My first model

[Aukoue]

Hello everyone. I'm Adam and I am totally new to this forum and I'm not sure where I should post it. If I posted it in a wrong section and I caused any problems by that, I am sorry. Here is the thing. In my high school, there is thing called "a personal project". We basically have to do ANYTHING we want. We have until May. So I got myself a Revell 1/12 Shelby. This is practically going to be my first model (I put some models together a few years ago, but I didn't do a good job. I didn't even paint them, they were ugly). I want to take my time and make this model look PERFECT! So I have a few questions. I hope some of you could help me. First of all, what spray paints do you guys recommend? I bought one on eBay - http://www.ebay.com/itm/350872021800?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648 - Do you think it's going to be good for spraying the body kit? I have to order all of the sprays online, because I live in Chicago, where if you didn't know selling paint sprays is illegal. Alright, next question. Do you guys have any general tips for me? Like I said, I want to do a good job on this model. Do you think I should spray paint small parts too? Or should I use a brush for those? Okay, I am sorry that it's really long. This is the last question. At the first page of the instruction I have all the colors labeled (Color = *letter*). And there is a small problem. Most parts are gray, but (for example) seats are black. And according to the key, they are supposed to be painted black. Should I paint them black? Again? Or should I just leave them they way they are? Have you aver had any experience with such a thing? I believe it would've been easier if every part was gray. Once again, I am sorry this post is this long, but it's also important for me. Thank you guys

[jbwelda]

Since it is your first model I am going to guess your biggest challenge is going to be to get a decent paint job and finish on the body. do yourself a big favor: don't mess with non-hobby and/or cheap spray paint. I would really suggest picking a color from the Tamiya TS series...this is the most user friendly spray paint there is. be prepared to do the paint more than once...get some denatured alcohol to remove the first paint if necessary (and be prepared for a weird look from the pharmacist where you have to buy it at least in California...you might need your parents to buy it if you are a minor). a second (distant second for me) choice is the Model Masters Lacquer line of sprays. Also buy some matching paint in a bottle if possible for minor touch ups.

As for the repainting of already properly colored pieces, its really not necessary but try to visualize what the real thing looks like and ask yourself if the piece unpainted really resembles the look of the real thing (in the case of plastic if it is meant to represent a plastic interior fabric like naugahide the bare plastic may pass muster). if the real thing varies in look from what you have in front of you, various toners and tones of a certain color might look better, for instance gloss, semi-gloss or dull coat variations on clear, or gloss versus flat paint finishes can more accurately "say" what you want them to say.

on spraying small parts, it is preferable because of the nice even finish you can achieve but if you want detail painting it has to be done with a brush or you will be faced with eternal masking to only hit certain subparts. its amazing how easy it is to hit the high parts with a brush to get those details called out. look up a technique called "dry brushing" too, can really help.

Most important though, realize that if it is your first model it may not come out like in your minds eye; live with it and learn what you can because you will do much better on the next and the next and the etc.

most most important though: have fun! because if you aren't having fun I don't think you will like building models much. its tedious work sometimes especially when you start to get into more involved projects, but most of us love that tedium to bits!

[randx0]

There are a lot of differing opinions when it comes to paint. Enamels (the can you bought) can be difficult to work with and they take a long time to dry. Tamiya paint is really great stuff, I like to use automotive lacquers they can be found at auto parts stores. I would also recommend either duplicolor or plasticote primers .

Research is the most important tool you can use. Pictures of the actual car will help you notice the little things that will help you build a better model. Treat each sub assembly as a separate model , see how much detail you can add to the steering wheel or the back side of the passenger side seat you'll be surprised at little details that add up to a nice model.

Good luck and be sure to ask specific questions you will get more responses.

Edited October 9, 2013 by randx0

[charlie8575]

Hi, Adam, and welcome to the forum.

I've made a lot of friends around Chicagoland and I know there are plernty of good hobby shops around there. Get acquaninted with the one nearest to you and make an effort to be on good terms with the clerks and/or owner, they'll make your life much easier, and if you're enjoying this, or simply need a little extra help, there are at least two decent-sized clubs around Chicago.

Painting is a subjective matter; as you noted, unpainted plastic looks, well, unpainted. Even if a part is molded in the approximate finish color, for best results, you should paint it.

A 1/12 model is BIG, and you should take some time to do some research. Go to your nearest Ford dealer and find a 2010-12 Mustang GT, and get plenty of pictures for reference, as under-hood and the interior, while not exactly like the Shelby, are similar enough to get you some idea of what different surfaces should look like color-wise. If you luck out and a Shelby is available on the lot, take pictures of that instead to make it absolutely right.

With further regard to paint, these are my suggestions.

1. Those Testors NASCAR colors are older paints, and can sometimes de-stabilize in the can, even though it's still relatively sealed. I also think that the racing color might be a bit bright for a street car. As Bill and Randy recommended, I would go with either the Testors/Tamiya lacquer products for the body, or, consider trying touch-up paint from the dealer or an auto parts store. Testors offers Grabber Blue, a correct color for both new and old Mustangs, in its lacquer line. Testors lacquer paints are a little on the thick side, but will generally cover in one or two coats. These paints require a clear-coat, but be sure to use the Testors clear lacquer, as other paints are chemically "hotter," and will cause trouble.

2. Primer. I CANNOT emphasize enough to prime your parts thoroughly, using a good grade of sandable primer. I earnestly urge you to obtain Plasti-Kote T-235 sandable primer, which is available at Car-Quest auto parts stores. Be sure to thoroughly prime the body and all other parts prior to painting. The gray primer is a good start for most colors you'll be using on this model. Apply the primer in light coats and sand in-between each coat with 600 or 1000-grit wet-dry sandpaper. Keep the parts wet while sanding, it'll reduce dust build-up and result in a smoother primer/paint job. For your final primer coat, given the size of the model, I would suggest using a final finish sand of at least 1500 grit, which will make it nearly glass-smooth. Your local Ace, True Value and Do-It Best stores carry variety packs of wet/dry sandpaper for automotive use (which you need), at reasonable prices.

3. Prior to any painting, wash your parts in warm soapy water, rinse and allow to air-dry, which may take a day or two. This removes all mold-release agents (a chemical similar to Pam cooking spray), which can cause havoc with painting.

4. Detail painting with brush paint will be needed for smaller parts. I like to use Testors and Tamiya paints. The Testors enamels can take a while to dry, but they cover well and look good. The Tamiya paints are acrylic, and have a bit of a learning curve, but dry quickly; the metallics are a bit heavy and require something heavier than a toothpick to stir them with, I've used popsicle sticks and pieces of sprue. Testors paints will clean up with paint thinner, Tamiya will clean with soap and water, followed by rinsing the brush in 90% isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol). You might find one line has a color you want over another. Not a big deal. Remember to wash all your brushes in soap and water after you're done painting, regardless of paint type. This cleans them thoroughly. I like to use dish soap for my brushes.

5. You'll probably want to srpay the interior in its overall off-black color. Testors Model Master military enamel line has a couple of colors that might fit your needs. After drying, detail paint the lighter colors, like seat inserts, as needed.

6. Use a good-quality glue. Testors liquid and tube cement are easy to find and work well, but the tube cement can be a bit hard to control, use caution with it. Its great strength is that it dries slowly and can be helpful in positioning touchy assemblies. For clear parts, I really like Testors clear parts cement; it also seems to work well on plated parts where removing the plating might not be easy.

7. Take your time, follow the directions as best as you can, and most of all- HAVE FUN!

Your project is interesting- I used to teach high school, and I'd be interested in learning a little more about what you're doing and why.

Charlie Larkin

[PappyD340]

First of all WELCOME to the madness here Adam, secondly the previous three posts all have excellent sound advice, I would say do lots of research, Google can be your best friend, like Charlie said go to a Ford dealer tell them what your doing and why and I'm sure they will be glad to let you snap all the pics you want, as Charlie said most of all HAVE LOTS OF FUN that's what this hobby is all about, and GOOD LUCK in your project, We'll be waiting to see the finished project!!!

[Aukoue]

Thank you soooo much for taking the time to give me this greats advice, I really appreciate it, it's very helpful! I was thinking of creating a topic, where I would post picture updates of this project (If that's not considered spam on this forum, of course). I would appreciate if someone told me what section of the forum it could belong to. I only have one question. Charlie said:

"2. Primer. I CANNOT emphasize enough to prime your parts thoroughly, using a good grade of sandable primer. I earnestly urge you to obtain Plasti-Kote T-235 sandable primer, which is available at Car-Quest auto parts stores. Be sure to thoroughly prime the body and all other parts prior to painting. The gray primer is a good start for most colors you'll be using on this model. Apply the primer in light coats and sand in-between each coat with 600 or 1000-grit wet-dry sandpaper. Keep the parts wet while sanding, it'll reduce dust build-up and result in a smoother primer/paint job. For your final primer coat, given the size of the model, I would suggest using a final finish sand of at least 1500 grit, which will make it nearly glass-smooth. Your local Ace, True Value and Do-It Best stores carry variety packs of wet/dry sandpaper for automotive use (which you need), at reasonable prices. "

I sound kind of confusing for me. So after I was the (for example) body kit, I should spray it with the PlastiKote T-235 Gray Sandable Primer, let it dry, sand it, add another layer, let it dry, sand it, and repeat it a few times, and then spray it with the spray paint?

Once again, thank you very much. I think I am soon going to order a Tamiya TS-50 Blue Mica Lacquer Spray Paint 3 oz.

Edited October 9, 2013 by Aukoue

[Dandydan]

Welcome and good luck with this! I can't add anything really that these guys haven't already covered-take your time and don't be afraid to ask questions.

[ImpalaBoy]

All of this advice is spot on and if you follow as much of it as you can, you'll definitely come out with a much nicer first model than I did! If there's one thing about model building I've learned so far, it's that you never stop learning. Even by the time you've been doing this for 20 years, you will still be improving. I've only been doing it for about 6 years so I still have much to learn. To answer your first couple of questions: yes, you are in the correct forum section so you don't need to create a new thread, but I would suggest renaming it "My First Model: Revell 1/12 Shelby" so that people quickly browsing through the list of threads will know what it is. And PLEASE POST AS MANY PICTURES AS YOU CAN! I love looking at pictures, much more than just reading peoples' descriptions of what they are doing. If you have a half decent digital camera, please use it, but if you don't own one or have access to one, a phone or iPod is better than nothing. As every one else said, good luck and HAVE FUN!

[Tom Geiger]

Adam - You've come to the right place. Nobody here will think you are spamming. Ask all the questions you want, the folks here are more than happy to help you with your project.

A few things. You can spray everything with spray cans. As others have said, Tamiya sprays are great as are automotive sprays like Duplicolor. Personally I use the Duplicolor gray primer you mentioned on everything. Do not use any automotive paint on plastic parts without this primer under it. Otherwise it will react with the plastic and wrinkle it!

Yes, spray everything you can. Carefully remove all the parts off the trees and clean them up as best you can. You will notice imperfections, mold lines and ejector pin marks (appear as round disks) that need to be removed. I mount parts onto tooth picks and stick those into Styrofoam blocks to paint. The Styrofoam can be the stuff you get with electronics like VCRs.

Good luck and start a build post on your kit. Take pictures with your cell camera and post them. Everyone here would love to help!

[charlie8575]

Thank you soooo much for taking the time to give me this greats advice, I really appreciate it, it's very helpful! I was thinking of creating a topic, where I would post picture updates of this project (If that's not considered spam on this forum, of course). I would appreciate if someone told me what section of the forum it could belong to. I only have one question. Charlie said:

"

I sound kind of confusing for me. So after I was the (for example) body kit, I should spray it with the PlastiKote T-235 Gray Sandable Primer, let it dry, sand it, add another layer, let it dry, sand it, and repeat it a few times, and then spray it with the spray paint?

Once again, thank you very much. I think I am soon going to order a Tamiya TS-50 Blue Mica Lacquer Spray Paint 3 oz.

Hi, Adam.

You basically have the right concept. Generally, I find 2-4 coats (depending on the color of the plastic itself) is enough to adequately prime the parts.

The Tamiya Mica Blue is a very nice color. I've never had use for it myself (as it doesn't lend itself well to the types of models I build, which are generally factory-stock 1920s-80s cars), but that'll look great on the new 'Stang. It's not too far off from the factory Kona Blue, which, in my opinon is a beautiful color.

A word to the wise: with mica, pearl or metallic paints, it's best to NOT sand between coats, as it can make the color look "muddy." This is especially true with pearls. Metallics with a high metallic content, like silver, might benefit from a light pass with 1000 or 1200 grit paper, followed by a finish coat and then polishing with a polishing kit (a set of emery cloths with grits as fine as 12,000, and must be used wet). The Tamiya sprays from report though, need little more than a light buffing with some "light-cut" buffing compound, followed by wash/rinse/air-dry to remove any residue, followed by a clear top coat if you want it a little shinier.

As to pictures, please do post them! And post them in this thread. When you've completed your model, you will see the next section down called "under glass" and that's for the finished products.

Be sure to take a look at a lot the builds-in-progress around the this section, too. You'll get ideas, and inspiration for your own work.

Whack that plastic!

Charlie Larkin

[slusher]

Welcome Adam, l am from chicago, l use to live off Western on Medill. Tamiya ts50 is a great color choice. You can go in a ford dealer and pick up a mustang brochure on a mustang for interior,color and engine referance pictures.....

[jbwelda]

Mica blue is a great shade and like Charlie said do NOT sand on the color itself. in fact with mica blue I suggest an overcoat of Tamiya clear blue, then a coat or two of regular clear. you can carefully sand the clear blue but you do NOT want to cut through to the mica blue.

the clear blue over the top gives it a real "kandy" wet look and the metallic particles really look good, very fine grain.

be sure to start a thread and keep us posted.