GundamFundam Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 Hello all. I'm an amatuer modeler (I've only built about 3 kits or so) and I was wondering if it's not pratical to use a spray can for small parts, such as interior or suspension components. I am more skilled with using brushes, but I liked the idea of coating a large number of parts rapidly all at once. Airbrushes are most likley less wasteful, but I'm trying to keep some of my costs down. Any ideas/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. On a side note: I'm currently working on a Tamiya Nissan 300zx (I'll post some pics soon), using a Testors one coat laquar paint. For some reason, every paint job I do gets orange peel or it too flat. Sometimes it's not too bad, other times it can be awful and require a sanding. I have the can pretty close to the model, and the outside temp is about 65 F, but I just can't get it that glossy. Any tips would help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miatatom Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 If the surface is pretty smooth after applying the color, you could consider using Pledge Floor Care Tile & Vinyl Floor Finish with Future Shine. It can be brushed on. I've airbrushed it and it really is easy to use. Here's a discussion on it. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8964&hl= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High octane Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 I often spray a number of parts with a rattle can, in fact I also use the rattle can to paint the bodies as well. I usually get a piece of cardboard and put a few strips of masking tape folded over so that it's sticky on both sides, onto the cardboard. Then after you've trimmed your parts from the trees and sanded the mold lines, set them on the strips of tape and spray away. In regards to your orange peel, are you sanding your primer with 600 or 1000 grit paper before painting your color coats? You should. Holding your can to far from the body or using slow passes with the rattle can will cause orange peel also. You can practice these things on an empty water bottle, as you don't need a model car body for this. Try it. I hope this helps you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scuderia Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 I shoot as much as I can while on the tree with a can. Flat black, Satin black, Aluminum are my staples. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinfan5 Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 You are using a lacquer based paint, lacquer will always dry with a little bit of texture to it, good advice was already given about wetsanding the primer before and during color coats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swamp Dog Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 i been using rattle can ever since i started buildng around 8 yrs old ,and still at it at the age of 59..i have 2 air brush if i need them..rattle cans are your way to go... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbluesd Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 Before I got my airbrush I rattle canned nearly all of my parts. First thing I'd do is pick the most common color in a kit and mark every part that was this color... then use wire snippers to cut the sprue into sections with all of the like-color parts in each section. A little time consuming up front but after I got that done it would take me 5 minutes to have every piece of the kit painted. The only downside was that there is so much wasted paint and it was hard getting detailed parts to look good because of the amount of paint I was throwing on them. Also some hard to reach spots (like the corners of an interior tub) were hard to get without drowning the rest of the part in paint. Also orange peel on all parts was a constant when I did it that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foxer Posted March 24, 2014 Share Posted March 24, 2014 I use rattle cans as much as I can .. even for bodies. I go through metalizers and various blacks like soup. I have good air brushes but they are just a pain to clean up and use so I onlu use when I need a color that's not available in rattle cans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GundamFundam Posted March 25, 2014 Author Share Posted March 25, 2014 Thanks for the replies. I'll look into using future, seems like a good idea. Although, I heard it seems to have problems after some time, such as yellowing and cracking. I'm not too sure about that, so correct me if I'm mistaken. I'll see if I can pick up a can of semigloss black, sounds like it'll speed up my kits abit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miatatom Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 I'll look into using future, seems like a good idea. Although, I heard it seems to have problems after some time, such as yellowing and cracking. I'm not too sure about that, so correct me if I'm mistaken. I don't have a lot of experience with it but from what I've read here on the forum, it doesn't yellow or crack. Here are some references: http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37Wmy3HqHg8#t=0 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8964&page=9 http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=86705#entry1132789 http://ilovewood001.tripod.com/modeling/future.html http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=77351#entry979093 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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