Pocherphile Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 Great history of opportunity missed. When I bought the Alfa, I think it was $139. Great tip too-download your tips here. Not just for me but hopefully this thread will convince some guys to try one. And yes, sadly, the cost of admission is high these days. but I did OK on the 'bay last year when I bought this. Luckily, it was as advertised minus some minor corrosion. But no warps!!! One went this week on eBay for less than $400.00, (RR) mint, un-started in box..........was on my watch list and sold before I had a chance to check and see what it was doing, if not, that bad boy would be coming to NC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 One went this week on eBay for less than $400.00, (RR) mint, un-started in box..........was on my watch list and sold before I had a chance to check and see what it was doing, if not, that bad boy would be coming to NC. Yikes-I paid a bit more last year and it wasn't mint but complete and unassembled. Still happy I got it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 The best kit for someone wanting to try their first Pocher classic kit is the Fiat. Relatively simple to build, yet looks pretty good. No wire wheels to build, no doors to hinge, etc. And fairly cheap (by Pocher standards). The toughest part is building the drive chains link by link, just like a 1:1 chain. Definitely the "entry level" Pocher classic kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocherphile Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 The best kit for someone wanting to try their first Pocher classic kit is the Fiat. Relatively simple to build, yet looks pretty good. No wire wheels to build, no doors to hinge, etc. And fairly cheap (by Pocher standards). The toughest part is building the drive chains link by link, just like a 1:1 chain. Definitely the "entry level" Pocher classic kit. I agree 100%, but I have also noticed a trend taking place on eBay.........a FIAT can go for as much as one of the bigger kits, so for a 1st time build, yes the FIAT is outstanding as a introduction to Pocher kits, but @ the same time, if I can buy a RR for what a FIAT cost.......... I once had a 1st production run of the FIAT and it was the only one I ever got this way, it came with the chains assembled from the factory.........they were in their own little plastic case, assembled and covered in what looked to be a thin coat of oil. The next kit came with the chain to be assembled w/a metal plate to hammer the parts on, 3rd and this current kit came with chain to assemble, but the metal plate is now plastic........ Just funny how things change! Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 The Fiat generally goes for around $400-500, sometimes less. Way less than any of the other Pochers kits. There's one there right now for $500 or best offer. I built the version where the chain parts are metal and you have to assemble every single link and roller... just like a real chain. I remember that being a somewhat less than enjoyable process... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocherphile Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 The Fiat generally goes for around $400-500, sometimes less. Way less than any of the other Pochers kits. There's one there right now for $500 or best offer. I built the version where the chain parts are metal and you have to assemble every single link and roller... just like a real chain. I remember that being a somewhat less than enjoyable process... Yes sir, there is one f/$500.00 or BO, but if one watches, other kits can and do go for lesser amounts..........a Rolls just went w/ship for less $300.00, complete and un-started, in box! Its just being @ the right place @ right time. I agree w/you, the FIAT is a better choice f/1st build, but I am a working blue collar and I like to get the most bang for the dollar........so I do look for the better deals, if a FIAT is going Buy Now f/$500.00 and a RR or Benz is available for the same or lesser amount (agree, not very oft, and yes there are none @ this moment, though some good buys are there if one watches and keeps up with them).......then its a no brainier! I also now look for started/built examples, these can be had for a song and parts can be sourced. I guess I am a bottom line guy when it comes to Hobby Dollars. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 The Fiat generally goes for around $400-500, sometimes less. Way less than any of the other Pochers kits. There's one there right now for $500 or best offer. My Sedanca came for $535. Holding the parts in hand and seeing condition of this early version car, I'm pleased I got a decent deal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 When working on a long, drawn-out project like this, I get a psychological boost seeing the main frame all in primer. After thorough dry, mock-up again and a rub with 600 grit: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocherphile Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Look'n good there ole buddy. Looks like you took care of all the wonderful sink marks that Pocher kits seem to just be full of. Keep it coming, Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Look'n good there ole buddy. Looks like you took care of all the wonderful sink marks that Pocher kits seem to just be full of. Keep it coming, Rick Of course, once the kit is built, you'd never see any of those sink marks. They'd all be hidden from view by the fenders and running boards. Just sayin'... With a Pocher kit (or any kit, for that matter), you have to pick your battles. Spending endless hours tending to things that won't be seen on the finished model isn't my idea of time well spent. For me, I'd spend my time and effort on getting the body panels aligned, the interior looking good, etc. Stuff you see when the model is on the shelf. But that's just me. Your opinion may vary... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 Of course, once the kit is built, you'd never see any of those sink marks. They'd all be hidden from view by the fenders and running boards. Just sayin'... I'd spend my time and effort on getting the body panels aligned, the interior looking good, etc. Stuff you see when the model is on the shelf. But that's just me. Your opinion may vary... HARRY! I need moral support-not news that I wasted my time!!!! In this case, I had flaws on the frame tops right where the hood opening exposes them. Not any more as, Rick said. Good 'ole Bondo works a charm, Dries quick, sands to a feather. Plus I'm addicted to the (probably life-threatening) smell... And yes, me too on effort where it shows. Been studying the Koo notes about alignment of those panels and will kill myself to get them right. I've seen countless pics of finished Sedancas which are otherwise beautifully done but for those JARRING rad / hood / cowl mis-fits and also the body sitting wrong at the wheel openings. Not on mine no matter what it takes. If you guys don't die of boredom by then, you can judge whether I got it right or not. Just be gentle with me... On these points, my opinion does not vary from yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Cato... no intent to dis you or your work. In fact, someone who sweats the details the way you do is to be commended! But I'm going from personal experience... I've built quite a few Pochers, and quickly came to the realization that the transmission case I had so carefully filed, sanded, filled, filed, sanded, filled again, etc... wasn't ever going to be seen on the finished model! So now, with a boatload of Pochers on my resumé, I know where the extra effort will pay off... and where it won't, so I divvy up my time and effort accordingly. Example: I've decided that my Sedanca will have the wheel covers, so I won't build the spoked wheels–they'll never be seen! Like I said... ya gotta pick yer battles... But that's me and how I go about it. Not necessarily the way you or anyone else should do it. Everyone has to make their own priorities. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 But in your defense... I admit I also filled sink marks on the frame rails and made styrene sides to hide the gas tank seam. It was my first Pocher RR. But if I had it to do over again, honestly... I wouldn't bother. Never going to see either of those things on the finished model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 Cato... no intent to dis you or your work. In fact, someone who sweats the details the way you do is to be commended! But I'm going from personal experience... I've built quite a few Pochers, and quickly came to the realization that the transmission case I had so carefully filed, sanded, filled, filed, sanded, filled again, etc... wasn't ever going to be seen on the finished model! But that's me and how I go about it. Not necessarily the way you or anyone else should do it. Everyone has to make their own priorities. Harry-we're all good! You're a top shelf builder and I'm trying to be. And yes I was gonna do that trans case from the git-go and still am. Not nuts about that junk fan and a few other parts but those are somewhat visible. That crazy Jordan has got me planning a wool headliner! It just bothers me looking like a Tonka Toy. Having built a 1:1, I know intimately what will show and won't. I'd be embarrassed to show you the powder-coated brackets and such on the car that only I took apart and know where they are. Or the anodized rockers and ARP black ano bolts. And on and on... Believe me it's not just you. It's a wonderful curse several of us share like Frank and Rick too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 But in your defense... I admit I also filled sink marks on the frame rails and made styrene sides to hide the gas tank seam. It was my first Pocher RR. But if I had it to do over again, honestly... I wouldn't bother. Never going to see either of those things on the finished model. Glad you admitted that-tells me I'm on the right track! And you'll see that on mine-when it's nestled in the glass case I have to make with the mirrored floor! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Even with the disc wheel covers on, wouldn't you see at least a bit of the wires on the inside of the wheels? Or do the brake drums cover them completely? Of course, you could make the discs removable like the real thing... Another touch would be to add lighted vanity mirrors inside the fixed top...[endless, isn't it?] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 Nice discs Harry. Alclad, body color or model plating? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Bare plastic. I haven't painted anything yet, just worked out how to fake the wheels without actually building the spokes inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 Bare plastic. I haven't painted anything yet, just worked out how to fake the wheels without actually building the spokes inside. I meant which will you finish them with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Awesome wheels. A quick check of my 1/16 Revell model shows that the inside of the brakes totally hides any view of wheel spokes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 I don't know if this helps, but here's how the spokeless wheels are assembled on the 1/16 Revell kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 I meant which will you finish them with? Oh, gotcha. I'm thinking gray and maroon, to match the body color scheme. Probably maroon on the inner area around the RR cap, the outer area gray, and a maroon lip around the edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cato Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 Sounds nice. Can't you pick this up again on a part-time basis?? I know the brass is your priority. And if your bench is loaded (as mine is!) I understand... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry P. Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Sounds nice. Can't you pick this up again on a part-time basis?? I know the brass is your priority. And if your bench is loaded (as mine is!) I understand... My problem is too many projects, too little time. I'll pick this up again for sure... I've come too far to abandon it now. But I don't know when. A lot depends on my work schedule, too. Sometimes I have time for building, sometimes not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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