1935 Ford "Dearborn" C.O.E ,Bogie Drive Car Hauler.

[bpletcher55]

very cool ,i like this project ,

[fractalign]

Hey Guys.

I did not finish the post last night, I literally fell asleep mid upload. Anyway getting back to where I left off last night, here is what I did yesterday.

I turned my attention to the other cab to try and get it the same as this one. To do this I built up the lower windscreen area.

[fractalign]

I used body filler because it sets harder.

Edited September 22, 2014 by fractalign

[fractalign]

Now onto today. The firewall has had me stumped on this one so I pulled the interior bucket out of the box and shoved it inside the cab. I then test fitted the hood only to realise it would not fit. So to solve that problem I trimmed about a millimetre off the front edge. I am starting to get an idea of how the firewall will look, based on the leading edge of the interior bucket.

[fractalign]

Another important thing I have been doing is modifying the fenders so that they will sit evenly around the chassis.

The tabs on either side keep the chassis centred.

[fractalign]

At the front I have also began to reinforce the sides and under the grill shell. Next task will be to finish this area so that the chassis sits evenly inside the fenders and then get back to completing the firewall.

[fractalign]

Hey Guys.

Just a quick update, sorry for the lack of photo's but there is not much to show. I have been continuing reinforcing around the front fenders. I have also started to rebuild the chassis as well. I am in the process of adding new cross members because thew old ones were very untidy. The new cross members will allow the fenders to sit very squarely. All will be revealed tomorrow.

[fractalign]

Hey Guys.

I have been working on upgrading the chassis. The rails were not deep enough so I added box tubing to the top. This will raise the fenders and cab another 2mm or so to give the engine more clearance. Another thing I have been doing is creating the new cross members.

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Here is how it should sit when finished. The extra clearance was needed to stop the air filter from wedging against the bottom of the floor. I already tested engine clearance to find it lacking.

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I have also been reinforcing around the lower cab section. This lower part will act as a shelf for the main part of the cab to fasten to.

[fractalign]

With all the parts together its starting to look a little more like the 1:1 in the original black and white image. Next task will be to finish off the rest of the chassis and lower cab.

[fractalign]

Hey Guys.

I have decided to focus solely on the chassis at the moment because there is so much to do on it.

After using two lengths of box tubing to deepen the rails I filled in all the gaps with body filler, sanded it back and undercoated it. With the rails done i will focus back on completing the cross members which will be my next task.

[biggreenponcho]

Wow, can't wait to see this finished! Terrific and unique build!

[fractalign]

Hey Guys.

Its been nearly two months since I posted anything so I decided to get back into the build properly. I did not stop working on the truck all together, instead I focussed on the chassis. The chassis has been reinforced with 1mm by 1mm box tubing on the inside rails to make it a C frame. New cross members were also been added. The reinforced rails definitely leave no doubts as to this being a truck chassis.

[fractalign]

Yesterday I recommenced working on the cab. There is not much left to do other than make sure the hood and cab sit flush against each other so I spot glued the hood to the cab to begin filling all the gaps.

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Another thing I did was fill in the right hand windscreen pillar to the same thickness as the left one and then put another undercoat on to check how flush the hood and the cab sit. The next task will be to finish the radiator grill surround on the hood and then finish off the hood itself.

[Chariots of Fire]

Hi, Robert. That's coming along nicely. I notice the drip rails at the top of the door line look a bit thin. When I built my '38 COE I sanded them right off and after all of the cab work was done I glued on a strip of 020x030 stock in the same place and then scribed out the top to form a new gutter. It comes out very clean that way.

[fractalign]

Thanks for the feedback Charles.

I will keep that in mind.

[DumpyDan]

Trial and error, is the name of the game, I am liking this project. Keep the pictures coming.

[Chuck Most]

Shaping up very nicely, Robert!

[fractalign]

Hey Guys.

I have not posted anything up about the build since November last year. How time flies, the good news is I have not stopped working on it, I have just had a lot of hurdles. I was never really happy with how the chassis looked so I was lucky enough to find some Google images of the same type as mine. Once I saw the images, I realised everything on mine was wrong so I had to start again. Only the original rails remain, everything else is new and scratch built as well. Even the front leaf spring cross member.

[fractalign]

Originally I was going to use pin heads for the cross member studs, but this was proving too messy so I came up with a simpler neater solution.

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The metallic grey paint is enamel so its less prone to quick drying than acrylic based paint. Hear are the two side studs, I still need to do the top and underside studs.

[fractalign]

The cross member that sits to the in line with the front edge of the rear leaf springs had a very complex shape. The front and rear walls bow out in the centre and the flange at the bottom is pointed rather than arch shaped. You will notice the mounting brackets at the top of the cross member are in the process of being marked out for studs as well.

Edited June 18, 2015 by fractalign

[fractalign]

Here is how the chassis looks with the leaf springs sitting in place.