sjordan2 Posted October 26, 2014 Posted October 26, 2014 The door pulls usually look something like a wide Greek "Omega" letter, upside down -- various sizes on different cars.
Harry P. Posted October 26, 2014 Author Posted October 26, 2014 Yes, that's pretty much what I was thinking.
Harry P. Posted October 26, 2014 Author Posted October 26, 2014 Moving on to the seats... I added the missing seat piping detail by using suoer glue to glue thin solder all along the seat cushion edges. I used solder instead of wire because solder is so much softer and easy to shape. Now I can go ahead and paint the seats and add the chrome side legs/tilt mechanisms (parts that are included in the kit).
Harry P. Posted October 26, 2014 Author Posted October 26, 2014 Skip... those latches on the door panel pockets... do you think they were leather tabs? Or would those have been chrome-plated pieces?
sjordan2 Posted October 26, 2014 Posted October 26, 2014 (edited) Latches on door panel pockets? Not sure I get that, but speaking in general, everything I've seen is that the door panel pockets pull out for storage, and are retained by small leather belts in the middle, like a classic purse that has a downward belt running through a leather loop. Likewise, as with Rollses of the era, the bottom part of the doors would have a horizontal leather retainer belt at the bottom, attaching the door to the cowling. Edited October 26, 2014 by sjordan2
Harry P. Posted October 26, 2014 Author Posted October 26, 2014 Latches on door panel pockets? Not sure I get that, but speaking in general, everything I've seen is that the door panel pockets pull out for storage, and are retained by small leather belts in the middle, like a classic purse that has a downward belt running through a leather loop. That's what I mean, That "latch" is leather.
sjordan2 Posted October 26, 2014 Posted October 26, 2014 That's what I mean, That "latch" is leather. Jawohl.
sjordan2 Posted October 26, 2014 Posted October 26, 2014 Moving on to the seats... I added the missing seat piping detail by using suoer glue to glue thin solder all along the seat cushion edges. I used solder instead of wire because solder is so much softer and easy to shape. Now I can go ahead and paint the seats and add the chrome side legs/tilt mechanisms (parts that are included in the kit). You might also want to use solder along the seatbacks, which should have fabric matching the carpet -- unlike Tourers that have a backseat, with front seats that usually have leather seat backs with pockets.
Harry P. Posted October 26, 2014 Author Posted October 26, 2014 There's a shelf behind the seats, and a trunk goes on that shelf. When that trunk is there, the seats go practically right up against that trunk and you can't see the seat backs.
sjordan2 Posted October 26, 2014 Posted October 26, 2014 (edited) There's a shelf behind the seats, and a trunk goes on that shelf. When that trunk is there, the seats go practically right up against that trunk and you can't see the seat backs. Correct. You can't see the seat backs if you put in the luggage. But you'll know in your heart of hearts they are sadly unfinished. Edited October 26, 2014 by sjordan2
Harry P. Posted October 26, 2014 Author Posted October 26, 2014 Correct. You can't see the seat backs if you put in the luggage. But you'll know in your heart of hearts they are sadly unfinished. If you can't see it... I don't do it.
Harry P. Posted October 27, 2014 Author Posted October 27, 2014 Got the seats painted... My "carpeting" might be a hair too big, scale-wise (it's fine model RR ballast). Or maybe it just seems that way because it's so obvious here without the interior being enclosed and the door panels and dash and steering wheel in place. I think once everything is in place and the floor is basically "in the shadows," it'll look passable. If I could do it over I might go with something a bit less "grainy," but oh well.
Harry P. Posted October 27, 2014 Author Posted October 27, 2014 On to the body. First step is to open up the trunk lid by scribing it open, and then adding the inner "lip" or flange with thin strip styrene where the weatherstripping would be and the trunk lid seals against.
cobraman Posted October 27, 2014 Posted October 27, 2014 I see a different Harry is going to finish this puppy up ! : )
Cato Posted October 27, 2014 Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) My "carpeting" might be a hair too big, scale-wise (it's fine model RR ballast). Or maybe it just seems that way because it's so obvious here without the interior being enclosed and the door panels and dash and steering wheel in place. I think once everything is in place and the floor is basically "in the shadows," it'll look passable. If I could do it over I might go with something a bit less "grainy," but oh well. Here's embossing powder from Michaels. It's actually that brown-I didn't paint it but you can: EDIT: This is also 1/16 scale. Edited October 27, 2014 by Cato
Harry P. Posted October 27, 2014 Author Posted October 27, 2014 Yeah, I like that better. I went with what I had on hand. I'm hoping the carpet will sort of visually "disappear" once the interior is done.
Harry P. Posted October 27, 2014 Author Posted October 27, 2014 I see a different Harry is going to finish this puppy up ! : ) It's almost like magic how my avatar keeps changing...
Harry P. Posted October 27, 2014 Author Posted October 27, 2014 This one is just for Cato... I painted the fender assembly today with a can of that "junk paint" from Hobby Lobby that I like so much (Odds 'n' Ends). And... no primer. Just took the fenders and blasted away with the black. I know that must sound like nails on a chalkboard to you! Or model building blasphemy! Oh, the humanity! It's in the dehydrator now, so no pix. (BTW... the fenders are so long they just barely fit into the dehydrator). But it came out beautifully. About as flawless a black finish as I've ever gotten... and I'm a lousy painter!
sjordan2 Posted October 27, 2014 Posted October 27, 2014 The interior is so crowded on this kit that it will be extremely difficult to see any carpet at all.
Cato Posted October 27, 2014 Posted October 27, 2014 Harry, I never doubt you. You can make a monkey's arse look like the Mona Lisa. Know what I use for a dehydrator for 'big boy' Rolls parts? My Optima sedan, parked in the sunny driveway. Cabin gets to 105 nicely...
fredo84 Posted October 28, 2014 Posted October 28, 2014 Wow what a MODEL Sir !!! My hat's off !!! You are my Mantor !!!!
Harry P. Posted October 28, 2014 Author Posted October 28, 2014 Harry, I never doubt you. You can make a monkey's arse look like the Mona Lisa. Know what I use for a dehydrator for 'big boy' Rolls parts? My Optima sedan, parked in the sunny driveway. Cabin gets to 105 nicely... Now that's thinking outside the box!
sjordan2 Posted October 28, 2014 Posted October 28, 2014 On to the body. First step is to open up the trunk lid by scribing it open, and then adding the inner "lip" or flange with thin strip styrene where the weatherstripping would be and the trunk lid seals against. I would never have considered opening the trunk, because I have no idea what you would see inside. Rolls kits open to show tool kits, but this is beyond beyond. I'll just scribe deeper into the panel.
sjordan2 Posted October 28, 2014 Posted October 28, 2014 I'm using metal jewelry jump rings for instrument bezels. What glue do you suggest?
Harry P. Posted October 28, 2014 Author Posted October 28, 2014 I'm using metal jewelry jump rings for instrument bezels. What glue do you suggest I wouldn't use glue at all, I'd use either clear enamel or acrylic.
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