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1935 Ford "Dearborn" C.O.E ,Bogie Drive Car Hauler.


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I took a completely different approach with this one. While the original was done in stages, for this one I wanted to simplify the process. To do that I used old office paper to make up templates that were wrapped around the front of the cab and cut to shape. Once I was happy with the template, I layed it over the styrene, traced around it and cut the styrene out to the same shape. I wanted to get the bulk of hood shaped from the single piece. This was quite successful up until a point. The more pressure I used to try and get the piece shaped to fit around the front the more it wanted to snap. I heavily reinforced the inside of the hood with body filler which is visible in the gaps at either top corner. I did this in preparation for the heavy sanding that was needed to get the shape right. The corners themselves came about by accident. I was staring at a plastic spoon and then it dawned on me. These would be perfect corners, problem solved. I still have a lot of finishing to do on it but its 100 times better than the other one. It wraps neatly around the front of the interior bucket unlike the original.

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Because this project has been taking me so long I have resorted to a few measures to speed it up. I was going to scratch build the grill using lengths of plastic tubing. These were not fine enough. I had some spare 32 Grill inserts laying about. On closer inspection, I worked out I could use these instead. The plastic tubing will wrap around the perimeter once the insert has been reshaped and lengthened to suit the 35 Grill shell.

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The other thing I decided to do was use the standard front fenders rather than the modified pair I was working on. The modified set had the filler compartment added to it which was proving messy. The fenders shown here are actually the first set that I cast. I will cast another two sets of these over the weekend for the other two trucks and that problem will be solved. Next task will be to finish the hood and grill. 

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Edited by fractalign
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Hey Guys !

I have been slow with uploading progress of the build so I have a quite a bit to show. tonight I started work on the sides of the riser box. Here you can see the position for the steps have been drawn in place. I will be using very fine box tubing for the actual steps themselves

 

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Having looked carefully at the wheel I realised the master was all wrong and I would need to start again. I have lost count of the number of scratch built wheels I have created only to find they were no where near accurate. This time I was going to make sure I got it right. The first thing I did was draw a circle into the styrene with a compass. The pivot point was enlarged and I used Fimo to shape out the punch. This was cut into five sections and these were place evenly around the perimeter of the circle and glued into place. The circle was then cut out and the wheel press was complete. This press was then reinforced with thick balsa wood. More Fimo was roughly shaped out and the wheel press was pushed into it to give the impression. One this rough shape came out of the oven the machining began.

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I used my electric drill as an open ended lathe. I found that when I pushed the wheel to the base of the drill bit near the chuck, the wheel was very stable. There is quite a knack to machining. Too much pressure and wear will be uneven if it flexes. With a stable base I did not have to worry about this. As well I machining I also used a lot of undercoat to saturate the face. This was to get the holes more uniform and smaller as well. More primer and more machining was needed to get the surface to this stage. Comparing the new master to the previous one shows how much closer to the 1:1 this one is. The holes are bigger and the actual surface face is smaller. 1:25 scale so it sits comfortably inside the tyre. The trim that makes up the inner and outer rings for the rim is a lot neater too. The inner one is made from round plastic tubing and the outer one is sheet styrene. Next task will be to join the rims together and continue to refine the holes until its finished.

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Over the weekend I managed to cast up the two sets of fenders as well as a few sets of brakes and tyres. There will be a lot more needed but once the wheel is finished I will cast up several versions of it as well, with and without the studs so I can get all the wheels and tyres cast up.

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Hey Guys.

I managed to find time to do some more work on the wheel. My main concern was getting the holes consistent. Well three of the five are consistent and the other two need some minor work to get them in shape. I used a single wheel punch rather than the whole wheel press to get the holes to this stage. I also gave the wheel a light coat of primer. For the other two holes I will most likely use the same primer but use a small brush to lay it on. I will allow the primer to dry a bit before I use the press on the remaining two holes. Another thing I did was join the outer rim. You can see how much better the wheel looks with the light finish. Its also 1000 times better than my first master.

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The other thing I did was machine the underside. This side will be the visible side at the back so it needs to be as smooth as the other side. I will need to make up the hub and stud assembly as well. I will also need to make up the rim as well. But before I do any of that I will need to get the remaining two holes looking like the other three.

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The latest wheel looks really great.  Can I make a small suggestion?  I'd sand off the lug nuts and then glue on some plastic hex rod.  It will give you nice crisp edges.  The other thing you can do after the hex rod is in place is to drill a hole in the center and glue in a piece of plastic rod the size that the lug would be.  Just snip if off and sand leaving just a bit protruding like it would be on the real wheel.

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Hey Guys.

The wheel is nearly done. The holes are starting to look more uniform. I have been using the single punch to get a consistent finish on each one. I also changed over to a white primer so that I can see the flaws easier.

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There are plenty of flaws too !The old lugs were wrecked from the over spray so I sanded them down and added these ones. To get a smooth finish around the perimeter I will dab some more white primer around it and sand it back when it dries. Then I will mask off the lugs and put a final light undercoat over the surface, lightly sand it back and the wheel will be finished. This will be my last post for a week, as I will be away, when return I will wrap the wheel up and move onto finishing the cab, hood and grill.

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Hey Guys.

I just got back today. While I was away, I was able to pickup some goodies from a cool little hobby store including a couple of kits. The other thing I picked up was some half round. The smaller rod will be to make the swage line along the hood, which I hope to do tomorrow.

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