glue on window

[jpc1968]

Is there anyway to get glue of a window. I was putting in the drivers side glass on a tamiya 959 and my hand slipped and got glue on the clear plastic. Any way to fix this or just order a new parts tree from Tamiya and if that's the only answer how do I go about doing that?

[Ramfins59]

You can try using a polishing kit (progressively finer grits of sanding cloths), or, Novus 2 plastic polish. It will take you awhile, depending on what type of glue you used, but either of these methods should bring the glass back to perfect shape.

[Ace-Garageguy]

As Richard says, you can try sanding and polishing it out. Even if the damage is relatively deep, it WILL work with effort. Start with 400 grit sandpaper and plenty of water. Use a sanding block to avoid getting waviness in the window. Be sure to eliminate all the pits from the solvent with the 400 grit. It will be perfectly smooth, but very dull looking. Progress through the grits (600, 800, 1600, 3200 and on up to 12,000). At 12.000 you should have almost perfectly clear plastic. Use some polish to bring it up the rest of the way.

Edited September 6, 2014 by Ace-Garageguy

[Art Anderson]

As Richard says, you can try sanding and polishing it out. Even if the damage is relatively deep, it WILL work with effort. Start with 400 grit sandpaper and plenty of water. Use a sanding block to avoid getting waviness in the window. Be sure to eliminate all the pits from the solvent with the 400 grit. It will be perfectly smooth, but very dull looking. Progress through the grits (600, 800, 1600, 3200 and on up to 12,000). At 12.000 you should have almost perfectly clear plastic. Use some polish to bring it up the rest of the way.

Great advice as always, Bill! If I were to add just one more thing: I almost always polish window "glass" as part of building, and have found that I can make the glass "so clear it almost seems to disappear" by waxing it as the very last step.

Art

[jpc1968]

Thanks guys. Great help. Do most hobby stores carry the sanding sticks?

[Ace-Garageguy]

These sanding pads work well for the finer grits. You can order them online from a number of places, and the better hobby shops will also have them. As far as the coarser grits, your local auto-parts store will have them in sheets. Get "waterproof" paper. Just glue a piece to a Popsicle stick (rubber or contact cement).

These sanding materials will come in very handy for fine-finishing of your paint, and the coarser grit paper is used on bodywork.

If you put a couple of drops of dishwashing detergent in your sanding water, your paper and your pads will last much longer too. Rinse the pads thoroughly after use and store them somewhere they'll stay clean. Change the water and rinse out the cup after you finish using each grit. This will keep particles of grit that may have come loose from getting onto your next, finer-grit sanding operation, which can cause scratches.

[High octane]

If you can't fix your mistake, you can always make a new widow from clear acetate.

[Ace-Garageguy]

If you can't fix your mistake, you can always make a new widow from clear acetate.

Or soda bottles...http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=40824

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=78910

Edited September 7, 2014 by Ace-Garageguy

[unclescott58]

Put Future floor wax on your glass before installing. If you do have a slip, your less likely to damage the glass. I also use white glue designed for glueing clear plastic model parts. I've not had many problems with glass since I was a kid, when I used regular model glue for glueing my glass in.

Scott