Harry P. Posted October 28, 2014 Author Posted October 28, 2014 The lower door hinges go into pockets on the inside of the inner door panels. The instructions tell you to use a heated screwdriver to "squish" that locating pin down to lock the metal hinges in place, but of course I always have to march to the beat of a different drummer... so I used super glue to first glue the hinges in place, then 5-minute epoxy to fill that little pocket and literally bury the hinges in epoxy. Then when the outer door skins are glued to the inner panels, the outer skins will cover that little pocket and those hinges will never come loose.
Cien1986 Posted October 29, 2014 Posted October 29, 2014 Harry iam reading from the beginning.... all i can do is sitting quietly and amaze.... and i agree with cato... you can make monkey to looks like monalisa.... wkwkwk tottaly agree...
Cien1986 Posted October 30, 2014 Posted October 30, 2014 (edited) Fast forward… the upper door panels were sanded, the top edge rounded over, stained, and "varnished" with several coats of Future. The lower panels were painted brown, given a black wash, and finally a shot of matte acrylic. The "chrome" trim is beading wire from Hobby Lobby. I still don't know how the door pulls will look, or exactly where they will be placed. I'll have to think about that... Harry how do you paint the lower part of the door? any magic? why it look like leather? and what glue you use to glue the wood and plastic joint? 2 part epoxy or ca glue? Edited October 30, 2014 by Cien1986
Harry P. Posted October 30, 2014 Author Posted October 30, 2014 I made a fuel filter out of various bits of styrene and aluminum. The body is a piece of sprue, the top a slice of larger diameter styrene rod with the fittings made of aluminum tube and hex-shaped styrene rod "nuts." The mounting bracket is made of aluminum cut from a pie tin. I also added connectors on the top of the fuel tank so I can run the various fuel lines later. I also drilled "lightening holes" in the vertical flanges attached to the firewall.
Harry P. Posted October 30, 2014 Author Posted October 30, 2014 Harry how do you paint the lower part of the door? any magic? why it look like leather? and what glue you use to glue the wood and plastic joint? 2 part epoxy or ca glue? It looks like leather because that's what I wanted it to look like! I painted it with brown acrylic craft paint, then added a wash of Future mixed with a bit of black craft paint. Finally I sprayed the panels with satin clear. The wooden top part was glued to the lower part using CA (crazy glue). Look at post #126 above and you can see how I used a piece of cardstock as a "bridge" on the inside of the panel. This was used to tie the upper and lower panels together. I glued that cardstock piece first to the lower panel, then glued the upper (wooden) piece to the cardstock, leaving a gap between the upper and lower panel equal to the the thickness of the silver wire. Then I ran the silver wire into that gap and added a drop of CA to each end (from tthe back side) to allow capillary action to draw the glue all along the wire, locking it in place. Finally I cut off the ends of the wire flush with the front and rear edges of the panels.
Harry P. Posted October 30, 2014 Author Posted October 30, 2014 Also apparent is the yellow and black scheme... Yes, the secret is out...
sjordan2 Posted October 30, 2014 Posted October 30, 2014 Spectacular. All that stuff on the intermediate fuel tank is amazing, especially at such a teeny size.
Harry P. Posted October 30, 2014 Author Posted October 30, 2014 Spectacular. All that stuff on the intermediate fuel tank is amazing, especially at such a teeny size. Yeah, it's a pain trying to work this small, even with a magnifier. There's just a finite limit to how small I can work, and this is about that limit! I can't make my fingers any smaller!
Harry P. Posted October 31, 2014 Author Posted October 31, 2014 I got the door skins finished. The chrome trim on the window glass is BMF.
cobraman Posted October 31, 2014 Posted October 31, 2014 Good call on the color combo. It's going to be very sharp.
sjordan2 Posted October 31, 2014 Posted October 31, 2014 Great work on the window tim. Did you do anything to the door chrome? Looks more real than the basic kit chrome.
Harry P. Posted October 31, 2014 Author Posted October 31, 2014 No, nothing. Maybe it's just the way the flash makes it look?
Harry P. Posted October 31, 2014 Author Posted October 31, 2014 At first I had no idea how I was going to do the trim along the fender wheel openings. On the real car it's chrome trim with a white rubber(?) insert. First I figured I'd foil the trim and just let it go at that, as I couldn't figure out an easy way to do the chrome and the white and still keep the lines sharp. Plus I was worried that if I foil the trim and then make the slightest slip with the X-acto when trimming it, there goes the fender! So finally I decided on a foolproof method of keeping the white and the chrome separated and sharp, although the tradeoff is that the white part is somewhat wider than it probably should be... but I was willing to take that tradeoff in accuracy in exchange for keeping the lines sharp between the black fenders, chrome, and white trim. I'm happy with the result; it actually looks better in real life than the way the camera sees it. First I masked off the trim and brush painted it flat white. I used acrylic craft paint instead of "model paint" because if I got any bleed under the tape I could wash it away with water without hurting the black paint on the fenders: Then I used some silver jewelry wire (the same stuff I used to create that trim strip on the interior door panels), carefully shaped a piece to exactly conform to the curvature of the wheel opening, then super carefully glued the wire in place using tiny drops of CA and working very slowly by clamping the trim at one end, adding a tine drop of CA, another drop further along the curve, etc., until I worked my way around the entire opening. Then as added "insurance," I flowed some Future into the seam between fender and wire to hopefully lock the wire in place along with the drops of CA (the belt and suspenders approach!).
Cato Posted October 31, 2014 Posted October 31, 2014 OUTSTANDING thought process and execution. I would have passed on that but you are the better man! Somebody get Skip an oxygen mask.... :lol:
bobthehobbyguy Posted October 31, 2014 Posted October 31, 2014 Very nice. Bet you were happy to get through that. Its a pleasure to watch this come together.
sjordan2 Posted October 31, 2014 Posted October 31, 2014 (edited) OUTSTANDING thought process and execution. I would have passed on that but you are the better man! Somebody get Skip an oxygen mask.... :lol: I'm hyperventilating. While this is a rarely built model, I have never seen anyone else attempt that, not even the box art builders. Perfect. For anyone who came in late, go back through the first few pages to see what Harry has had to contend with. You're killin' me, Harry, and setting a very high bar. Edited October 31, 2014 by sjordan2
Harry P. Posted October 31, 2014 Author Posted October 31, 2014 Thanks, guys. I was putting off that fender detail for the longest time. I was building everything else instead, because I really had no idea how I was going to do it! The photos really don't do it justice. The trim is super crisp and sharp to the naked eye... it looks about as good as I could have hoped for. And yes, Bob.... I'm happy to have that step behind me. And I managed to do all four wheel arches and not mess up the black paint anywhere! Whew!
Cato Posted October 31, 2014 Posted October 31, 2014 Harry, meant to ask; how did the flat acrylic adhere to the glossy black? Did you use retarder or sand the black edge first? Did you need multiple coats of white?
Harry P. Posted October 31, 2014 Author Posted October 31, 2014 Harry, meant to ask; how did the flat acrylic adhere to the glossy black? Did you use retarder or sand the black edge first? Did you need multiple coats of white? I needed two coats to get full coverage. I'm sure the paint doesn't stick particularly well to the gloss black, and if I took a piece of masking tape and put it down on the white I could probably pull it right off... but since I have no plans to do that, it'll be fine! All the white has to do is just be there. Nobody is going to touch it or try and rub it off.
Harry P. Posted October 31, 2014 Author Posted October 31, 2014 What we need to do now is convince Skip to jump in the pool and join us. I know you have this kit, Skip...
Cato Posted November 1, 2014 Posted November 1, 2014 What we need to do now is convince Skip to jump in the pool and join us. I know you have this kit, Skip... Are you throwing down the 'gauntlet' ...? If so be prepared for a drubbing from the Benz Meister....
DynoMight Posted November 1, 2014 Posted November 1, 2014 Harry! Wow oh wow! Excellent! The yellow will really go with the car. It is absolutely amazing!
Codi Posted November 1, 2014 Posted November 1, 2014 Your attention to detail and super sanitary assembly shine through in the pics. Looking forward to your progress and updates. Cheers, Tim
Harry P. Posted November 1, 2014 Author Posted November 1, 2014 I finally got the fenders glued to the frame. It tool a lot of small spring clamps to make sure the tops of the frame rails were in contact with the underside of the fender unit all the way from front to back, because the chassis was slightly warped (twisted). But enough clamps, liquid glow flowed into the joint, and overnight drying and all is well... For some reason that white trim along the wheel openings looks way thicker in photos than in real life. In reality the white trim is thinner than the chrome wire. Weird...
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