mock ups

[silo1483]

I was just curious how you all do mock ups of your models during your builds and wjat glue you use for that?

Also how do you unstuck the glue afterwards? Thanks

[southpier]

a lot of fellows use "blue-tack" available at stationary & art stores. some use a dab of superglue, and then cut the parts apart. i have heard of using white glue, too.

i have taken to drilling & pinning with brass rod where possible, and using tiny machine screws if it can be put somewhere unnoticed.

[Duntov]

HI Silas:

I generally do not use glue for a mock-up... in most cases I "CAREFULLY" set up the car without any glue.... a little tape sometimes helps..... but overall the mock-up process is just to see how the car will look "generally".... see the photo of my in-progress '29 salt flats car..... no glue used here......But if you look closely you can see the tape I used in this instance.... Also... I try very hard to make most of my build parts press fit.... see my note about pins below.... both make the mock-up process pretty easy....

Also.... if you touch this car... it will fall apart (unless the pins are in place or I have a tight press fit part).... so this is temporary and posed at best....it really can't be moved or picked up per se....

Others will no doubt offer their solutions a well but this is just me.... so it is just ONE way...

Also.... I am a big proponent of using pins in my builds to make them
press fit".... I use .032 brass wire to press fit most things on a build....

The Orange 34 street rod pictured here has 37 different .032 pins in it and it can be totally

dis-assembled at any point....including the engine, frame and interior .....only a small amount of glue was actually used...

....the mock-ups in this case were all press fit and posed ...

The engine alone on this truck has 17 of the 36 total pins in it and can be removed and dis-assembled if desired....

Again... no glue on the mock ups.... (or the build if I can help it!!!!) Hope this helps.... Bill

Look closely at the rear of the truck below and you can see the .032 pins for the pick-up

bed sticking up in the back.... many many more are hidden here and there...

Edited March 5, 2013 by Duntov

[silo1483]

Thanks guys I appreciate the advice

[Ace-Garageguy]

A very small amount of liquid glue applied with a Touch N Flow pipette applicator works best for me. After everything fits to my satisfaction, I just break the joints and do my paint prep.

I'm extremely critical of stance and proportion on my own builds, literally to just a few one-thousandths of an inch, and I'll mock up the ride height with temporary fixtures made of styrene strip, like this...

...and then build fixtures to support the axles relative to the body, and build the suspension in place so it fits exactly, and maintains the exact ride heigtht that I started with, like this...

In this case, the fixture holding the rear axle is the new rear inner-fenders that will be trimmed to the final contours after the springs, shocks and driveshaft are fitted.

I'll sometimes mock-up plated parts, or painted valve covers with rubber cement. I also use the pinning technique extensively, but alignment of the holes is critical.

Edited March 6, 2013 by Ace-Garageguy

[John Pol]

I use elmers white glue for my mock ups.

John Pol

[silo1483]

Thanks for for the advice guys

[cchapman195]

I use Modge Podge white glue and pinning for my mock ups. After I get everything ready I soak in warm soapy water overnight and the glue desolves.

[Chas SCR]

I use the med yellow CA glue from Hobby Lobby just a tooth pick end tack the part in and zap it. This will hold it in place and also it make the glue very brittle so it will brake and chip off easy.

[Blown03SVT]

CA glue works well... just a little dab with a tooth pick. To break apart if it doesn't want to come free easily I use a small swab of De-Bonder to let the glue lose it grip. Eileens Tacky Glue also works well, as does tape and pinning. There is no perfect way, each kit and sub assembly brings a new challange and you have to go with what you think is best. At least you have the ability to see outsidde of the old builder analogy of paint everything on the spures and then assemble which doesn't always work out well with some older kits.

[JasonFL]

A very small amount of liquid glue applied with a Touch N Flow pipette applicator works best for me. After everything fits to my satisfaction, I just break the joints and do my paint prep.

I'm extremely critical of stance and proportion on my own builds, literally to just a few one-thousandths of an inch, and I'll mock up the ride height with temporary fixtures made of styrene strip, like this...

...and then build fixtures to support the axles relative to the body, and build the suspension in place so it fits exactly, and maintains the exact ride heigtht that I started with, like this...

In this case, the fixture holding the rear axle is the new rear inner-fenders that will be trimmed to the final contours after the springs, shocks and driveshaft are fitted.

I'll sometimes mock-up plated parts, or painted valve covers with rubber cement. I also use the pinning technique extensively, but alignment of the holes is critical.

Genius! I've seen this done on real 1:1 builds and never thought to use it on the models. This is gonna save me tons of aggravation of trying to get everything mocked and sitting the same height every time.

Just one thing, how do you go about building the rear suspension once the rear is in position? I had a lot of trouble with that building the Mercs air suspension.

Still not sure how everyone uses the pins to mock up, I don't think I'd have to much luck with that.

[JasonFL]

BTW, I myself just use a little tape or a dab of the tester glue to mock up. Easy to get it back off and then on final assembly I'll use a little super glue to secure everything down. I've also herd of guys usin Elmer's white glue but I've never tried it myself.