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Taking baby steps


MitchP

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Hey folks!

I've only been on here now and then, mostly learning and posting a few pics of my first builds, which are (still) unpainted due to bad weather and waiting for one of those $80 vacuum paint booths.

Here's a pic of my 1st detailed build, an Iaconia pro stock:

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which makes four kits backed up for painting! The other 3 are basically one color jobs anyway.

I'm nowhere near the level of Brett, Chris, Jeff or some other friends I've made here trying to learn from, but I'm trying to practice mixing styrene and resin parts along with detail on items like this 426 Hemi. With dual mags and twin plugs per cyl, It's hard for these tired old hands to work, especially with pain meds for my back. And camera upgrade money goes for parts LOL. Any, this engine will have a rubber cogged belt, fuel pump with rubber hoses and a mix of RB and Pro Tech fittings, some PE parts for the homemade barrel valve and fuel dist block. The blower is a Kobelco from Ted's and casting is good. I may sneak in some braided line or soft alum from the dist block to the injectors.

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The paints are all Tamiya spray metal variations which I really like. As you can tell, acrylics can tend to flake off (injector butterflies) before you're completely done with the painting. The finer touches are Tamiya acrylic and the attempt to create the heat tarnished on the headers is clear yellow, red and blue. I'd be interested in what you think of the header appearance and the engine in general. I know there's a long way to go, but I've got as many models as it takes to improve from flea markets!

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I'm honored that you count me among that lineup Mitch, means a lot actually :) . You may want to add a bit more blue to the headers but I really like the various metal shades you've used. I dont use acrylics for painting so cant advise you on how to do a wash to add shadows etc in case it makes your other paint run. The only other advice I'd give you with the funny car engine is, the plug wires going to the drivers side( well the left hand side I should say ) go under the top pulley. Makes it a little tight when the belt goes on but will look more realistic (also then they wont interfere with any injector plumbing). You are improving in leaps and bounds my friend, keep up the great work ! :)

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Thanks al! It means a lot to share with other hobbyists. I've learned one major lesson - I get caught up in the engine/chassis and neglect the body because I'm a paranoid painter! My wife said I should work on my detailing skills and then auction the unfinished kit on Ebay to someone with finishing skills!!!

I need all the advice and direction I can get. I've been thinking I'm trying for too much detail and not enough quality. That blower hat came from Ross Gibson I'm pretty sure and yes, the wires should go under the top pulley and behind the fuel pump/belt. It was crazy enough wiring a twin plug per cyl!

It's going in a McEwen Revell '57 stretched funny car and I'm dropping the electrical box out of the setup which mounts to the frame rails behind the fuel cell. There's a really nice pre-molded twin oil filter setup and I'm using the extra space for room to work and not get sloppy. I've prepared 2 MSD 6AL boxes, one for each mag, to mount on the frame. The only major mod left is figuring out how much of the inner tinwork to remove so that the back of the blower hat fits when you close the body. I won't post every little pic - the next update will be with the drive train installed, fuel and oil plumbing and wheels. I've got the stock Cragar holed rims, a couple sets of Glidden rims and some Shoebox Ford type rear rims along with P/E beadlocks for the rear. I've also got those modern F/C Pegasus rims for the front, although I might be holding them out for the LAPD build that's getting a full Sonny Leonard P/M engine.

Any recommendations or favorite ideas for the wheels?

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