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What color do they mean exactly?


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I am going to be starting the Trumpeter '60 Bonneville conv. soon and I was looking over the directions. Now I know that the suggested colors need to be taken with a grain of salt. But there are some colors that I am not totally sure about. Namely the ones listed below:

Metal Black

Burnt Iron

Tire Black

Wood Brown

After doing a little research on this site, I've discovered that "tire black" can be substituted with semi-gloss black. and burnt iron can be any dark metallic mixed with silver, aluminum, bronze, or gold etc... to achieve any number of "metalized" looking colors. And I'm assuming that Wood Brown is a slightly different (lighter) shade of regular brown.

I know there are many techniques one can use to achieve a similar looking end results to the colors listed above. I'm more interested in knowing what the directions mean when they say "Metal Black". Do they mean something like a black chrome, or metallic black, or something completely different?

However, please feel free to add any of your techniques though. don't let me stop you. lol.

Oh... one more thing, the directions say that the modern equivalent to "Shelltone Ivory" (60's factory color I'm looking for) is Testors/MM Classic White, but I don't think they look very similar. Any suggestions on achieving something close to the shellton Ivory is appreciated. Can't seem to get an accurate link to the paint color chip from paintscratch.com but the internet color code is #E7E7EA

thanks-epi

Edited by epi4561
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To find your "Shelltone Ivory", if that was in fact a factory Poncho color name, find a local automotive bodyshop supply store that has color chips going back that far. Some do, some don't. You'll NEVER get an accurate color rendition on a computer screen with current technology. Once you have a chip, it will have a mixing foumula (most likely for acrylic lacquer) and a competent auto paint store will have cross references to mix the color in other materials. It won't be cheap, and you'll need reducers, hardeners, etc that work with whatever material you end up with, and you'll have to airbrush it. You will also need to primer the body with something that will block the 'hot' automotive paint from crazing the plastic, most likely.

OR, you can try matching a chip to what's available in Duplicolor rattle cans at the auto-parts or auto-paint store. If you use Duplicolor, be sure to primer your plastic parts with the right stuff, or you'll possibly get crazing.

OR, you can try Scalefinishes.com. http://www.scalefinishes.com/

For your 'metal' colors, I'd personally recommend the Testors buffing Metalizer line. There are several colors available and depending on application and finishing technique, you can get anything from a pebbly 'cast' looking surface to an almost plated-looking glossy sheen. The color names in your Trumpeter instructions are the result of translation idiosyncrasies and the best way to figure out what they should be is to find a similar-vintage, correctly restored 1:1 car and actually look at the parts called out on the instruction sheet.

It all sounds like a lot of effort. It is.

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  • 3 months later...

I think this might be too late, sorry.

GM often used different names/paint codes for the same color, and this a classic example. Shelltone Ivory was a renamed formula that Pontiac used in 60/61. GM used the same color formula from 59 to 68 under several different paint codes and names. The most recognizable use of that color is paint code C Ermine White.

A great place to find these colors, and the colors they cross over to is paintref.com

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