Pocher Rolls Sedanca

[Cato]

Yes they are. The whitewall side is smooth all the way from the rim to nearly the tread.They have a slight bulge. The black side has the four circumferential rings plus the radiating sipes outward. That side is bulged right where the rings start. Two different sidewall contours.

I assembled the wheels without the screws in the outer rims to avoid the tires 'standing off' the rims. They fit fine and look good with the chassis sitting on them. Plus they go on and off the rims easily without getting chewed up. Very supple.

You can only see the two different contours from dead ahead or behind and low down.

You don't like 'em??

Edit-I took pains to get the rims exactly 18mm wide between the beads; as narrow as I could get them. But all 5 are the same.

Edited May 16, 2014 by Cato

[Harry P.]

The sidewalls seem to "bulge" way too much, as if the tires are too narrow for the rims (and of course, if so, not your fault). Here's a photo from the Koo CD with the kit tires. See how the sidewalls aren't bulged out like yours are?

Marvin's tires may be dimensionally correct and Pocher's wheels may be too wide, I don't know. But to my eye those sidewalls look "off." Again, not your fault at all. But to me it looks like the tires are stretched too far to fit over the rims.

Edit: it might be the fact that yours are whitewalls and that makes the bulge more visually pronounced. No big deal in any case... but for whatever reason, your tires just look "off" to me.

[Cato]

Fair enough and good illustration. I could not get the rims any slimmer-and I sanded every one of the seven rings' mating surfaces.

But look carefully at the inners on both sides and you can see that the contour of the black swells where mine does and hangs a bit over the rim.

I think what makes it pronounced on mine is the white side is very smooth from rim to tread-molded that way. The black side on mine has a different, bulged arc from rim to tread.

I'm weighing, if I make them blackwalls (your vinyl paint I guess), I'll have the smooth (white) side out.

Jury's still out on that.

But I do love the tires and can live with them as is.

And-it may be the camera lens but I have near zero positive camber on mine as opposed to what's seen on Paul's. Worked darned hard on that too.

EDIT-Hey, I just noticed that the left front brake drum on Paul's car is standing off the backing plate! Just like I illustrated with mine in this post. Should I share my secret with Paul??

Edited May 16, 2014 by Cato

[jaydar]

Hey Joe-not to disappoint you; just remembered I have scans (from print film!) of my Alfa, built circa 1979. Didn't know a thing about all its issues or corrections. Given as a gift to a friend in 1980...

Oh, that is beautiful!

Thanks,

Joe.

[Cato]

Thanks Joe, but if I could, I'd do another one a lot better than what I knew then.

[Cato]

With some 'life' interruptions along the way, I've been working steadily on the beginning of the engine build. Parts prep is everything on these models, and it reminded me to pass on a vital tip.

If you don't own them yet, buy yourself a 2mm tap and 2mm die. On ANY Pocher, you must chase every threaded rod, nut and bolt. You must enlarge virtually every hole in a plastic part and most in the metal ones. The method of heating a screw (with soldiering iron) in a plastic hole so it makes its own threaded 'nest' is a staple of construction. Where you can, avoid screws and glue permanently. If you don't do all this, when you go to fasten your nicely painted and finished parts, you get the rude surprise of things that won't join.

This is all in addition to the usual flash removal, seam sanding and sink filling. It's tedious, boring work and you need the discipline to do it for hours. Then you'll just have parts that will fit together-not the gleaming end result you've been dreaming of.

But you'll get there..........

[Cato]

For the last week, I have been (admittedly) doing a stupid amount of prep on the engine proper and trans case.

Harry will blast me because I know the top of the trans will be unseen against the floor boards and a lot of the engine block and pan prep will be hard to see between the frame rails.

But my illness is that I just can't leave gaps, seams and Pocher's trademark poor fits uncorrected. If nothing else, it's improving my finishing techniques. There are also seams and gaps in places impossible to fill and sand...but so far, I got 'em...

I have been steadily photo-ing the parts and will organize and post some soon.

[sjordan2]

For the last week, I have been (admittedly) doing a stupid amount of prep on the engine proper and trans case.

Harry will blast me because I know the top of the trans will be unseen against the floor boards and a lot of the engine block and pan prep will be hard to see between the frame rails.

But my illness is that I just can't leave gaps, seams and Pocher's trademark poor fits uncorrected. If nothing else, it's improving my finishing techniques. There are also seams and gaps in places impossible to fill and sand...but so far, I got 'em...

I have been steadily photo-ing the parts and will organize and post some soon.

That's what separates the pros from the hobbyists. Nothing at all against the hobbyists, of which I am one. There are just different levels of commitment, and many of our hobbyist colleagues rise to pro level.

[Cato]

Edited June 12, 2014 by Cato

[Cato]

[Cato]

[David G.]

Looking good!

David G.

[Eric Macleod]

I still vote for black walls, especially against those cream colored wheels. The engine does not look stupid. It looks meticulous!

[Cato]

Thanks guys.

Like a fight, one should pick and choose when and where to be meticulous. I think I'm getting stupid about where I'm meticulous.

[Cato]

Engine heavily in assembly. But jumping ahead a bit, I decided blackwalls. After some basecoats of the maroon on the front fenders, that sealed it for me. Wheels all done in paint and with valvestems and caps:

[Harry P.]

I like the body/wheel color combo. Classy looking. I also agree on going with the blackwalls. You just don't see RRs of this era with whitewalls very often.

[Cato]

You just don't see RRs of this era with whitewalls very often.

Almost never in the day; but frequently on over-restos of today.

Glad you approve.

[jaymcminn]

Good call on the blackwalls. Very sharp with the cream/maroon combo. Somehow I don't see myself ever having the patience to tackle one of these Pocher monsters. Amazing work so far!

[f1ford48]

the engine seam work and added details will be worth it-already looks great!

very refreshing to see the wheels painted and blackwalls -whitewalls pull your eye on to them and not the model.

what paint did you use on the wheels? great color.

[Cato]

Hey Frank-great to see you back. Spending big time on your '40 pickup?

Thanks for the kind words. The wheel color is Krylon 'Sweet Cream'-goes nicely with blackwalls and deep maroon.

Now send Rick back-he's been AWOL in the brass and Pocher section!

[Cato]

Up to date. Paint and finish detailing is part of the process because you can't do it after assembly. It may not be popular but all my finishes are slightly distressed and nothing is really 'museum resto' shiny. Just used on a quasi-regular basis for an older restored, 82 year old car.

Trying for this:

Got this:

More below:

[Cato]

[f1ford48]

absolutely superb weathering on that engine and ancillaries-looks real-the way I would build it. I saw the muffler a while back and it is very convincing!

there was a Rolls of this vintage at a car show I saw on Fathers day.

[Cato]

there was a Rolls of this vintage at a car show I saw on Fathers day.

Did you take a few thousand pictures for me?

[Cato]