Cato Posted April 21, 2014 Author Posted April 21, 2014 Major progress today after another step back. The previous presentation on the grille and crossmember came under further review of the Executive Committee (me...). Although I could get the adjustment required, the parts were under tension and that's a no-no. Turns out the front tray (maroon) was warped slightly and put pressure on the rad crossmember and grille. After disassembly and much tweeking (sanding and shimming), all better: http:// The grille is now near dead vertical with NO pressure. The brace rod, when in place, will find dead vertical easily. The rad crossmember, front tray and crossmember are now permanently mounted, solid and touched-up. The grille shell will be removed from the crossmember to prevent damage while construction continues: http:// Brass rod shows where the hand crank rod will go through the rad and into the crank snout. Square up front: http://
Cato Posted April 21, 2014 Author Posted April 21, 2014 Next bit of fun and the major part, is tweeking the front springs. Each spring pack required enlarging the slots for the U-bolts that retain them to the axle. Like stainless steel flakes in your eyes? Use a .043" thick Dremel disc in a .060" wide slot that needs to be wider: http:// If you're lucky, what you wind up with: http:// The spring receiver pads on the axle required enlarging and slotting (again)-not fun: http:// -Until you get to this part; putting them together: http://
Cato Posted April 21, 2014 Author Posted April 21, 2014 Ahhhh-now the good stuff (luck) is happening. It all fits and plays nice together. Mounted in the spring perches, the axle winds up square to the rad and front crossmembers. Yes, the spring are minus a shackle each and remember, just a few fasteners while test-fitting. It will be complete when it's complete : http:// From below: http:// Now the really good news. The front spring perch center rests 81mm from ground level on both sides. The wheelbase, measured from kingpin hole center to center of rear axle (the black nipple on the cap) is within .5mm (1/2 a mm) at 461.9mm (18 3/16"): http:// Next is removing the axle for finish and the rest of the junk Rolls hung under there to (jokingly) stop and steer this monster. But tonight, COLD BEER...
Harry P. Posted April 21, 2014 Posted April 21, 2014 ok, question. Shouldn't the spring leaves have an "arc" to them? If they were arced, the overall length of the springs would be shorter and would not force the front shackle forward at such an angle. Here's my Sedanca chassis using the kit springs: See the difference between your springs and mine? I always assumed that leaf springs have a pronounced arc to them. Or am I wrong?
Cato Posted April 21, 2014 Author Posted April 21, 2014 No Harry, not wrong. I asked Marvin about this early on because I wanted to be able to adjust ride height. I hate 'dead-cat' space above the tires. He said to leave them, that his builders do not arch them. I will wait until near the end when it's full weight (or maybe add weights to guess finish weight) to see where the fenders and tire windup. If need be, I'm pretty sure I can un-do the front perches, curve the springs and reassemble. Pretty sneaky way I got you to post a chassis pic huh? C'mon! It's beautiful; more pics in my thread please!!!!
f1ford48 Posted April 21, 2014 Posted April 21, 2014 Harry is right- if they are not arced your wheels will be too close to the fender-better at least make that check before you snug everything down! you can use the kit supplied springs as a guide I would think.
Cato Posted April 21, 2014 Author Posted April 21, 2014 Thank Frank-for sure I'll check. My early rubber springs are like taffy and they have NO weight on 'em!
Harry P. Posted April 21, 2014 Posted April 21, 2014 Pretty sneaky way I got you to post a chassis pic huh? C'mon! It's beautiful; more pics in my thread please!!!! The problem is that that's where it sits as of now. I can post a few more chassis shots, but no further progress since these photos were taken.
Cato Posted April 21, 2014 Author Posted April 21, 2014 The problem is that that's where it sits as of now. I can post a few more chassis shots, but no further progress since these photos were taken. That's not a problem. Post away!
f1ford48 Posted April 22, 2014 Posted April 22, 2014 seems like one could use that ''shrink tube'' for the spring gaiters for a pretty good effect- but not with plastic springs!
Cato Posted April 22, 2014 Author Posted April 22, 2014 seems like one could use that ''shrink tube'' for the spring gaiters for a pretty good effect- but not with plastic springs! MMC supplies it with the PE springs.
sjordan2 Posted April 22, 2014 Posted April 22, 2014 (edited) Harry - something's haywire with the picture of your springs in #229. Can't see it or open it (blue question mark box) EDIT: It shows up now. Nice work. Edited April 22, 2014 by sjordan2
Eric Macleod Posted April 22, 2014 Posted April 22, 2014 I had the same question about arc in the springs but sounds like the committee has it sorted out. You are looking good so far. I really like the weathering on the rad core. That looks just right! Eric
sjordan2 Posted April 22, 2014 Posted April 22, 2014 (edited) Speaking of the radiator, etc., I hate to mention it, but the entire perimeter from the inside radiator/grille to the interior bottom sides and around the firewall should have cloth bumpers threaded through metal strips, where the bonnet comes down. Edited April 22, 2014 by sjordan2
Cato Posted April 22, 2014 Author Posted April 22, 2014 Speaking of the radiator, etc., I hate to mention it, but the entire perimeter from the inside radiator/grille to the interior bottom sides and around the firewall should have cloth bumpers threaded through metal strips, where the bonnet comes down. Correct my friend. John Haddock shows how to make them in his superdetail notes. They were woven through what may be brass strips brazed to the rad and bolted to the cowl. I have painted the raised detail that Pocher provides (which isn't bad) a dirty khaki color for the strips. If you cut 24 (for the rad alone)strips of cloth or medical tape, 1mm wide by 6mm long, I'll make the brass strips and attach them. But I'm nuts enough with what I've got already...
Harry P. Posted April 22, 2014 Posted April 22, 2014 It runs all around the radiator shell and the firewall, to prevent metal-to-metal contact with the hood panels.
Cato Posted April 22, 2014 Author Posted April 22, 2014 I really like the weathering on the rad core. That looks just right! Eric Then hopefully you'll like the exhaust system. These pics are poor, more indirect lighting needed. But you'll get the idea. The main muffler and tailpipe are already hung in the chassis as you saw but these bits will go in with the engine. All plastic except for the small muffler which is brass. Acrylics, graphite, sprayed, brushed, daubed and rubbed: http:// http:// http:// http://
Cato Posted April 22, 2014 Author Posted April 22, 2014 (edited) I have to break into your house one afternoon when you're at the plumbing supply and steal your cache of wonderful 1:1 reference............... Edited April 22, 2014 by Cato
Harry P. Posted April 22, 2014 Posted April 22, 2014 I have to break into your house one afternoon when you're at the plumbing supply and steal your cache of wonderful 1:1 reference............... I also take bribes...
Cato Posted April 22, 2014 Author Posted April 22, 2014 I also take bribes... I would but I can't even get you to post the rest of the *!$*?%&! pictures of your Rolls!!!!
Eric Macleod Posted April 23, 2014 Posted April 23, 2014 I very much approve of the exhaust system. Manifolding and pipes look good. You should probably round off a couple of the manifold bolts to be truly authentic! I like that you are also addressing the windlacing on the cowl hood former and on the radiator shell. That is a detail that always seems to get overlooked. You have inspired me. I found myself looking at Pocher kits on e-bay. I really like the Maharaja Rolls but prefer the flying wing fenders of the Sedanca. I am not sure I am quite ready for the plunge as I have close to one hundred kits to build yet the appeal of the Pocher is strong! E-
Cato Posted April 23, 2014 Author Posted April 23, 2014 You have inspired me. I found myself looking at Pocher kits on e-bay. I really like the Maharaja Rolls but prefer the flying wing fenders of the Sedanca. I am not sure I am quite ready for the plunge as I have close to one hundred kits to build yet the appeal of the Pocher is strong! E- Oh baby! This is what I was hoping by posting a detailed WIP-to get more guys to build Pochers. If you have plenty of tools, plenty of patience and plenty of $$ ( ) please dive in. Sell off 60 of those stash kits and you'll pay your way into a museum model. The Maharaja is more complex than the Sedanca. Harry has one but is being his secretive self about showing it. And now there are several of us on here to share tips and experience to navigate one of these. It has been an enormous aid to me to have their help. Best luck in the buying process-don't fret missing some parts; I've found that there are a small number of solid suppliers. Keep me posted!
sjordan2 Posted April 23, 2014 Posted April 23, 2014 I believe Harry mentioned that his Maharajah is slated to become a shooting brake/estate wagon woodie.
sjordan2 Posted April 23, 2014 Posted April 23, 2014 (edited) deleted for redundancy Edited April 23, 2014 by sjordan2
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