sjordan2 Posted June 12, 2013 Posted June 12, 2013 I want to assemble a 1/16 engine for parts fit, which I will take apart after I do so. What's the best temporary adhesive (this is too complicated for tape), how would you apply it properly, and how do you remove it cleanly? My only guess is rubber cement.
Cato Posted June 12, 2013 Posted June 12, 2013 No-white glue. Thin it if needed for fine areas or use dots of it on larger areas. Will need to rubberband or clamp a bit while setting. Micro Kristal Klear works well too because it's similar. Simply pry apart or if stubborn, run under warm water. My other tip was dental floss to tie parts for gluing or just mock-up. Glad to see you're building again.
Blown03SVT Posted June 12, 2013 Posted June 12, 2013 Eiliens Tacky Glue, or the cheap brushable super glue in small quantity. The stuff I use is thin, purple in color and is not a super strong bond especially when used sparingly.
Harry P. Posted June 12, 2013 Posted June 12, 2013 Aleene's Tacky Glue (Hobby Lobby and Michael's carry it) is thicker than normal white glue and might work better at holding bare plastic parts together than ordinary white glue.
DR JAY Posted June 12, 2013 Posted June 12, 2013 I use either Elmer's white glue or Crafter's Pick (Acrylic "super glue")...the crafter's Pick is stronger and takes handling and mock up batter than the Elmer's...just drop the parts in warm water after to remove the glue and follow up with some Comet and a tooth brush to remove residue that may still be there.
Ognib Posted June 13, 2013 Posted June 13, 2013 I was just thinking about this earlier today. Anyone tried hot glue? The times I've used it in non-modeling situations, it seems to have a non-permanent quality about it, in that dabs of it can be "rolled" off a painted wall & leave no residue.
vypurr59 Posted June 13, 2013 Posted June 13, 2013 I was just thinking about this earlier today. Anyone tried hot glue? The times I've used it in non-modeling situations, it seems to have a non-permanent quality about it, in that dabs of it can be "rolled" off a painted wall & leave no residue. Hot glue would leave a large space between the parts, as it is much thicker. Hot glue works good to attach parts to something for painting, but for mocking up I would stay away.
Matt Bacon Posted June 13, 2013 Posted June 13, 2013 I use Copydex rubber cement when I tack things together to paint as one unit and then disassemble to fit other bits in around them. It's not super strong and only really bonds when it's fully dried, but it will glue everything together AND peel off completely with no residue, and you can just pull all the assemblies apart. bestest, M.
Mike Kucaba Posted June 13, 2013 Posted June 13, 2013 I haven't tried this, but how about Future? I tried the Aileen's tacky glue and had trouble removing it. With Future a bath in some water with ammonia it would come right off.
Ognib Posted June 13, 2013 Posted June 13, 2013 Hot glue would leave a large space between the parts, as it is much thicker. Hot glue works good to attach parts to something for painting, but for mocking up I would stay away. Good point. Hadn't thought of that.
vypurr59 Posted June 14, 2013 Posted June 14, 2013 I have used white glue for mockups where I may want to move them around a bit. Because of the slow drying time, you can reposition it many times over. For assemblies I use rubber cement. Peels off after use, leaving no residue, but as always, I wipe with an alcohol pad before painting and or permanently gluing.
Tom Geiger Posted June 15, 2013 Posted June 15, 2013 Here's an alternative for you... as I build I usually cut the mounting nibs off parts, flatten out the mounting surfaces and set them up to asssemble by pinning together. I use a drill bit that is tight on the pins so that I can assemble it and take it apart again. Joe Cavorley used to build this way and showed me how to do it.
sjordan2 Posted June 15, 2013 Author Posted June 15, 2013 Here's an alternative for you... as I build I usually cut the mounting nibs off parts, flatten out the mounting surfaces and set them up to asssemble by pinning together. I use a drill bit that is tight on the pins so that I can assemble it and take it apart again. Joe Cavorley used to build this way and showed me how to do it. Thanks for reminding me about pins. That's one of the best tips I've learned around here.
Blown03SVT Posted June 15, 2013 Posted June 15, 2013 Pinning is very effective as well. Anyone else use sewing pins or am I the only one? One pin can be cut multiple times to create several mock up pins. I think a box of 200 cost me $2.00 at Wally World in the textiles section.
Tom Geiger Posted June 15, 2013 Posted June 15, 2013 Anyone else use sewing pins or am I the only one? That's exactly what I use. I don't remember the last time I had to buy them! As an added bonus, once glued, my stuff never ever comes apart. Here's a pair of mirrors that are pinned in place. You can see the straight pin on the passenger side mirror in the interior. I usually leave the item on the full pin while handling and painting. I cut it short right before I put it in permanently. Mirrors like these get glued on the inside of the body so there is no chance of making a glue mess on the paint job. Funny thing, I never glued the mirrors on this truck. They are still pinned in place on the finished model.
Jeremy Jon Posted June 16, 2013 Posted June 16, 2013 Don't use hotglue IMO, the heat can affect parts I use nail polish actually, just a dab & it holds "just" enough, yet breaks off easily afterward for parts prep
PowerPlant Posted June 16, 2013 Posted June 16, 2013 For all of my mock-up needs I use what is called blu-tac or sticky-tac here in Europe... It's a gum-like matter predominantly used for putting posters up... Holds well but peels off without leaving a trace This: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blu-Tack
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