So lets say I broke a part off of a resin body... is all lost?

[JTalmage]

I was test fitting a chassis on my '65 Fairlane body, and not realizing that resin is a little less pliable than styrene, I accidentally broke a chunk of the rear quarter panel off the body, not a big peice but enough to make me really mad.

I broke a pizza slice shaped chunk out of it... will CA glue hold it well enough for it to be handled/painted/sanded/etc???

The Chassis I will ultimately be using will be shaved down on the sides because it was a bear to get in and out. I dont want to break it again!

I'm really kinda freaking out over it since AFX In Scale resin isnt producing it anymore since it was bought out.. I havent seen any updates from that site in ages...

[Steven Zimmerman]

Superglue will work. You might try laminating a thin (.010,.015 ) piece of sheet plastic behind the break for added structural strength.......'Z'

[JTalmage]

Good call. I do have some thin sheets of evergreen I may be able to cut up for this. Whew!

[astroracer]

Be careful, the superglue will work BUT it sands a lot harder then the resin. I would put a bit of a bevel on the front sides of the break before I glue it on. Use the SG but keep it below the visible surface. After it's set up and you have done your reinforcement on the back, fill the bevel with a good polyesther filler such as ICING. It sands about the same as the resin and will give you a nicer finish without creating high and low spots as you try to level the break..

Mark

[VRM]

Stupid glue is awesome for resin. I would suggest that you use resin scraps for any bracing rather than plastic - it will be a stronger bond than plastic to resin. I usually save things like the flashing in windows, any runners or trees - those make great braces for any thinly cast or delicate parts.

Steve

[dimaxion]

I have a Perry's resin from the '80's I fixed . I popped the Left side from the Cowl to the wheel opening . I stripped it , Super Glued the missing side . I didn't re-enforce where the body was mended . It has been completed and still is intact for about 5 years now . It sits on a shelf and I pick it up gingerly . That is , when I disturb it . You seem to be doing well on the "Learning Curve" . Thanx ..

[Modelmartin]

I would just add that sometimes I use something stronger than plastic to reinforce. Some thin sheet brass would be really strong. On thicker parts I drill into both sides of the break and superglue brass rod or piano wire in. My models have to be strong enough to survive me building them!

Edited February 17, 2014 by Modelmartin

[Art Anderson]

Unless the "gluing" surface is really thin (not generally the case with a resin body shell--those tend to be as thick as a regular styrene body shell), I've had great success with CA glue and accelerator in repairing, even modifying resin bodies. One thing about CA glues is, they bond polyurethane resin very tightly, and very strong, and once cured, any glue "bead" showing can be worked down easily with needle files and some 400-grit sandpaper.

Art

[scottyguitar]

To add to what Art wrote, I have had no problems filing or sanding super glue on plastic or resin, as long as the work is done within 24 hours of using the stuff. After that it can be rock hard and difficult to work with.

[Tom Geiger]

I have a resin body for a '72 Chevy Impala. It's got a chunk out of the back end, end cap to part of the trunk lid, and no, I don't have it. I'll be piecing in a section from a donor 73 Chevy body. So I'll be working with different medium on my repair and I don't anticipate any real issues.

[Abell82]

I'm shocked awed and amazed no one has mentioned this yet, BUT...here goes.

CA glue de-bonder. No sanding needed period. Resin does not craze like styrene. So either formula of de-bonder will work. Personally I prefer Great Plains CA and de-bonder.

It's the same stuff that you get at Hobby Lobby. Hobby Lobby discontinued the de-bonder, however they do still carry the glue under a different brand name. So you need to find the Great Plains de-bonder if you want the good stuff.

Hobby Town and other hobby shops have a different type, of CA and de-bonder but it's simply not as good. Compare the 2 and you'll see the difference. (The Hobby Town type WILL craze styrene, like mad, so you have been forewarned.)

To use it, simply squirt some on a paper towel, and wipe until excess CA is gone. No sanding needed.

Try it you'll see.