Haubenschild Posted April 10, 2012 Posted April 10, 2012 I am still trying to find the genre of model that really interests me , so I decided to pick this kit up. I will be building the car on the box , and will be using this site for reference http://www.racingico.../004/004-07.htm . This will be the first kit that I will have details such as engine wiring , and fuel lines so some things might may not be in the right spots etc... I have also ordered replacement parts from HRM , decals from VRM , and an MCG p/e set. Now that I have bored you to death , here is my progress........ I have trimmed and filled the chassis , I used plasticine to fill the gaps since I dont have any strip styrene. I am still wondering what I should use to remove the battery mount since it should be at the rear of the chassis
250 Testa Rossa Posted April 10, 2012 Posted April 10, 2012 You will also need a photo etch set from Model Car Garage to enhance the chassis.
Haubenschild Posted April 10, 2012 Author Posted April 10, 2012 You will also need a photo etch set from Model Car Garage to enhance the chassis. I ordered the MCG p/e set yesterday.
Haubenschild Posted April 11, 2012 Author Posted April 11, 2012 I removed the half shafts since they will be painted seperatley. I also began removing the stacks from the carbs since they will stay chrome
jbwelda Posted April 11, 2012 Posted April 11, 2012 good luck, this should be interesting. nice start so far, and it will look amazing when done especially using all the aftermarket stuff you bought
Deathgoblin Posted April 11, 2012 Posted April 11, 2012 I sooo want one of these. looks like you're off to a good start.
DustyMojave Posted April 11, 2012 Posted April 11, 2012 (edited) Plasticine, huh? Going Gumby on us. Is styrene strip hard to get in Alaska? And are you going to use putty over the clay? I'd be worried about the clay continuing to emit oily residue which would affect paint later. Edited April 11, 2012 by DustyMojave
38 Crush Posted April 11, 2012 Posted April 11, 2012 Hey Liam I looked over my G/S and I didn't have to move my Battery. But , If I had to do that to mine I would use the back side of a #11 blade and slowly cut the battery plate off then re-fill the slot with what ever you have. strip and putty would be best but if you don't have it , you don't have it. Then use that base plate to make the battery box for the back.
38 Crush Posted April 11, 2012 Posted April 11, 2012 I still can't believe they attached the battery box to the rear end so it would bounce with the rearend ???
DustyMojave Posted April 11, 2012 Posted April 11, 2012 Its sturdily mounted to the spare tire support. The battery was moved there for weight balance. This is common in road racing cars as well as drag racing door slammers.
DustyMojave Posted April 11, 2012 Posted April 11, 2012 Oh...And the rear axle doesn't move up and down. It stays with the frame, which the spare tire support frame is attached to. The Corvette had independent rear suspension from the 63 year model on. GS Vettes were built to represent 63 year model Vettes (even if they never had the divider bar in the rear window).
Haubenschild Posted April 11, 2012 Author Posted April 11, 2012 (edited) I have cut off the battery plate and filled in the areas with putty. I mocked up the rear suspension / tire support and I could not find any space to mount the battery plate , the rear body jack was in the way , so I am wondering what I should do. should I leave out the jack entierly? , or try to modify the jack so the battery plate can fit in place. Edited April 11, 2012 by Haubenschild
38 Crush Posted April 12, 2012 Posted April 12, 2012 Ya the problem is the thickness on plastic. Your going to have to use your best judgement on this one. maybe use .005 plastic for the box. Also I know about how it's mounted It just seems there is more vibration in that location as oposed to the body or even the spare tire. Just an obsevation!
tim_g Posted April 12, 2012 Posted April 12, 2012 big corvette fan really looking forward to seeing this one develop.
Haubenschild Posted April 12, 2012 Author Posted April 12, 2012 (edited) I have made a crude mounting spot for the battery. I found an old plastic tree and cut off a nice flat piece from it to use , then I sanded it flat and attached it right above the rear leaf spring mount. I know it dosent look 100% accurate or correct , but this isnt a GSL model , its a model that'll sit on my desk I also removed all the stacks from the carburetor , now the rest of the carb can be stripped and painted Edited April 12, 2012 by Haubenschild
Haubenschild Posted April 13, 2012 Author Posted April 13, 2012 (edited) Here is the rear suspension w/o the half shatfs after 1 coat of primer Edited April 13, 2012 by Haubenschild
Scale-Master Posted April 13, 2012 Posted April 13, 2012 If it is not too late, I would dig that yellow modeling clay out of the frame. It will cause problems down the road. And paint won't stick to it. It looks like you used some putty or filler on the ejection pin holes in the same picture that shows the clay in the frame, that would be a better choice to use to fill the frame. Hot water, detergent and a toothbrush can be used to get all the clay out.
Haubenschild Posted April 14, 2012 Author Posted April 14, 2012 Thanks for the advice Mark! I removed all the plasticine and began filling in the gaps with putty. I still have a little more sanding and filling to do , but its close to being complete
Dave Ambrose Posted April 14, 2012 Posted April 14, 2012 I think I would use the 2-part bondo or epoxy for filling that frame. Most modeling putty contains lacquer thinner which will eat into the plastic. Plus, it shrinks when it dries. You can't really put it on thick. Bondo should be readily avaiulable from your local auto parts store.Epoxy from just about anywhere. You can then finish it off with a thin layer of putty.
Seattle Mike Posted April 14, 2012 Posted April 14, 2012 (edited) When I reviewed the AM kit for Scale Auto way back when, I used scraps of plastic sheeting to fill the frame. Once glued in, I then used putty to mold them over, and sanded everything smooth. To this day there has been no shrinkage at all. Using putty only to fill the slots in will eventually come back to haunt you. Edited April 14, 2012 by Seattle Mike
Haubenschild Posted April 15, 2012 Author Posted April 15, 2012 I shot the chassis with a light coat of red oxide primer , after it dried I added some more putty to the chassis and started sanding. ( I still have a long ways to go ) I also shot the rear differental setup with Tamiya TS-17 aluminum
Haubenschild Posted April 17, 2012 Author Posted April 17, 2012 After the I stripped the chrome off the carbs I mounted them on the intake manifold
Steve Keck Posted April 17, 2012 Posted April 17, 2012 Be carefull with the P/E motor mounts. They make the engine sit too high.
Haubenschild Posted April 17, 2012 Author Posted April 17, 2012 Be carefull with the P/E motor mounts. They make the engine sit too high. what should I do with the engine mounts , sand or trim them down?
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now