbrush can be used to get all the clay out.

Posted

Thanks for the advice Mark! I removed all the plasticine and began filling in the gaps with putty. I still have a little more sanding and filling to do , but its close to being complete

001-2.jpg

Posted

I think I would use the 2-part bondo or epoxy for filling that frame. Most modeling putty contains lacquer thinner which will eat into the plastic. Plus, it shrinks when it dries. You can't really put it on thick. Bondo should be readily avaiulable from your local auto parts store.Epoxy from just about anywhere. You can then finish it off with a thin layer of putty.

Posted (edited)

When I reviewed the AM kit for Scale Auto way back when, I used scraps of plastic sheeting to fill the frame. Once glued in, I then used putty to mold them over, and sanded everything smooth. To this day there has been no shrinkage at all. Using putty only to fill the slots in will eventually come back to haunt you.

Edited by Seattle Mike
Posted

I shot the chassis with a light coat of red oxide primer , after it dried I added some more putty to the chassis and started sanding. ( I still have a long ways to go )

001-3.jpg

I also shot the rear differental setup with Tamiya TS-17 aluminum

003-1.jpg

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