Skypower Posted January 10, 2014 Posted January 10, 2014 (edited) Since the weather has not been to cooperative lately I have decided to start on another build and will continue with the Cuda when I can get some more paint work done. I bought this one because it I thought I might be able to steal some parts for the Cuda but decided I didn't need anything so I will do a out of the box build to continue with my schooling. This one is requiring a whole lot more prep work than the Revell kit. Any suggestions or comments will greatly appreciated as this will be my 2nd build and the first is not even done yet. Question what do you guys use as a body filler, that is easily sandable, I'm working on the motor right now and need some filler. Thanks Bob Edited March 13, 2014 by Skypower
mademan Posted January 10, 2014 Posted January 10, 2014 Ive had the best luck with Tamiya basic white putty. Dries fairly quick and is very sandable and easy to work with.
slusher Posted January 10, 2014 Posted January 10, 2014 Very good kit Bob, but just molded in blue. Tamiya primer will help that...
Skypower Posted January 10, 2014 Author Posted January 10, 2014 Thanks for the help guys, I will try and make another trip to the hobby shop. Hope it doesn't cost me too much this time. I hate that place. lol
cobraman Posted January 10, 2014 Posted January 10, 2014 For filler I use the green stuff but it seems a lot of fellows really don't care for it. To each his own but I have had good luck with it.
mademan Posted January 10, 2014 Posted January 10, 2014 Tamiya basic white is about 6.00 a tube. Ive also tried the Squadron green putty that Ray suggested, it works well too. I just find Tamiya easier to work with,
Armornv Posted January 11, 2014 Posted January 11, 2014 I've got that kit in the stash also. Haven't decided what I want to do with it yet though. For filler it depends on what I'm filling. Ejector pin marks, medium-larg ish gaps I normally fill with superglue. Mounting holes that I want to fill I will find an appropriate size plastic rod or sprue piece and glue it in with plasctruct glue. I also have some Bondo glazing and spot putty that works fairly well. I still prefer superglue because I can use the glossy shine to see if I still need to sand some more.
wrecker388 Posted January 11, 2014 Posted January 11, 2014 I use 3M Bondo glazing and spot putty. It costs about $10 for a huge tube at Autozone, so it's fairly inexpensive yet works well. Nice looking Nova too.
Skypower Posted January 11, 2014 Author Posted January 11, 2014 Thanks guys I got some glazing putty today at autozone to try on the motor, I will order some tamiya to try and maybe some green stuff to try also. I picked up the glazing putty because I could get it quick and the hobby store is an hour away. Thanks for the help guys.
Skypower Posted January 11, 2014 Author Posted January 11, 2014 A little more work done tonight. We will see how much work this thing is going to be tomorrow.
Skypower Posted January 22, 2014 Author Posted January 22, 2014 (edited) Well I kinda got side tracked and started messing with my Cuda build so this hit the side burner for a while. I pulled it back out tonight and all I got done was some clean up. Man this thing is a pain, tons of scraping and sanding, who knows how many hours I have in this thing and haven't really even started building. Anyway at least I'm back at it on this one. A couple pics of tonight's progress, not much to say the least. Still got lots to do. Oh, removed tv's from the backs of seats, don't remember these cars having tv's on the backs when I was growing up. Edited January 22, 2014 by Skypower
Speedfreak Posted January 22, 2014 Posted January 22, 2014 wow, I'm getting my kit out to see if it has as much flash as your's! Holy smokes! Ok, just looked at it and it has no where near the flash your's does, thank god! In fact it looks very clean, the chrome is beautifully done. Bob, this hobby takes stamina! Your work looks good.
Skypower Posted January 23, 2014 Author Posted January 23, 2014 Thanks Gene. Well spent a few more hours scraping and sanding and I finally feel like I made a little progress tonight. I glued up some components and filled some holes and reworked the motor so the intake fits properly and then I played with making a dip stick just for grins to see if I could do it. This thing is being a bear but finally heading in the right direction, even if I still have lots more flash to deal with. Anyway thanks for looking. If anyone has any tips for removing the flash other than the back a exacto knive and 1000 grit paper I'm all ears, this is only my second build so still learning.
Speedfreak Posted January 23, 2014 Posted January 23, 2014 (edited) Looking good Bob. The only thing I know of other than the usual tools for removing flash is a tool made by 'Flex-I-File'. It's a anodized aluminum frame that you attach thin strips of sand paper (plastic backed) to. The way it's designed it allows you to get into very small area's, like the headers in your kit for example. It comes in three different levels ranging from basic starter kit ($11.99) to complete set, which also includes five different sanding sticks ($25.99), all come with the anodized tool. I got mine at HL (40% off coupon!) , but , a good LHS should have them too. The company has a lot of other useful stuff as well. I know some people have scratch built the anodized frame. Here's the link: http://www.flex-i-file.com/index.php Edited January 23, 2014 by Speedfreak
Skypower Posted January 23, 2014 Author Posted January 23, 2014 Thanks, I'll check Hobby Lobby on the way home and see what they have.
Skydime Posted January 23, 2014 Posted January 23, 2014 (edited) Bob, if you're just getting started, you will learn, along the way, that you should always get most supplies somewhere other than the hobby shop if possible. With AC Moore, Hobby Lobby, and Michael's offering special deals, clearance tables, and 40-50% off coupons you usually get the best bang for the buck. Unfortunately, some supplies and kits do leave you searchin hobby stores and online vendors. Then again, if you are one of those of us fortunate enough to have a hobby shop to walk into, maybe you should support them more. Edited January 23, 2014 by Skydime
Skypower Posted January 23, 2014 Author Posted January 23, 2014 Thanks for the advice Ken, I do have a hobby shop about an hour away that carries some evergreen and a good selection of models and paints and such. I do try and support them as much as I can but I drive buy a Hobby Lobby on the way to and from work and I have a Michael's right around the corner from the house so I shop those places also, I think the biggest thing is just trying to figure out where to buy what, rather than wondering around the stores hunting for stuff they don't carry, and learning what online venders to use for the other stuff. I own my own business so I do try and support small businesses when I can. Thanks again. Bob
FASTBACK340 Posted January 23, 2014 Posted January 23, 2014 Bob, your doing good. If your lucky enough to attend a huge model show, stock up. I'll probably walk into NNL East this year with my usual shopping list. In the past I could make 10 trips to my car during the show stuffing the trunk. If my wife is with me I make less trips…. but bigger bags. How did the dipstick turn out?
stump Posted January 24, 2014 Posted January 24, 2014 Nice start. I had one of these kits at one time.....kinda wishing I'd held on to it now.
Skypower Posted January 24, 2014 Author Posted January 24, 2014 Bob, your doing good. If your lucky enough to attend a huge model show, stock up. I'll probably walk into NNL East this year with my usual shopping list. In the past I could make 10 trips to my car during the show stuffing the trunk. If my wife is with me I make less trips. but bigger bags. How did the dipstick turn out? Do they have any shows in Florida? If they do I will do just that. Dip stick came out ok, I didn't have any shielded wire that size so I just used this wire to see how it would look, I will either paint it to make it look like its in a sheath or just rip it out when I find the correct wire. So how did I do.
FASTBACK340 Posted January 24, 2014 Posted January 24, 2014 Great! You got the hard part! Now, take a wire, remove some insulation, add the washer, then make the hook. Like I said, you did the hard part. Besides, if you try it 20 X all you wasted is .17 worth of wire and 20 minutes. That's the beauty of this hobby. One of my favorite quotes is from the late Boyd Coddington: "Perfection is not impossible, it just takes longer"
Skypower Posted January 24, 2014 Author Posted January 24, 2014 (edited) Nice start. I had one of these kits at one time.....kinda wishing I'd held on to it now. Thanks Greg, I was gonna say how's things down under but since I just read you tweaked you back I won't. Hope you get to feeling better. P.S. man I love your build I'm learning a lot. Thanks. Bob Edited January 24, 2014 by Skypower
Skypower Posted January 24, 2014 Author Posted January 24, 2014 (edited) Again a couple more hours of sanding and fitting. This time I decided to assemble the firewall and inner fenders, well more issues, when assembled the chassis stuck out the bottom of the body pretty significantly so back to grinding and fitting. I think I got it now but what a mess it was, and I made, (lol) dust everywhere. Are all these multi piece front ends like this or is it just mine, well at least I got another lesson and I made a little more progress. I think I figured out why I'm having so much trouble with this one. I'm a Mopar guy and its a Chevy so it don't like me. lol Edited January 24, 2014 by Skypower
slusher Posted January 24, 2014 Posted January 24, 2014 I built one of those 66 Novas 6 months ago and it was hassle free. same kit could cause another guy headaches. I am a Mopar guy also may be why the Chevy on my bench now giving me a fit...
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