Ognib Posted May 8, 2013 Author Posted May 8, 2013 Been watching this guy real close for several months. This is the second project of his that I've seen. He's a remarkable talent. http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/large-scale-cars/36929-continental-mark-ii-38.html Wow, what a project. I'll be watching to see your progress. A worthy challenge, to be sure!
sjordan2 Posted May 9, 2013 Posted May 9, 2013 Been watching this guy real close for several months. This is the second project of his that I've seen. He's a remarkable talent. http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/large-scale-cars/36929-continental-mark-ii-38.html A worthy challenge, to be sure! He certainly is a remarkable talent. Have you seen his Toronado and Avanti?
Ognib Posted May 9, 2013 Author Posted May 9, 2013 (edited) I have heard of his toronado build but not the avanti. The mk II is the one I'm familiar with. Did a search, on the site where he posts, for the toro, but no results. Do you by chance have links? Edited May 10, 2013 by Ognib
Ognib Posted May 9, 2013 Author Posted May 9, 2013 Grill & radiator were joined with pins in sockets. Easily separated with razor saw. I was able to reach the mounting tabs on both springs with a small rotary saw, in the dremel. Crossmembers released with just a gentle nudge using a small screwdriver as a lever bar. Only damage is the slight raggedness on the left end of the center cm. So, back to the drawing board.
RAT-T Posted May 9, 2013 Posted May 9, 2013 HI RAY, NOT SURE IF THIS WILL BE MUCH HELP, I FOUND THEM CRUISING THE NET: http://www.google.com/#hl=en&sclient=psy-ab&q=32+ford+frame+dimesions&oq=32+ford+frame+dimesions&gs_l=hp.3..0i13j0i22i30l2.2882.16697.0.17286.23.19.0.4.4.0.107.1596.17j2.19.0...0.0...1c.1.12.psy-ab.pJDI9NSLOeQ&pbx=1&fp=1&biw=1088&bih=490&cad=b&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.\ http://www.google.com/search?q=32+ford+frame+dimensions&hl=en&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=0neKUf3-HarR0gG_6IGYBA&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=1088&bih=490
Ognib Posted May 10, 2013 Author Posted May 10, 2013 Much good information on those links, Tom. Thank you.
Ognib Posted May 10, 2013 Author Posted May 10, 2013 I've got a nice fitting template along the top of the fender. Transferred to a maple block that's large enough to hold the area of the piece.
Ognib Posted May 10, 2013 Author Posted May 10, 2013 The beginning of front fender bucks, right & left.
futurattraction Posted May 10, 2013 Posted May 10, 2013 This has been very cool to follow along on your progress thus far, Ray. Hand forming metal is something I've always marveled at others being able to do. I'll be checking in to see how things are going...
Ognib Posted May 10, 2013 Author Posted May 10, 2013 I'm glad you're enjoying, Scott. I'm enjoying the process. Keep checking it out & I'll try to keep it lively & entertaining.
futurattraction Posted May 10, 2013 Posted May 10, 2013 Are you going to be at the show next month? Lord willing, I am planning to be there as a vendor. Hopefully we can meet each other...
Ognib Posted May 10, 2013 Author Posted May 10, 2013 (edited) The slammers heartland show? I am planning to be there. I'll be sure to stop by your booth & introduce myself. Edited May 10, 2013 by Ognib
Ognib Posted May 11, 2013 Author Posted May 11, 2013 (edited) So here's what's fixin to happen. I've got a shape. I've got a piece of flat sheet metal that I want to conform to that shape. To accomplish this the metal will have to be either stretched or shrank. Folds in the paper represent where the shrinks will need to be, in order to accomplish the final shape. Rather than just a few pleats in the paper, the metal will recieve a series of smaller shrinks all along the edge of the fender. On this side, you'll notice that the folds go very deep into the paper. The metal shapers who's work I've studied, all buid a panel of this nature in two pieces. By doing this, a series of smaller shrinks will be pulled to the seam line where the two will be welded together. An easier, more controllable way to work the panel. Edited May 12, 2013 by Ognib
vintagedragfan Posted May 11, 2013 Posted May 11, 2013 looks like you are making some great progress Ray, can't wait to see how it turns out!
Ognib Posted May 11, 2013 Author Posted May 11, 2013 (edited) looks like you are making some great progress Ray, can't wait to see how it turns out! Little bit at a time. Still a lot of research going on...constructing good pictures in my head, so I can "see" what to do on the bench. awsome !! just awsome Thanks, Richard. Edited May 11, 2013 by Ognib
Ognib Posted May 11, 2013 Author Posted May 11, 2013 Started out looking for a 3 window, but I've got a roadster & roadsters are cool, so that's what I'm going with.
Ognib Posted May 12, 2013 Author Posted May 12, 2013 (edited) Laying out the grid for cross templates & inner fender edge profile. What a great design! The pure elegance of simplicity. Gonna be tricky carving all of this in to the maple, crisply, accurately & with proper perspective & relief. A worthy challenge! Edited May 12, 2013 by Ognib
Ognib Posted May 12, 2013 Author Posted May 12, 2013 I jigged the body so the tops of both 1/4 panels are square with the template material & then transferred the centerline, which is the high point of the body, down.
Ognib Posted May 13, 2013 Author Posted May 13, 2013 (edited) I've been thinking about the feature lines on this body. They are only .030" or so tall. My thoughts have been to use .016" for body skins, & I'm wondering how crisply this will form around such small dimensioned feature lines on the buck. If I tig the body together, I could safely solder over previously welded panel join lines without fear of "de-bonding" previous work. So my thoughts are to perhaps solder aluminum wire to the body skin & final shape the feature lines with dremel & files. It would certainly shorten the length of time required to do the bucks...not having to carve in such delicate features. Any feedback on this will be appreciated. Edited May 13, 2013 by Ognib
vintagedragfan Posted May 14, 2013 Posted May 14, 2013 Ray, why not add the body line feature to the buck after it is initially shaped, it would be a lot easier to add it rather than try and sculpt it in to the buck, you could use brass or even wood, then tack it or screw it on possibly, then work the fastener heads last. just a thought
Ognib Posted May 14, 2013 Author Posted May 14, 2013 Found this...perfect how-to on shrinking metal old school, without a shop full of powered shaping equip.
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