Gluing clear lenses on chrome plated light buckets?

[volvoRsport]

As the topic says; how are you guys doing that to get a good result?

Thanks!

[Ace-Garageguy]

Or any PVA (polyvinyl acetate) glue. Pacer 560, Testors 3515, Elmer's, etc.)

Edited September 13, 2014 by Ace-Garageguy

[Pete J.]

Dat's da stuff! Another option is Pacer Formula 560 canopy glue. Both are white glues that dry clear and clean up with water!

[Steven Zimmerman]

I use clear acrylic paint

[Snake45]

White glue (Elmer's, Micro Krystal Kleer, Tacky Glue, etc--it's all pretty much the same stuff), or sometimes a tiny spot of clear epoxy.

[Guest]

I use the Testors windshield/canopy glue or future.

[Ramfins59]

I have good luck using clear enamel paint applied to the rim of the headlight bucket with a toothpick.

[Mike_G]

5-minute epoxy

[southpier]

Tamiya acrylic clear

[southpier]

I think most modelers who have 3 or 4 types of adhesive on the bench already will have something suitable without spending another fiver on a dedicated type.

[Pete J.]

PVA's have far more uses that just clear parts so a 5 spot is money well spent. I like the Formula 560 because it holds strong and gets tacky enough to hold parts quickly. It is great for gluing parts like spoilers, external rear view mirrors and door handles to painted surfaces. It's distinguishing characteristics are that it grips quickly, cleans up with water and it is a bit flexible after it dries. It grips well enough that you don't have to worry about something falling off but if you bump something after you are done, it won't take the paint with it like CA or epoxy. You can also dilute it with water and use it for decal adhesive. This stuff is not a one trick pony.

Edited September 13, 2014 by Pete J.

[unclescott58]

I've been using Testors Model Master Clear Parts Cement & Window Maker for years. Work just fine. From the tackiness stand point I maybe switching to the 560 canopy glue in the future.

Scott

Edited September 13, 2014 by unclescott58