Big Kahuna - 1/16 F/C - New Body Arrived - 1/12

[Nitrozilla]

I'm not sure if this is possible for me, but I will attempt this build straight out of the box. Well, almost. I do need to get some Slixx tire markings. None come with the sheet provided. Hopefully my color choices will curb the desire to go totally wackadoodle as I do on so many of my projects. The plan is to knock it out, then get back on the Quarter Master 4 engine Charger.

What you see here represents 3 days of parts clean up. Removing all seams, ejector marks and initial blending of sub assemblies. Already ran into a fitment issue with the main tin piece. First of all, as you can see in the first picture, it's warped. That will correct itself during assembly. Secondly, the upper dash had to be sanded repeatedly on the sides to get a flush fit in the body.

During mock up I'll decide how to correct the stance to something more eye appealing than the over high rear tire clearance. First guess is to raise the rear differential mounts. That will probably lead to other changes, such as the drive shaft coming up to hit the seat bottom. We'll see.

Before y'all ask, I'll decide on body color while I'm standing in front of the paint rack at my local auto parts store. I do know one thing. It's not going to be blue.

Edited January 13, 2015 by Nitrozilla

[AZ Boy]

This is 1320Wayne's PDF tutorial on lowering a Revell funnycar. I hope this will help.

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=12334

[AZ Boy]

This is the same technique I used on the Rambunctious Charger. Works like a charm.

Edited July 30, 2014 by AZ Boy

[am73grand]

Where's the popcorn? I'll be watching this one!!!

[Nitrozilla]

Thanx a group. Exactly what I need. I was actually going to do step one, but wasn't aware of the other tricks with the rollcage and tin work mods.

I put the pdf with my picture files so I'll know where it is when I get to that point.

Edited July 30, 2014 by Nitrozilla

[W-409]

Box Stock? .... You're..... Building a.... Box Stock...? Really??

Just kidding of course. But honestly, the last thing I could wait for when I opened this Drag Racing Models section was seeing you building something straight out of the box. Anyway it's interesting to see how this turns out. Cleaning up the mold lines and ejector pin marks etc can be really annoying, but you're doing a nice job with those parts. I can't wait to see more.

[cobraman]

I will also be looking in.

[Nitrozilla]

Box Stock? .... You're..... Building a.... Box Stock...? Really??

Just kidding of course. But honestly, the last thing I could wait for when I opened this Drag Racing Models section was seeing you building something straight out of the box. Anyway it's interesting to see how this turns out. Cleaning up the mold lines and ejector pin marks etc can be really annoying, but you're doing a nice job with those parts. I can't wait to see more.

.....and there's the reaction I've been waiting for.

Let's not forget, I have built out of the box before, just not a car.

[DynoMight]

You can do it..

You can do it..

You can do it..

You can do it..

Resist the urge..

Resist the urge..

Build box stock..

Build box stock..

You can do it..

Did my hypnosis work?

[shift13]

Im doing the same, no alterations just for review but first job with metalizer

[Nitrozilla]

***** I can do it ***** Resist the urge to build box stock ***** Wait, what?

Are you a professional hypnotister? I did fall asleep watching TV a minute ago. Why do I want to watch an OSU halftime video on YouTube?

[Truck parts]

How it all works out

[Nitrozilla]

Here's how it's working out so far. Got the axle mounts moved. Since this is a "load bearing" joint, I thought it best to add a little piece to mount on the inner frame for support.

Found another warpage issue in the rear frame body mounts. Shouldn't be a major big deal to fix with a Bic lighter and crossed eyes. Everything else frame-wise looks fine.

Decided on paint already. Body and tin work will be gold, frame and accessories blue, engine silver with blue and gold accents. I'll have specifics when I pick up the paint tomorrow.

[Nitrozilla]

I think Mark Twain said, "Only a fool takes his own advice." Never, never ever use a Bic lighter on thin rods. They tend to twist and warp. So I cut away the damage after measuring for new tubes and I like the result. That was almost a disaster.

Still putting the frame together. Need to narrow the seat because instructions show it going in during assembly. Wait, maybe if I use a lighter to tweak the frame..........naw, narrow the seat.

Think I'll go paint shopping.

[Mister Twister]

Keep at it!!

[Nitrozilla]

I'm on it Darryl !!!

This time, fixing the fix. Apparently what happened is, when I installed the plastic tubing to replace the bent rods, a build up of heat from the glue softened the tubes, which bent. Now I am reinforcing that with aluminum tubing. No more flexing !!! However, that also means I can't spread them to install the tin work in the pivots, so I opened up the top of the frame mounts.

NOW it's fixed.

Also wanted to show you the paints I picked out. I haven't work with an Acrylic Lacquer before. At least, not that I'm aware of. What's good for clean up, lacquer thinner? Also, what's a compatible clear coat? Can I hit it with a straight acrylic?

Enjoy the pics.

[MADDOG]

I am also in the middle of building this same kit.

[Nitrozilla]

Im doing the same, no alterations just for review but first job with metalizer

I am also in the middle of building this same kit.

.....and Captain Destructo (that's me) makes 3.

[Hawk312]

Duplicolor is great stuff! For clean up, I just use regular off the shelf lacquer thinner. For clear coat, I just use their clear from the can. It should have been on the shelf with the other colors. Here is my Camaro which was finished with duplicolor colors and clear:

[Nitrozilla]

Wow David. Black is, to me, the hardest color to lay down. That is incredible.

I feel really good about my choice now. Thanx.

[10thumbs]

David, that's a model? I need to practice.

Michael

[Mooneyzs]

Joe... This is gonna be a great build. I know the labor pains of taking the time to clean up the mold lines but it will be worth all that time to clean up when it comes time to paint.

[Nitrozilla]

Thanx for the words of encouragement Chris. It's been a challenge, as it should be. Especially after you remove 6 defects from one part, then find 2 more. I also now understand your obsession with rivets. My obsession has been to preserve as many molded in rivets as possible. lol

All white parts have been washed and ready for paint. Still have the chrome to knock out tonite. Something tells me about 60% is going to get de-chromed either due to seams or the fact that "It ain't sposed to be chrome."

It actually rained today, but I think tomorrow will be spray bomb compliant.

Edit: Just found pic of car with canards. Where have I seen these before?

Edited August 4, 2014 by Nitrozilla

[Nitrozilla]

Just so everybody knows, I'm still in progress here. Over the last 2 days I've cleaned up and de-chromed everything on the tree except the wheels. Lot's of teeny tiny parts. As far as when it might get paint, the sun is back out for the next week and reasonable temperatures: 97 to 100.

I also took the 2 separate body support rods and turned it into a full blown one piece body brace.

Hopefully some pics tonite.

Okay? Okay.

Edited August 5, 2014 by Nitrozilla

[Nitrozilla]

Amazing the silly things you do when you're trying to paint while on most excellent pain meds. It's been an adventure, but I spent the entire day painting and correcting mistakes and forgetting to glue together sub assemblies. Still have the body to do, but I'm almost out of Gold paint. Have to say I love these paints. Fast dry, easy edge clean up, fast dry, consistent color, fast dry, one coat coverage and it dries fast.

Next comes detail paint, nuts, bolts, etc. Should be able to start on the engine soon. Might make a cradle. Lot's of handling needed with fuel / oil / ignition plumbing to do.

I still owe y'all a picture of the body brace, but, well, um, refer to the statement above.

Enjoy the pix.