starting to get frustrated

[mnwildpunk]

I'm trying to smooth a body. I have filled low spots with glazing putty and let dry a mininum 24 to 48 hrs but as I sand them with a block sander making sure to cover the whole low area at one time. I'm still ending up with a low spot in the same area. This is the third time I have tried to fill this area and I'm geting very frustrated what am I doing wrong?

[randx0]

sanding too much , try priming the area with two different colors you should be able to see your progress better and know when to stop.

[mnwildpunk]

Idk about that unless I'm missing something. I will sand slowly while I can still feel an edge to the putty once the edge is gone I also have the low spot again? But I'm a cert mechanic not a body guy. My uncle Jerry tried to teach me for years on 1:1's but I never had success then either

Edited October 24, 2013 by mnwildpunk

[62rebel]

make sure you're not putting pressure outward from the inside unconsciously, compensating for the pressure you're putting on the outside. to prevent doing this, try taping a folded up piece of cardboard inside the body where you're sanding, and keep the pressure light. you'll develop a feel for this as you go.

[mnwildpunk]

Ahhhhh you may of hit on something just now I realize I do put pressure down on the block. Instead I should keep minimal pressure on the block

[64SS350]

Also keep in mind that these putties sometimes have a tendency to shrink, if i have a joint seam or a really low spot, I started using med. CA glue first, sands out well. Then putty over top.

[Ace-Garageguy]

All good advice so far, and having difficulty getting a surface 'straight' is very common, even in `1:1 work, so don't feel bad. You'll get it with practice.

It's also good to remember that 'smooth' and 'straight' are two entirely different objectives, that have to be arrived at simultaneously, and that makes things a little harder.

The shrinkage of the one-part fillers is definitely possibly a contributing factor (if you're using one-part material). Two-part glazing putty pretty much eliminates that particular hazard.

Knowing when to STOP sanding just takes time and experience, but one rule to live by is that when you just begin to see the bare-plastic edges of the area you.you filled begin to show, stop sanding and fill more.

[ScaleDale]

When you get into custom body work, putty-sand-prime, putty-sand-prime gets to be kind of a zen mantra thing that is repeated until you get it right. Patience.

Dale

[Mike Kucaba]

Try moving the block at 45 degree angles to the low area also helps.

[Ace-Garageguy]

Try moving the block at 45 degree angles to the low area also helps.

Also excellent advice, and well-used in the 1:1 body world.

Another good trick I rely on at times, both on the big ones and the little ones, is to use a straight-edge to check the flow or straightness of a panel. Laying the edge of a small steel rule along the body side and looking for light shining under the edge (or more obvious waves and lumpiness) will show what still needs work, how much, and in which direction to go...pretty quickly.

[mnwildpunk]

This is why body work is an art! I'd rather work on engines in the shop 24 hour a day then do 15minutes of body work. Engines you have set limits bodywork is by touch and feel something that isn't definite

[PappyD340]

Well Dave I was going to put my $.02 worth in but I believe all the bases have been covered with very good sound body work advice, Randy did mention using two colors of primer, it's called a guide coat in the body shop world, I use this method when working with low spots, I prime and then when primer is dry go back with a dark color I just use some cheap Walmart $1.99 black spray paint and put a very very light mist coat on, it won't take much, let dry and when you start sanding the low spot will remain dark it will stick out like a sore thumb, and remember what Dale said PATIENCE!! hope this helps, hang in there!

[Jantrix]

Another option is to fill the low spot with a thin piece of styrene using a solvent type glue, which will melt the two pieces of styrene together. Let it thoroughly harden, then slowly sand until the area is smooth.

[tbill]

I just recently did my first putty job on plastic, and much like you, couldn't really tell by feel how I was doing, so I sanded then primed and went from there. looks can be deceiving on these things and sometimes the area is so small it's hard to really 'feel' whats there. i'm also a gear head and hate body work, but, with some patience, it'll work out.

this cab has a lower section that glues in, this was my first shot at body work, this is the inside,

and this is what I ended up with on the outside,

hang in there, if I can do it, so can you.