Ford flathead ignition

[crazyjim]

I started building Revell's 1948 Ford convertible (blue on box). I plan on doing ignition wires but am confused with the kit distributor that shows 2 prongs on top. Would each bank of wires feed into those 2 prongs? MSD shows a "normal" looking distributor for a '49 - '53 flathead. I'd much rather use a "normal" looking distributir. Anybody out there fairly familiar with Ford flathead V8's?

[blunc]

flathead ignition wiring may actually be easier to do than a "normal" distributor.

check this google image search for ideas: https://www.google.com/search?num=10&hl=en&safe=off&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1920&bih=960&q=ford+flathead+v8+engine&oq=ford+flathead&gs_l=img.1.3.0l5j0i5l2j0i24l3.4166.15091.0.19811.28.18.8.2.3.0.114.1758.13j5.18.0...0.0...1ac.FEOkwprYrHo

[crazyjim]

That's what I was looking for, Mike. Thank you. The kit engine is like the top row 2nd from left (red block). I'd like to do the 2nd row 4th from the left (orange block), but that's a '49-'53 flathead.

I have no tubing small enough to put 4 ignition wires through like most of the flatheads seem to use. If I go with a "normal" looking distributor like the orange one, I'll probably get nailed to the wall.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Very good question. In reality, any of the Ford V8 flatheads can be converted to a "normal" looking distributor by substituting a '49-'53 -style timing cover that has a 90 degree drive for the distributor shaft, so if you do it, your model will be accurate. On some 1:1 applications there may be belt and other interference problems.

Also, over time, the tubular wire looms got left off on many engines, particularly where a hotter ignition had been fitted. The close proximity of the wires to each other in the looms could cause inductive cross-firing, and if the insulation on the wires had deteriorated, the looms made an easy path for the spark to jump and avoid the more difficult path of firing the plug.

[blunc]

if you're going for 1:1 appearance I think you can go either way, whichever suits you unless you're trying to replicate a real car. I'd say keep looking at the google images to see what fits your scenario then you have a reference to start from.

if you're not trying to replicate something real, you could be real crazy and put a serpentine pulley system on it also.

Edited August 17, 2012 by blunc

[Ace-Garageguy]

if you're going for 1:1 appearance I think you can go either way, whichever suits you unless you're trying to replicate a real car. I'd say keep looking at the google images to see what fits your scenario then you have a reference to start from.

if you're not trying to replicate something real, you could be real crazy and put a serpentine pulley system on it also.

If your '48 Ford is supposed to represent a '48 Ford in 1949 or later, the "normal" distributor could be correct. If it's supposed to represent a '48 Ford in the 1990s or later, a serpentine belt COULD be correct. It's been done.

[crazyjim]

Thanks for the info guys. I'm planning a street rod of no particular era and will go with a "normal" distributor.