Cien1986 Posted April 29, 2014 Share Posted April 29, 2014 Hi all MCM friends I want to share my new project which is Monogram 1/12 Mercedes 300SL Gullwing the box can tell this is real old plastic model kit... i buy this kit from ebay and unfortunately this kit don't come with instruction manual when it shipped... but i manage to get the instruction manual from scalemotorcars friends DominiqueBeerts many thanks for the help... what i find when iam unboxing this kit is... the part organization is real mess... some part comes pre-cut from spruce it makes real difficult to identify the product... the molding is rough too.... but its usual problem with old injection kit ... then i try to snap fit the body, under panel, door, trunk and hood... and what surprise me... it not fit well... the door is like bending so there is a large gap between part.... the same condition apply to hood and other panel too..... so i preheat it with a candle and bend it slowly to achieve the shape that will fit... but on some place its not bendable.. the conclusion is this nightmare in car modelling... this is the picture of the kit when i try to snap fit it i use transparent tape to hold it in position and try to press it for minimal the gap this is the scale compare to my other model... after snap fit the kit i start working on trimming the front fender and lowererd the upper body part to make the kit fit properly, and then sanding the sink mark and mold line..... here is some progress on sanding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinky Posted April 29, 2014 Share Posted April 29, 2014 Very cool project, im going to follow this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennyboy Posted April 29, 2014 Share Posted April 29, 2014 I'll be following this as well! I want one of these kits (being a large scale builder of course I do!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno Posted April 29, 2014 Share Posted April 29, 2014 Oh, boy! I've toyed with the idea of tackling one of these. Now I can just watch your build to see how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted April 29, 2014 Share Posted April 29, 2014 Looks like you're making excellent progress. The kit is loaded with sink marks, mold lines and body ripples, and I think you're doing quite well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davewilly Posted May 1, 2014 Share Posted May 1, 2014 I just picked up one at the Desert scale classic in April....Mine also has no instruction sheet with it either...So I will be watching this thread to see how yours comes out. I think mine is a older release...not that that will make the fit any better.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XJ6 Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 Super Super Super..... Keep it going...Like!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 (edited) I just picked up one at the Desert scale classic in April....Mine also has no instruction sheet with it either...So I will be watching this thread to see how yours comes out. I think mine is a older release...not that that will make the fit any better.. FYI, the kit was originally issued by Renwal. The instructions that Henry is referring to can be found here... http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=935 As you look at the instructions, you'll find one large error in the kit; they call for the water tank to be mounted to the radiator. This is wrong - it should be mounted just in front of the firewall on the passenger side. In the 1:1, it's attached to a portion of the spaceframe inside the right fender; since the kit doesn't replicate the spaceframe, other means will have to be improvised. Here's a closer look. Edited May 2, 2014 by sjordan2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davewilly Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 FYI, the kit was originally issued by Renwal. The instructions that Henry is referring to can be found here... http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=935 As you look at the instructions, you'll find one large error in the kit; they call for the water tank to be mounted to the radiator. This is wrong - it should be mounted just in front of the firewall on the passenger side. In the 1:1, it's attached to a portion of the spaceframe inside the right fender; since the kit doesn't replicate the spaceframe, other means will have to be improvised. Here's a closer look. Thanks for the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted May 2, 2014 Share Posted May 2, 2014 (edited) Among the other errors and omissions, you'll notice that the shift lever is totally weird, The kit lever is snaky and should be totally straight in that position. I think the kit makers misunderstood that the first 50 Gullwings had a "gooseneck" shift lever mounted over the transmission under the dash, and coming back into the cockpit, but everything after that had a straight vertical shift lever on the tunnel. I would add that there is no particularly good Gullwing kit available. The best are in 1/16. The Minicraft version is the only one with a spaceframe, and the Italeri version has a more detailed engine and chrome parts, though the body shape needs work because the fenders are too bulbous and the doors don't fit well. It would be good to have both kits available as reference for the 1/12 build. Edited May 2, 2014 by sjordan2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cien1986 Posted May 3, 2014 Author Share Posted May 3, 2014 FYI, the kit was originally issued by Renwal. The instructions that Henry is referring to can be found here... http://www.scalemotorcars.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=935 As you look at the instructions, you'll find one large error in the kit; they call for the water tank to be mounted to the radiator. This is wrong - it should be mounted just in front of the firewall on the passenger side. In the 1:1, it's attached to a portion of the spaceframe inside the right fender; since the kit doesn't replicate the spaceframe, other means will have to be improvised. Here's a closer look. Many thanks for the info.. I will take a closer look about that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cien1986 Posted May 3, 2014 Author Share Posted May 3, 2014 Here is some preview of the kit before i sand it you can see the door fit is teriible.. this is the fender Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cien1986 Posted May 3, 2014 Author Share Posted May 3, 2014 (edited) here is some progress that i made to the roof try to fit and sand it.. Edited May 3, 2014 by Cien1986 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cien1986 Posted May 3, 2014 Author Share Posted May 3, 2014 start to prime the engine and add putty to flatten the sink mark i usually light sand the part then prime it to have a clear view to the defect area... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 When the engine is mounted, it tilts over to the left. The fuel injection system is virtually invisible at that point, and I wouldn't bother with it - especially adding the injector lines - (except to feel satisfied with knowing it's there). With the belly pan in place, especially since it's molded on, you can't even see it from the underside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cien1986 Posted May 4, 2014 Author Share Posted May 4, 2014 When the engine is mounted, it tilts over to the left. The fuel injection system is virtually invisible at that point, and I wouldn't bother with it - especially adding the injector lines - (except to feel satisfied with knowing it's there). With the belly pan in place, especially since it's molded on, you can't even see it from the underside. Yeah i just realize it too the engine tilt abit.. haha... at first i want to add injector line to it using thin brass line... but it seems it will stuck with steering shaft, because there is a cutting curve at the left side of the engine block near the fuel line for the shaft to pass through so i change my mind... its invincible no one can see it after assembly., Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennyboy Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Sanding is looking great! I'll drop these in here for some more "inspiration" This is how I want to do one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Sometimes knowing too much about a life-long dream car can be disappointing. By the way, that has absolutely nothing to do with your project, Henry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 (edited) Sometimes knowing too much about a life-long dream car can be disappointing. By the way, that has absolutely nothing to do with your project, Henry. I assume you're talking about me. I have made three small suggestions about improving major kit errors, all easy to fix. Do you have this kit? Can you tell me what suggestions you find objectionable or over the top? Edited May 4, 2014 by sjordan2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Anyway, notwithstanding some carping, this tutorial on fixing the notorious body seam on the 1/8 XK-E may be helpful in fixing the fender seam on the Gullwing: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=64075 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cien1986 Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share Posted May 5, 2014 Sometimes knowing too much about a life-long dream car can be disappointing. By the way, that has absolutely nothing to do with your project, Henry. Haha thanks for the opinion no offense, but in my perception when you know nothing or just alittle bit about it, you will never understand how valuable or how precious the thing is.. So when you know you'll love Absolutely nothing to do with this kit... mean absolutely trash this kit... its impossible to finnish even you built it standart out of box.. the kit is just too rough in every aspect compare it to kit from latest production of tamiya... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cien1986 Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share Posted May 5, 2014 Sanding is looking great! I'll drop these in here for some more "inspiration" This is how I want to do one. Very2 nice design many thanks for aspiration.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cien1986 Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share Posted May 5, 2014 Anyway, notwithstanding some carping, this tutorial on fixing the notorious body seam on the 1/8 XK-E may be helpful in fixing the fender seam on the Gullwing: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=64075 That is really give me idea how to minimize the gap... many2 thanks for the information... and many thanks for always support me... By guessing your understanding about this kit i assume you have one of this and finished tackling it would you mind let me take a look? Hahaha.,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cien1986 Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share Posted May 5, 2014 Anyway, notwithstanding some carping, this tutorial on fixing the notorious body seam on the 1/8 XK-E may be helpful in fixing the fender seam on the Gullwing: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=64075 do you have a better idea how to fix the door? i bend it using candle light..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjordan2 Posted May 5, 2014 Share Posted May 5, 2014 do you have a better idea how to fix the door? i bend it using candle light..... I've never found a Gullwing kit with a particularly good door fit - most of these kits are decades old. You could try soaking the doors in hot water (not boiling). You could try a test fit with the interior door panels in place, which may affect the outer doors. Also, the door handle/lock actually works and closes the door in a slot in the door sill; (however, the parts are plastic and that might create a bit too much stress). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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