Cato Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 Harry-did you scroll below the text?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Creative Explorer Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 I like you didn't go the easy way with the black everything, this has more punch to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 I like you didn't go the easy way with the black everything, this has more punch to it. Thanks Erik. I AM trying to walk the line between visual interest and 'clown car' different colors everywhere. I think just varying the gloss levels from flat up to gloss is a subtle trick that will help. I'm finding there are some parts, which I'd like to subdue with color, -I can't. Much of the rod and clevis linkage is like that. So is the leaf spring hardware. I am planning to leave the leaf springs in their PE stainless finish, just because they're beautiful and painting or the shrink-tube gaters would make them visually 'go away'. Because you must constantly touch those surfaces to assemble and adjust them, then install them in cramped places, finishing them in color would be wasteful because you'd chip and scratch them. So they will kind of 'jump-out' more than I'd like. I've toyed with the idea of using satin finish coach colors-like Frank and Rick use on their early cars. But I always return to the perfect-paint, high gloss idea. Actually the enamel look of the thirties (but using lacquers), not the kustom kar kolors and finishes of the modern era. Don't want over-restored look. Another Pocher reality of life; every single threaded rod, bolt and bracket must have burrs cleaned and holes enlarged BEFORE final assembly. Nothing fits right first time. Having a 2-56 tap and die would be great and I've got to try to find one. You must test-fit whole assemblies before final finish or assembly-or you'll do it over again. Plan and fit EVERYTHING 10 steps ahead. Makes for a very intense planning and building experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comp1839 Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 if it helps, i get my taps and dies here. 2-56 is pretty common. if you need really small look up micro taps. http://www.mcmaster.com/# Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 if it helps, i get my taps and dies here. 2-56 is pretty common. if you need really small look up micro taps. http://www.mcmaster.com/# DUH!-forgot all about McMaster! Thanks for reminding me Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 A Pocher is definitely a bit out of the comfort zone in some ways for me. But it is stretching my skill set a bit too. Here is one of the clevises which connect the brake rods to their brackets. At the top is seen one of the blacksmith stamped clevises supplied by Pocher and on the scale is the threaded, cast bronze piece from model Motorcars with its supplied 0-90 bolt. The kit clevis is 2-56; much larger. http://http:// A more relaxing hobby than building this would be juggling running chain saws with the light out. But if I get this the way I can visualize it, it'll have been worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 A more relaxing hobby than building this would be juggling running chain saws with the light out. Yeah, but remember this... once you've built a Pocher, you've done the model car hobby equivalent of climbing Everest. You'll have an incredible feeling of satisfaction and accomplishment. Every other kit you build after will be like child's play. You will have conquered the mountain... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 I thought I did that with the Alfa-but that was childs play, even with 6 wheels. Yeah, if get what I want, it will feel really good to just look at it in future. And no more 'childs play' builds; think I'm near the limit of my game. Remember, I did this 1:1 with the Cobra for 27years.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 I thought I did that with the Alfa-but that was childs play, even with 6 wheels. Yeah, if get what I want, it will feel really good to just look at it in future. And no more 'childs play' builds; think I'm near the limit of my game. Remember, I did this 1:1 with the Cobra for 27years.. Oh, and, Harry Reasoner was one of my faves for decades. A true class guy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 (edited) Looking great. Those Modelmotorcar parts seem worth the investment. Edited March 22, 2014 by sjordan2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 Looking great. Those Modelmotorcar parts seem worth the investment. Thanks. Can't say enough about the quality of their stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 Thanks. Can't say enough about the quality of their stuff. Ditto. Their parts are absolutely flawless. The best aftermarket stuff I have ever seen. And prices that reflect that. Super expensive, but worh the price, IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f1ford48 Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 (edited) this is why I dont build anything smaller than 1/18 -I like this detail. the chassis paint also has a good looking texture-looks like a real car. now I see what you mean about too much gloss black. taking the seams out of the petrol tank looks great also- even if nobody will see it .more and more I notice that mold lines need to be removed where they will be seen-tedious task but worth it. paint is really the major factor in this hobby and will stand out over detail as far as im concerned.no panel is ever perfect-cept for a show car- they all need a few dings ,scratches,tarnish,Patina etc etc and this is where the true ''ART''comes out in the Miniatures we build [to make that Grunge look convincing] the model builders in Hollywood are super talented in this respect. just look at Titanic Edited March 23, 2014 by f1ford48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 (edited) "more and more I notice that mold lines need to be removed where they will be seen-tedious task but worth it." A perfect example is the dampers, seen in an earlier photo. The parting line ran vertically through the piece. The tedious part about removing it was the undulating surfaces and nooks and crannies. Had to use round, tapered riffler files about 1/8" diameter. . Edited March 23, 2014 by Cato Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocherphile Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 "more and more I notice that mold lines need to be removed where they will be seen-tedious task but worth it." A perfect example is the dampers, seen in an earlier photo. The parting line ran vertically through the piece. The tedious part about removing it was the undulating surfaces and nooks and crannies. Had to use round, tapered riffler files about 1/8" diameter. . The tedious stuff pays BIG in the end........I also agree w/Harry, once you assemble a Rolls or a Benz as well, you pretty much have arrived @ the pinnacle of the hobby. Funny in away, many think the Alfa is a push over as well, but if you correct and align body to frame, move engine back into scale location and add the details Pocher has left out, you can be proud of that one too after completed. The above mentioned corrections are not for the novice though and should only be attempted after you are comfortable with build Pochers. I do hope to build the Rolls again, but this go round, I will replace only that which needs it and correct only that which will be seen as Harry has pointed out. I want to build the Gentleman's Hotrod again. This also includes a mod to those infamous fenders. But a kit is needed 1st. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 I want to build the Gentleman's Hotrod again. This also includes a mod to those infamous fenders. But a kit is needed 1st. Rick May the gods of eBay grant your wish! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 25, 2014 Author Share Posted March 25, 2014 This post is not designed to be a teaser. It's a peek at what's in store as you add big chunks together. Here the radiator and shell are fitted in place on the chassis, It's not complete or permanent. The rad still needs the slats in front and the Flying Lady-the actual last thing you put on the car. It is the result of 12 hours work. Before you think I'm a pokey (you're right), here's the purpose and actual process. Remember I said you have to plan 10 steps ahead? Last you saw I had the chassis near complete and final. To do that, you nut-together the very front crossmember-seen with the hand crank bearing in the center. To do that, you need the second (radiator) crossmember finalized in position. Koo's disc warns that the rad must sit dead vertical and centered side-to-side.This is accomplished by an adjustable bracing brass rod which runs from rad top center to the top of the firewall in the rear. Otherwise the hood and body panels will be ill-fitting without neat shutlines. So to do that, you must assemble the two radiator halves, and fit the steel shell to the plastic crossmember. Much flash removal and deburring. To do that, I had to widen the crossmember .020" (.010" per side to keep it centered) so that the rad fit comfortably without slack. Pause for a second about Pocher early blacksmithing. The second version of this kit (and you should be careful about which you buy on eBay) comes with both holes for the brace, the brace and hardware itself, in the kit. Lucky me has the early, first version. No brace or holes. Thanks to Koo's disc and advice from Marvin Meit, the method to modify the early rad for the brace was explained to me. I then set out to emulate what Marvin had shown me. I'll explain that process in a separate post, but it's what took the bulk of the time to get to this point. You can't see in this poorly lit shot but the rad is weathered from the heat and subtlety stained with coolant leaks and sweat... So the point is; see what you must plan ahead of time to just do a simple thing like close the front of the chassis? I've been poring over the notes and photos and cross-referencing the info all the hours I'm not actually 'building'. It's a building experience that exercises all your skills (including some you must acquire) and really brings the satisfaction the Pocher pro guys talk about on completion. It's not for everyone, but for the few of you following along who are contemplating trying one, I hope it's encouraging. Because I'm just an average-skill modeler. And a word about Marvin Meit from Model Motorcars; he is most helpful about (not only his upgrade parts) any assembly question or method needed to get a good result. A gentleman and regular guy too. It's nice to get a little incentive to go on when you put the big, (as big as the calculator in the pic) shiny grille shell in place. The chassis is so big, taking full side pictures is very difficult indoors. The rad modification for the brace coming next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 25, 2014 Author Share Posted March 25, 2014 Forgot! Before doing any of that, you must finish and paint (it's deep maroon with NO metallic) the 'front tray' (if you choose to use it) because the front crossmember threads through the holes in the sides of it and then is placed in front of the rad. So here it is just laying in place. Another piece that will be final-installed with the rad / second crossmember; http:// Truly, to go 1 step forward, you need to go 5 steps back... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocherphile Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 Looking good bro..........apron is the word you are looking for. Watching you work on this has me working on a Pocher too. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 25, 2014 Author Share Posted March 25, 2014 Watching you work on this has me working on a Pocher too. Rick Good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 I would love to see how you Pocher guys would transfer your experience to 1/16 kits like the Rolls Phantom II Continental and the Mercedes 540K. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 25, 2014 Author Share Posted March 25, 2014 I would love to see how you Pocher guys would transfer your experience to 1/16 kits like the Rolls Phantom II Continental and the Mercedes 540K. ... conversely, if you sold the jillion 1/16 and bigger kits you have, you could get yourself a Pocher project and join the madness! You know, I thought working in 1/8 scale would be a help to my dwindling eyesight. But then I discovered handling 2mm nuts ain't a big help................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 I would love to see how you Pocher guys would transfer your experience to 1/16 kits like the Rolls Phantom II Continental and the Mercedes 540K. There's such a big difference between the two, that most of the detailing you can do on a 1/8 scale model is practically (and in many cases literally) impossible to do in 1/16 scale. I mean, you can use actual nuts and bolts in 1/8 scale... hardware that actually scales out pretty well. But imagine using 1/16 scale hardware! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted March 25, 2014 Share Posted March 25, 2014 Truly, to go 1 step forward, you need to go 5 steps back... One of the basic truisms of Pocher kits! No wonder so many of them go up on ebay partly built... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 25, 2014 Author Share Posted March 25, 2014 Here's the modification of the radiator to install the brass rod for adjusting the stance of the radiator. The first shot is the radiator back half with the cast boss for the hose. Basically, the modification is to relocate the hose lower so a new hole for the 2mm brass rod can fit comfortably under the bottom of the hood. That lets the hood sit flush. So the boss is sanded off and cleaned up. Then the 2mm hole is drilled. The rod must pass through the rad and have a nut installed on the back and a locking nut on the front. A dummy plate is made of .060" styrene to a similar shape to the original hose boss. Both holes are carefully drilled in the plate. 'Rivets' added are pin heads. Then the whole assembly is painted radiator color. The hose shown is a section of printer cable which is the perfect diameter to match the Pocher (dry, brittle, cracked) hose.I left the inner core on the stub to fit into the hole. Remember this is only necessary if you have the early version kit. The brace is vital to get good, square alignment on the hood and cowl parts. Thanks to Marvin Meit for showing me this mod as MMC does this on all the early versions they build for customers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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