TRaymo Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Speaking of stacks where did you get those bull hauler cut stacks? I did a set using 1/4 styrene but that shine looks like factory chrome plating !? Looks good. Really like the extended sleeper and you can't beat a long wheelbase! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q tip Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 when I built the lonestar I put a different set on and set these aside. just put them on to see what it would look like... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRaymo Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 They look awesome. Ok so I guess I'll be buying a lone star kit. Prolly the only thing I'll use of that kit. Stacks and wheels. Not a fan of these aerodynamic futuristic trucks. I get 6.7 mpg in my 96 900L with a 425 C model CAT. And these new trucks get 7-7.5 is the lil fuel savings worth the awful looks? I do t think so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q tip Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 reworked the cab , wasn't getting the what I needed with the filler, so I just cut the panels out and installed new ones. I wasn't planning on doing too much with the engine,but I did any way. trying to upgrade from the non-turbo draggin fly cummins to more of the ntc venue. ( draggin fly=drag it up one side of the hill and fly down the other) with the upgrade of the horse, I figured I should put a suck tube up the back of the cab. if anyone has any info on plumbing from the cold side of the turbo to the upright i'd be greatful.......thanks john Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olsbooks Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Travis - love your comments! Amen brother. John, you gonna stick with a single "suck tube"? (love that one) . Dont know if this helps as granted it is a Detroit and therefore wont curl around to the front of the turbo like a Cummins, but otherwise looks like the same style filter/bonnet arrangement you got.Could you hack up one from say a Revell W900? Clearance with the cab floor is going to be tight probably. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tpqa5aLhdYM Good luck. Nice build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q tip Posted January 16, 2014 Author Share Posted January 16, 2014 thanks, that link showed me what I was looking for. I found a matching filter can and its going to be easier to run twins rather than a single. thanks for the help... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olsbooks Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 Glad it helped. Twin "suck tubes"? Nice! Always added a lot of class to those things.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgefever Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 (edited) I like this. There are a couple of WFT brochures showing an intake stack feeding the back of the Farr filter. I have them saved on my other computer, so I can't upload them till later... I like the look of dual cans though - that's what I'm planning for my next one. Jesse is right about clearance being tight with a turbo. I added one to my current (stalled) build and i had to relieve the underside of the interior bucket a little: www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=45564 Edited January 16, 2014 by dodgefever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q tip Posted January 17, 2014 Author Share Posted January 17, 2014 since the last post I have installed the engine,run the exsuast ,and went with dual air intakes. the intakes were painted met. blue at first then followed with alcad 2 chrome and the end result turned out to be a steel bluish color. the tube from the turbo to the cleaners is an aluminum tube. mocked up the interior inside of the cab shell and it still seemed to set properly........thanks for lookin,,,,,john Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olsbooks Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 Sharp! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Buckaroo Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 (edited) John, Nice work on the piping . Man I dont miss installing those exhaust clamps with that little chunk of foil for the seal ! Hey do you know where I can get a "single headlight" conversion for one of these Freight - shakers ? Edited January 19, 2014 by Old Buckaroo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q tip Posted January 19, 2014 Author Share Posted January 19, 2014 the single headlight is something you have to make yourself, the little deathrow single axle I built has singles. I just filled everything in and installed tubing for the buckets. that was my first attempt, turned out kind of rough but it worked. I've seen guys do on this fourm before and do it almost flawlessly. its just the matter of trial and error. this is why I choose to be on this fourm, these guys here are not afraid to let you in on their building secrets...............thanks john Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olsbooks Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 Perhaps find a glue bomb 1/25 Jeep CJ. The head and tail lights are perfect for semi's and the bucket seats work good too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Albion Posted January 20, 2014 Share Posted January 20, 2014 John, Your off to a great start with some nice progress. When I built my WF I made it single headlight with the curved fender and stirrup steps. The headlights aren't as difficult as some may think. To start with you need to remove the existing headlight bosses. Fill in the holes and sand them smooth and round, following the natural curvature of the cab. Then mark out the exact position of the centres for the single headlight. Take a piece of plastic tube and glue a piece of flat to each end. Then sand the flat piece until it is perfectly round like the diameter of the tube. These will be the housings for the lights. Take a small drill and drill a hole in the centre of the marks on the cab. Carefully open these out with a small round needle file to the same diameter as the plastic tube. Cut about 1/4" or so off the end of the tubes that you glued the flats on. Insert these into the holes in the cab and glue in place. For headlights I used the ones from the Tamiya mini car. These were perfect and had superb fine detail (What a shame Tamiya don't make trucks.). You can add the rivet detail using titchy train group scale plastic rivets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q tip Posted January 20, 2014 Author Share Posted January 20, 2014 Done a little bit of paint work as well as back drop work (garage) hope you like it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olsbooks Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Wow. and I love the "in shop" setup too. Really really nice. Gotta do that one of these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Whalen Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 Hi, I like the way this is shaping up. I'll be watching (and learning as well!) this build with interest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Buckaroo Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 (edited) Whoa - that shop is way too clean... There was a shop in Laramie WY I went to pick up a used aftercooler. I was like "oh man I would hate to work here - dirt floor" later a HVY duty tow truck driver & I was talking over coffee one night and I mentioned that shop and dirt floor . He laughed - it was concrete but had never been clean. Man I tell you I had seen floors in barns that were less dirty.. Really liking the teaser of colors and the shop ! Edited January 21, 2014 by Old Buckaroo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbill Posted January 21, 2014 Share Posted January 21, 2014 this is really coming together nice! love the work so far, excellent job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q tip Posted January 22, 2014 Author Share Posted January 22, 2014 thanks guys! you seen the masking, well it didn't turn out the way I wanted it to BUT, I have activated the back up plan,this should work out even nicer. now on the shop, I had seen guys do shops before and this is something I had been working on in between things for a while, it just adds that story line aspect of the build cause you can keep changing your back ground. need to find people for it now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Buckaroo Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 These are a bit on the pricy side but check out sites that have G - Scale Model RR stuff. http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/woo/wooa2549.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olsbooks Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 Dont forget JT's find on cheap peeps (not be confused with the likes of me) at Hobby Lobby. A touch of work on the face and hair along with a dulling "wash" to pull out some details . They aint bad...especially for the price compared to the Tamiya or Dragon ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q tip Posted January 22, 2014 Author Share Posted January 22, 2014 thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Q tip Posted January 22, 2014 Author Share Posted January 22, 2014 Here is the painted cab and striping. Thank for lookin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slammedi'am Posted January 22, 2014 Share Posted January 22, 2014 Lookin good man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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