Metalmad Posted May 12, 2014 Posted May 12, 2014 (edited) Started a new build which will be a Tony Nancy Revell Liner Dragster and this build will be a bit of a challenge for me since this will be my first attempt at building a Dragster. Started on the main part of the frame & Motor & will replace the rear two piece slicks with one piece slicks. Edited May 27, 2014 by Metalmad
Metalmad Posted May 12, 2014 Author Posted May 12, 2014 Does anyone no what the base color is for the body panel ? Looks like a light orange to me but not sure since there are not very many good pictures out there of this dragster with much detail. Thank You
Daddyfink Posted May 12, 2014 Posted May 12, 2014 I painted mine Tamiya Camel Yellow. It has a slight orange tint to it and was the closes match I could find.
Metalmad Posted May 13, 2014 Author Posted May 13, 2014 If anyone has built this kit is there any issues with the assembly ? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Art Laski Posted May 15, 2014 Posted May 15, 2014 Nice to see you back at it so soon, Seth. This should be a great project! -Art
Daddyfink Posted May 15, 2014 Posted May 15, 2014 Some of the parts for the rear wing are pretty fiddly and fragile, other than that, patience is your friend!
Metalmad Posted May 15, 2014 Author Posted May 15, 2014 (edited) Thank you for the info on the wing Jesse ! and I learned a lot from building the Bee and that was to be more patient while building. Art thank you also ! & I hope to have this finished for the show in Oct. Edited May 19, 2014 by Metalmad
Metalmad Posted May 16, 2014 Author Posted May 16, 2014 Forgot to mention that I actually was given this kit from Tony Nancy back in 2002 so this build will be a tribute to Tony.
Metalmad Posted May 19, 2014 Author Posted May 19, 2014 (edited) I have been smoothing out the frame which has turned out to be quit a task in itself because of the way it had to be molded so most of the casting lines are on top of the frame rails and on the bottom so it has been very time consuming to sand every rail of the frame. Was able to get the block , blower ,intake , headers,seat & oil pan in primer today but still have a little work to do on the front of the intake. Progress will be slow on this build even though there are not very many parts to this kit but will be adding some details as the fuel lines & other details. Edited May 19, 2014 by Metalmad
John Teresi Posted May 19, 2014 Posted May 19, 2014 Seth…….this is a good project for you…….I`m sure you will do a Fantastic job…….i will be watching buddy
Metalmad Posted May 27, 2014 Author Posted May 27, 2014 Was able to get a little work done on the Dragster this weekend. The frame still needs work done to get the mold lines off. I got the engine painted & partially assembled, removed the chrome from the wheels & blower & have been airbrushed with aclad chrome.I also have been working on a few of the body panels also which they should be ready for some primer soon.
Metalmad Posted May 27, 2014 Author Posted May 27, 2014 I noticed the wheels did not look that good after the alclad was applied so I applied another light coat & they look a lot better now.
slusher Posted May 27, 2014 Posted May 27, 2014 Nice progress Seth. Your going to do great on this build after being so patient on the Super Bee..
Metalmad Posted May 30, 2014 Author Posted May 30, 2014 Worked on a couple of the body panels that I had primered & the panels still need a little work yet. I'm also trying to figure out to assemble the injector hat which is halved into two parts & the blades are separate also. I'm a stickler for detail so I will be trying to cover up the glue lines where the injector hat glues together & also have the blades functional.
jwrass Posted May 30, 2014 Posted May 30, 2014 Seth, Many of the Revell cars had a contract with Bob Gerdes Circus Paint in N.J. All of the Revell cars on the east coast were painted at Gerdes shop. However many of the cars on the west coast that were sponsored by Revell were shipped to the east coast for paint due to the relationship Circus had with Revell, with the possible exception of arraignments that my have been made with Don Kirby on the west coast due to match race schedules. I have two friends who worked for Bob during the Hey Day. Nothing that was sprayed on any of those cars was conventional. Candies and Pearls were their flavor. Being a custom painter myself of some 35+ years this is how I see it, (I have the same kit waiting in the vault to be built) all the cars back in the day were Lacquer Based which is hard to find let alone in any type of custom paint format. I have two options you could try: 1) House of Kolor Lime Gold over White Pearl. This would be the closest 1:1 match. Bring the Lime Gold on slow ( very lite coats) I know the Lime Gold sounds strange, however when this is applies over Pearl White it looks Yellow. Again bring the color on slow. I did a crotch rocket a few years ago with this as the main color with candy overlays and it looked awesome. 2) I don't have much experience with Auto Air Colors (although some) they have a Wicked line of paint and I would try their Wicked Yellow W011 over White Pearl. Auto Air has a extender that will make any of their products more transparent (Candy like) About Auto Air: I have been experimenting with their products ( I get free samples as they would like me to convert) and I like them allot and may convert at sometime. The only problem with Auto Air on 1:1 that I have found is tape tracks and edge peeling at graphic lines, they are getting better but I use caution when I do this type of work with their paints. As always use test panels for colors. Document your coats, flash times and techniques. I still do this and I have been painting for a long time. I hope this helps!!! if you have any questions give me a shout!!!! JW "RASS"
Metalmad Posted June 1, 2014 Author Posted June 1, 2014 James thank you for the tips on the paint colors & I was also looking at the the colors from HOK which you can purchase in 4oz bottles as for right now I'm working on the top & bottom body panel fitment to the frame and it has been a bit of a pain. I had to cut the front half of the frame down the middle since the width of the frame is a little to wide for the top & bottom body panels to sit correctly on the frame so this will be a slow build for me since it is my first dragster build also. And thanks again James on the paint colors I appreciate the help.
jwrass Posted June 2, 2014 Posted June 2, 2014 Seth, You are very welcome!!! There is one thing I forgot to mention about the paint. You mentioned that the color looked to have a slight orange cast. Back in the day we used to use a pearl that was called Murano Pearl and their were several shades of Murano. At the time (70s) this was the closest we had to a color shift type effect. Murano had a very HIGH content of lead and was banned by the end that era. It came in a paste form. I still have a jar of Silver and Gold and it's worth it's weight in gold, very rare. I do use HOK, AutoAir and PPG pearls, however there is a brand I use that is sold in big box Hobby Stores made by the Jacquard Co under the name Pearl Ex. It's inexpensive has many colors to choose from and works with all types of paint (powder form) If you want a slight orange cast to go with what I recommended Pearl Ex would be a good product. I use it all the time and have never had a problem!! It is pretty concentrated so a little go's along way!!!! Again test panels are your best friend. I use powder coated license plate blanks for test panels, you can get them from most sign supply houses. Coast Air Brush has them and I find them a great source, I buy from them on a regular basis. The owner Dave Monning is a great guy and most of the people who work for him are air brush artists of some description and are very knowledgeable. I am looking so forward to watching this build as you progress!!! If you have any questions feel free to contact me. You have great skills!!! I know you are going to knock that paint job out of the park!!! Jimmy "RASS"
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