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About to give up airbrushing + rant


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My airbrush is ALWAYS clogged. And when it DOES shoot paint, it spits it out! Before you start asking obvious questions...

Yes, the paint is thin enough. I actually tried thinning it out to water's consistency...still won't even shoot!

I always clean the needle, nozzle, and inside of it. I run a bunch of thinner through it to get everything out.

I'm running about 33-35 PSI too.

So I'm really discouraged right now. I'm considering quitting airbrushing altogether and going back to can. For me, it's just not worth spending 15+ minutes cleaning the airbrush EVERY time.

Edited by SuperStockAndy
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I had problems like that with my 200badger it turned out to be an internal problem with my seal I sent it back to the factory they fixed it for no charge and sent back to me nice thing about this was the warranty had expired however they fixed didn't care they just took care of it for me.

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An AirBrush is a very simple tool.

There is nothing mysterious about it or its use.

A few seconds of backflushing in between colors,

A minute at the most to wipe the needle and cup,

Or maybe 4 to 5 minutes to brush and wash the parts and reassemble after a long session of painting and using Clear.

Very simple, very fast, no big deal,

And,

I'm using House Of Kolor Automotive Paints.

You have said you thoroughly cleaned your AirBrush and it won't spray anything,

With that said I have to say your AirBrush is broken or you have assembled it incorrectly.

You do say that you always have this problem.

Has your AirBrush ever worked??????

People move up to AirBrushing to gain more control over their paintjobs.

To get that extra control you have to be willing to take a few extra steps.

CadillacPat

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Andy,

What kind of AirBrush is it???????????????

What paints are you using???????????????

What are you using for cleaner???????????

CadillacPat

I'm sorry!

It's a Harbor Freight double action AB.

Model Master enamels, and Model Master lacquers. I'm constantly switching from lacquer to enamel, vice versa.

I use a mix of mineral spirits and lacquer thinner for cleaning.

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Andy,

Have a look at how I clean my Badger 155. It is very similar to your brush. Also, I have some info on the Harbor Freight. It's not a bad airbrush. The needle is pretty fragile, so make sure there isn't a burr on it. The tiny .35mm nozzle is tricky to clean. Soak it in some lacquer thinner and flush it good with an eyedropper. Be sure you tighten the tip cap all the way.

The needle seal is adjustable. It may be too loose. You should feel a little drag when you remove and install the needle. Try spraying plain water. If it sprays OK, then maybe you have a paint problem. The Harbor Freight should spray fine with 20 to 25psi.

And finally, practice on some junk plastic until you feel comfortable using it. It will be time and paint well spent.

HTH

Don

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I'm sorry!

It's a Harbor Freight double action AB.

Model Master enamels, and Model Master lacquers. I'm constantly switching from lacquer to enamel, vice versa.

I use a mix of mineral spirits and lacquer thinner for cleaning.

there is a rubber o-ring on the air cap, if it is missing or damaged, this brush will spit and sputter all day...I have a few of those and

have given up on them because laquer thinner eats the o-ring after a pretty short time. Without it, it leaks air around the cap badly

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I also have the HF double action. Make sure you are cleaning the really small removeable tip...the thing if you drop you might not ever find it again. At the local drugstore,they sell very very small tooth cleaners, they look like miniature pipe cleaners.. package of 20 is only a few.bucks. Wet the brush with lacquer thinner and clean out that tip. You will be surprised what is still inthere.

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Andy,

Save up some money, like from birthdays or mowing lawns or whatever, and get yourself a Paasche H and Donn Yosts's video as soon as you can. It's the simplest, least frustrating path to success with an airbrush. Once things are going well, you can branch out to different paints. I have this brush and it's the best investment I have made. I use it almost exclusively for bodies, and I also use a HF double action for metalizers and small parts. It is much trickier to clean and keep running well than the Paasche. Not impossible, mind you, just a bit more work.

-Art

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I had problems like that with my 200badger it turned out to be an internal problem with my seal I sent it back to the factory they fixed it for no charge and sent back to me nice thing about this was the warranty had expired however they fixed didn't care they just took care of it for me.

Badger is pretty good about things like that and we've had them at a couple of our club meetings and they put on excellent demos for us as well as having some brushes set up for us to "play" with.
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there is a rubber o-ring on the air cap, if it is missing or damaged, this brush will spit and sputter all day...I have a few of those and

have given up on them because laquer thinner eats the o-ring after a pretty short time. Without it, it leaks air around the cap badly

A good point! I should have said to remove the O-ring before soaking the nozzle.

Don

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I have a Testors airbrush & its nothing but a pain. Ive cleaned it several times in enamel thinner & it still dont work. I know its a starter airbrush but I was hoping to get some practice with it. Looks like I should give it back to who I got it from? Im planning on getting a new airbrush. Im also thinking about going back to rattle cans.

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In my experience (going back 50 years of airbrushing, coupled with a combined 30 years working in hobby shops--including my own store) and selling/servicing airbrushes, if an airbrush refuses to spray paint at all, that's one of three things: Pressure too low for the consistency of the paint being used, clogged up someplace, or paint just plain too thick in consistency period.

For "spitting", the first place to look is the tip of the needle (which all airbrushes use for shaping the spray fan as well as for controlling the volume of paint flow). The needle must be in perfect condition, smooth and sharp--even the tiniest "burr" on the end of the needle will collect wet paint in a droplet when when it gets large enough, will be blown off and onto your paint job. The same is true of the hollow tip (generally a cone-shaped affair through which the needle extends. Those can split or crack, which again allows wet paint to collect into a droplet, which when big enough, gets blown off into your paintjob, just as with a burr on the tip of the needle.

Needles can sometimes be fixed, if the bur isn't very large (usually just the very tip bent over--reason #1 to NEVER drop an airbrush!), by gently sanding it smooth again. However, split hollow tips cannot be repaired, replace that if it's split or cracked.

Art

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This is why I haven't blown $120 (yet) on an airbrush + components. Too much of a PTA!!!

I've seen ppl churn out some superb stuff that were apinted with airbrush, but I know someone in my club that has a Testors Az(z)teck and he told me it takes about 25min to prep it for use (cleaning, disattaching, cleaning, dissataching, airspray test, mixing colors, remixing colors, etc.). I actually saw a demestration of an airbrush ata LHS once, and the part the owner was painting white was spitting out white goop and he said he spent an hour preparing it, mixing, calbrateing, etc.

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What if auto body shops had the attitude that cleaning their gun is just too much trouble, just paint with spray cans. Lol. My main airbrush, a Passche VL, turned 28 years old this year and works perfectly. Why? Because I keep it clean and do regular maintenence, just like any other mechanical device. Once you get a routine, cleanup doesn't take long at all.

Back to the original topic.....like someone else said, did it ever work right, or did it start this after something happened?

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As for the post about an airbrush taking too long to set up ..... How does two minutes sound ?

Old wives tales , poor work / maintenance habits , and cheap equipment generally create this scenario ! I use a Paache H series , # 5 head and needle , no problems whatsoever ! Always set up , always cleaned properly , ready to go at a minute's notice .

Andy , take some of your money and buy a good airbrush . Screw up a couple of kits or buy a few cans of spray paint and you've already cost yourself what a decent airbrush goes for . Use the old noggin , it boils down to simple economics !

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