crazyrichard Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 nice nice !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted October 5, 2014 Author Share Posted October 5, 2014 (edited) I didn't like the driver's side frame gusset, so I made another one. Drilled some holes in the suspension units for the king pins and the wheel support arms. Mocking it up I realized my crossmember is too short to allow the units to turn properly. Back to the drawing board.... Edited January 21, 2021 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted October 5, 2014 Author Share Posted October 5, 2014 (edited) More work on the front suspension units. I find the wheel support arms too thick in the middle. Will have to whittle them down.....gingerly. At least you can see how it all goes together. Edited November 2, 2014 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted October 7, 2014 Author Share Posted October 7, 2014 (edited) After a huge battle to create something that would allow poseable steering, I just gave up and glued the front suspension units in place. I retrieved my state of the art spray booth from the attic and gave a first coat of primer to some of the parts. Edited November 2, 2014 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charliechaindrive Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 Looking great! Mixing die cast, resin and styrene in one model is an interesting way to get a unique car. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsxse240 Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 That's one heckuva spray booth! Does it work well? Just curious because I was just planning on a range hood turned up on its back and some cheap paneling for top/sides and floor. I love your work so far. I wish I had the ambition to tackle such a task. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted October 9, 2014 Author Share Posted October 9, 2014 That's one heckuva spray booth! Does it work well? It's an old microwave oven. I have a fuzzy cotton batting taped behind the fan. In theory it is supposed to catch the overspray. In practice, it does catch it but creates a blockage for the air and there is some blowback when using a spray can. Not as much when using an airbrush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted October 9, 2014 Author Share Posted October 9, 2014 (edited) Sometimes I go over my threads to see if I missed anything. In post #20 I had mentioned looking for my old styrene stash to modify the frame and not finding it. Well I found it...looking for something else of course. The stash contained some tubing that would be more appropriate for the driveshaft guard underneath the frame. So I made a new one. Then I saw Brewster's suggestion of using the '36 Ford's roof. I suddenly remembered I had bought the Dick Tracy version. So I set out looking for it. With all this rummaging, things are slowly migrating to the same place. I tried it on to see. That would likely be a lot of work and the rear would have tobe replaced with that of the'34 which is more square. Edited January 29, 2021 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted October 9, 2014 Author Share Posted October 9, 2014 (edited) Which gave me another idea. Now that the doors are glued shut, it would theoretically be possible to fill in the trailing edge opening line and score another one further back. Then I'd have to get another '34 Ford to get a full length roof. I think the proportions would be better. However that is easier said than done. Your everyday scriber wouldn't catch it here. I'm open to suggestions as to how to do this. Edited January 29, 2021 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted October 9, 2014 Author Share Posted October 9, 2014 (edited) Took the wheels out to the garage and gave a shot of orange paint to the insides. Paint recedes on a few of them. I suddenly remembered I forgot to wash them as they had oil in them to turn freely. Goes to show how rusty I am at all this. Edited January 29, 2021 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan barton Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 Hey Pat, I've done that! You think "Ooooh, I'll just paint those parts while I've got a minute" and then you have a little brain fade and then you're back to the whole strip, clean sand routine. Stuff happens! I have done a bit of work on diecast before, though not as extensive as what you' re tackling, and I use either a razor saw or a junior hacksaw to cut a new door line into the surface of the diecast. The razor saw does a better job but it does take the edge off the teeth somewhat. The junior hacksaw is better cutting but has a wider blade. Run a couple of strips of masking tape down each side of your line to protect the surface and stop the blade skipping. If you are not using it already, JB Weld is a metal based expoxy in two tubes that is simply the best product for gluing and filling diecast. Good luck with your project _ I have wanted to tackle a 34 Chevy street rod for years and I didn't know this Danbury diecast existed til I read your post. Cheers Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted October 9, 2014 Author Share Posted October 9, 2014 Hey Pat, I've done that! You think "Ooooh, I'll just paint those parts while I've got a minute" and then you have a little brain fade and then you're back to the whole strip, clean sand routine. Stuff happens! I have done a bit of work on diecast before, though not as extensive as what you' re tackling, and I use either a razor saw or a junior hacksaw to cut a new door line into the surface of the diecast. The razor saw does a better job but it does take the edge off the teeth somewhat. The junior hacksaw is better cutting but has a wider blade. Run a couple of strips of masking tape down each side of your line to protect the surface and stop the blade skipping. If you are not using it already, JB Weld is a metal based expoxy in two tubes that is simply the best product for gluing and filling diecast. Good luck with your project _ I have wanted to tackle a 34 Chevy street rod for years and I didn't know this Danbury diecast existed til I read your post. Cheers Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 (edited) I wonder what happened above? Probably tried to quote and it didn't work. Using a support to keep the frame level I attached the wheel arms to the suspension units. Had to have the fenders on too to get the clearance right. So, following on my idea in post #84, I decided to put the roof back to its original length. Luckily, I still had the strip I had cut out of it. Once it was back together, I started filling gaps and holes. I think these proportions are closer to the real thing. Edited January 29, 2021 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
impcon Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 This project is one that I have been following and am in total awe of. Clearly, this is a labor of love and you evidently have some serious time invested here. looking at the real 1:1 roof on your car and the one on the model, it almost looks as if you have some room there to extend and properly shape that rear side window opening to closer resemble the real thing. A small alteration on that window would maybe bring everything else regarding your roof and door challenges more into perspective - or am I wrong? I realize that the plastic roof has more of a slope to the back side of it, but it may be worth considering altering that window on a piece of cardboard with an outline of the kit roof drawn on it and seeing what may work. Just a suggestion. The real car is stunning and looking at what you started with, you have my deepest respect for your commitment and workmanship to say nothing of patience and vision. your car goes to show what can be done if a person just perseveres and hangs in there and keeps on keepin' on. Outstanding!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 Thanks Gary. One of the members on this forum, Mr.Fractalign is making me a proper rear window. Thanks for the kind words. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted October 16, 2014 Author Share Posted October 16, 2014 (edited) Sanded yesterday's putty application and added more. Edited January 29, 2021 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted October 19, 2014 Author Share Posted October 19, 2014 (edited) More sanding, more putty. Edited January 29, 2021 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted October 19, 2014 Author Share Posted October 19, 2014 (edited) As a relief to the putty and sanding I took out the seat and compared it to the 1:1's. To approximate that look, I decided to fill some seams to create alternating narrow and wide pleats. Made a paper pattern of the Standard's dash surface and transferred it to styrene which I glued in place. A reduced photo of the Master dash will go there. Edited January 29, 2021 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted October 19, 2014 Author Share Posted October 19, 2014 (edited) Well, there are days like this. I figured I'd give a coat of primer to the seat and body to see the effect of the filler on the seat and how the sealing of the door opening line is coming along. The seat, not being hard plastic turned gummy with the primer. As I was turning the car around in the spray booth, it fell to the ground and broke in three pieces. Put the body back together , put the seat aside in case it needs more time to cure and started playing with a fuel line for the engine. Edited January 30, 2021 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted October 21, 2014 Author Share Posted October 21, 2014 (edited) More sanding & putty. We're getting there with the door seam. The seam would be easy if all was molded together but the door and body are on slightly different planes. So I have to level it all off. Started looking through my models for one willing to sacrifice its spare tire wells. Finally found a Monogram Metal Master kit someone had given me. That will be the donor. Took an outline of the well opening and transferred it to the Chevy. Now that is cast metal. This is where I need suggestions on how to open this up. I am thinking of drilling a hole at each end and cutting the sides with a cutoff wheel on a rotary tool. Any other ideas? Edited January 30, 2021 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted October 22, 2014 Author Share Posted October 22, 2014 (edited) Reduced a photo of the 1:1's actual dash and fitted it to the model's. Not perfect but at least it looks like a Master. Edited January 30, 2021 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted October 24, 2014 Author Share Posted October 24, 2014 (edited) Tonight I opened up the fenders to fit the spare tire wells. Nothing is straightforward. I noticed that the wells didn't clear the screw bosses inside the fenders. So I removed some plastic there. Then they went in but didn't seat because of the different radius of the fenders. Took more plastic off. Got them so they would seat. Next came where to cut. I drilled through the screw bosses to make sure I didn't cut through them. Then I drilled some pilot holes at the ends of the openings followed by a 1/4" hole. Then I cut inside the lines with a cutting disc in my rotary tool. With the well in place, I gradually enlarged the hole to match the well's opening. Edited January 30, 2021 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted October 25, 2014 Author Share Posted October 25, 2014 (edited) Completed opening the sidemount well holes. Turns out that they don't clear the screw bosses in the frame which are somewhat larger than the ones in the body. So I took more off. Epoxied the wells in place. Sanded and puttied some more on the body. It is starting to look like sidemounted 5-window coupe. Long ways to go yet. Edited January 30, 2021 by landman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyrichard Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 awsome job !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter31a Posted October 26, 2014 Share Posted October 26, 2014 Wow! Very cool project. Coming along nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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