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Posted

Just a heads-up for everyone. The wheels that come with the kit are nothing like any on the pictures on here. Also the kit (81) comes with horrible tires that are absolutely useless. I already ordered different wheels for the build and I am looking at some Aoshima tires for them. Altho, I believe that what is found on the Tamiya F40/Mythos kits and in any of the Fujimi's Koenig Specials kits, would be the best looking tire combo for this build.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

OK, so the parts I was expecting just showed up yesterday.

I got the Hobby design photo etched pieces and the wheels we want to use on the model from eightyOne.

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The tires that come with the wheels are absolutely useless for this build. They are way too thin and all four of them are the same width.

Meanwhile I drilled all the "rivet holes" on the fenders in preparation for paint. They were too shallow and I am affraid that after primer, sanding, base coat, carbon fiber decals and clear coat, they would have disappeared if I left them the way they were.

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Also I cut out the molded in grilles at the back, which I am going to replace with photo etched ones.

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This is all the engine from the kit, which is disappointing. The Revell kit is tenfold better, except for the wheels/tires, which are really well done on the Fujimi.

I glued the photoetched scripts on the intake plenum, so I could spray everything in red.

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Thanks for looking and stay tuned.

Posted

Thank you guys.

The body was already sprayed with grey primer and sanded. It is about to receive its white base.

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Posted

Michael....... I know you had mentioned installing the headlight buckets to align the front bumper, but I thought you would've removed them for painting. Do you find this to be a simple masking procedure when painting them black or will you just simply hand paint them? I'm obviously just still learning so I'm trying to pick your brain a bit. Thinking maybe it just avoids another glueing process to a finished body?

Posted

Michael....... I know you had mentioned installing the headlight buckets to align the front bumper, but I thought you would've removed them for painting. Do you find this to be a simple masking procedure when painting them black or will you just simply hand paint them? I'm obviously just still learning so I'm trying to pick your brain a bit. Thinking maybe it just avoids another glueing process to a finished body?

Actually my plan is to paint them black together with the fenders and then mask them off, so no clear coat builds up there, which can create potential fitment issues later.

Posted

that is a nice build you have going on there. that's a pretty intimidating looking photo etch sheet there too. I am constantly bending up pieces when I try to cut them from a sheet like that. do you have any secrets to share on cutting them off there? do you use scissors, or #11 blade? or maybe a sprue cutter?

that PE is really going to spruce that build up. I like those flares and how you drilled the rivet holes too. good thinking!

jb

Posted (edited)

that is a nice build you have going on there. that's a pretty intimidating looking photo etch sheet there too. I am constantly bending up pieces when I try to cut them from a sheet like that. do you have any secrets to share on cutting them off there? do you use scissors, or #11 blade? or maybe a sprue cutter?

that PE is really going to spruce that build up. I like those flares and how you drilled the rivet holes too. good thinking!

jb

I use a piece of glass (like a side view mirror from a car). Place the P/E fret on top of that glass and hold the photo etch piece that I'm cutting with a small square plastic block. That prevents the P/E piece from bending or warping. Then use a #10 exacto blade to cut it off the fret. Use a diamond file (I have the Tamiya file) to gently file any rough edges. Seems to work very good for me.

Edited by Pizzwizz24
Posted

good idea with the plastic block, I will try that. I will look into that file too. that's part of my problem: when I trim close but not close enough I don't really have any files fine enough to not catch up in the thinness of the PE edge. thanks for the tips

jb

Posted

Next thing to be addressed is the interior. I don't know what were the guys at Fujimi thinking, but the door panels are basically missing their upper half

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To address the issue, I made templates from paper and then cut the shapes out of styrene.

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Then attached the new pieces to the interior, so we now have some three dimensional door panels

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Ferraris always have a door pull on the passenger door. For the purpose I cut a piece of solder and flattened it with the handle of my exacto knife, to give it an oval profile.

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then the panel was drilled and a little notch was made, where the piece was glued in.

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Now we have some decent interior, which with some detail painting, decals and photo etch should come alive.

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Meanwhile, the body is a nice even flat white. It will be curing until tomorrow, when it will receive its pearl white paint.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
Posted

Time to revive this thread.

The seatbelts were tested my patience, but I got them done

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Next the interior was painted in two tone red and black in a manner hiding its inaccuracies and carpeting and some more detail were added.
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The upper part of the belts were assembled and then attached together with the upper portion of the seats.
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Posted
The engine compartment was also painted and put together
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The dash was also first painted and then detailed with some carbon fiber and photoetch.
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And everything together….
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Posted

Thanks guys. AFX, the seatbelt material is a precut with adhesive backing from the parts box. I believe it came from a Fujimi Ferrari 330, but not 100% sure.

Posted

The body was sprayed Tamiya Pearl Whilte

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Then the fenders and the spoilers and diffuser were sprayed gloss black in preparation for the carbon fiber that will go on top of it.

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Posted

The black parts were covered in carbon fiber, some other decals were added and then everything was sprayed with clear.

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