Problem with Future?

[Buffs Fan]

Hello all I just airbrushed my first project and dipped the body next thing I know all of the color was floating on top of the future So I had another painted piece I brushed the future on same issue now I thought since it was acrylic I could use on acrylic paint has anyone had this happen if so what do I need to do?

[SfanGoch]

Hello all I just airbrushed my first project and dipped the body next thing I know all of the color was floating on top of the future So I had another painted piece I brushed the future on same issue now I thought since it was acrylic I could use on acrylic paint has anyone had this happen if so what do I need to do?

First question: how long did you let the body dry?

Second question: Dipping the body in Future............................WHAT IN THE WORLD WERE YOU THINKING?!?

Dipping a part as large as a body is definitely not the recommended method for clearcoating. Too much Future will absolutely cause the acrylic paint to lift. Why didn't you airbrush the Future? It sprays right out of the container, requires no thinning and easily cleaned out of the brush with Windex. Just spray on two or three light mist coats to seal the base paint. Then, spray a wetter final coat to achieve a glossy finish. Also, don't brush Future on and acrylic painted surface. You have an airbrush; use it.

Edited January 4, 2015 by SfanGoch

[935k3]

Future has ammonia in it. Acrlics can be stripped with ammonia. Future has been known to crack over Tamiya Acrylics.

[jbwelda]

I don't think Future (really not called that anymore) has ammonia in it. ammonia REMOVES Future and I tried thinning Future with ammonia one time and the result was not pretty.

aircraft modelers dip canopies and other large items into it all the time. I have dipped 1/32 scale bodies into it and then let it all run down to one corner where I wicked off most of it and let it dry. worked pretty darn perfect though I did remove a bit of it with ammonia after it had dried. so I don't see why you couldn't do it with 1/24, though as you say airbrushing might be a better choice.

now about the lifting problem, I think maybe you aren't getting adhesion with your paint? cause it shouldn't lift the paint, acrylic or not. I don't recall precisely ever using it on an acrylic paint because I don't use acrylic much, but I never heard of this problem either.

well best of luck, I guess if its happening to you its a big problem. if you cant find another reason you might think about how you prep surfaces for paint.

jb

Edited January 4, 2015 by jbwelda

[Harry P.]

Future has ammonia in it.

No. Future is clear acrylic.

And it's not called Future anymore, it's now called Pledge Floor Care.

http://www.pledge.com/en-US/Products/Pages/floor-care-finish.aspx

[SfanGoch]

No. Future is clear acrylic.

And it's not called Future anymore, it's now called Pledge Floor Care.

http://www.pledge.com/en-US/Products/Pages/floor-care-finish.aspx

Old habits die hard.

As far as a/c modelers dipping canopies goes, they aren't large parts and are dipped before painting the frames, if the canopy has them. Any other parts with a large surface area, like wings, fuselage, etc., would be airbrushed.

William indicated that he's had to remove excess with ammonia after dipping a body. That be the problem, matey.The problem with dipping something as big as a car body is controlling the bulidup and/or runoff of excess Pledge around the wheelwells, window frames and other locations. When you airbrush paint or Pledge, you have absolute control over the amount of medium being applied. Multiple light coats are always better.

[Buffs Fan]

Thank you! All of the replies were very helpful

[Drake69]

Ok. Wait a minute. Hold up a second here.

1: Future (Pledge with Future Floor Care) absolutely DOES NOT HAVE AMMONIA IN IT.... WHATSOEVER.

2: Dipping an entire car body in Future WILL NOT HARM THE PAINT ON AN ALREADY SPRAYED BODY, on the condition that the paint has had time to set properly (at least 24 to 48 hours) before dipping. This might be longer if the paint is airbrushed on, but if a good basecoat of primer is first AND HAS HAD TIME TO DRY, the next layer of paint, be it airbrush or rattlecan, should adhere properly to your model. Then dipping it in Future afterwards will be fine.

3: A car body can be dipped in Future MULTIPLE TIMES without EVER harming the paintjob. Don't believe me? Look at the pics below...

In the case of the Mustang, I dipped the body in Future after a successful spray of Model Master Lacquer (I let the paint dry 24 hours first), let that dry for 24 hours, applied all my decals, let them dry (12 hours), THEN REDIPPED THE BODY IN FUTURE AGAIN, and let it dry. This sealed in the paint, the decals, EVERYTHING, and never once hurt my previous work.

In the case of the General, the decals from Hazzardous had two sets that needed to be applied separately for them to work. The first set was the white backgrounds, and the second set was the color. After painting and dipping the body, I applied the white set first, dipped the car, applied the last set, THEN DIPPED IT AGAIN, all with ample time inbetween to dry. Not a single decal has ever curled, yellowed, or fractured, and the paint is the same color as it was when I put it down. Whenever you dip a car body, you immerse it in Future for about 15 to 20 seconds, then lift it out and allow it to settle. This will wick off any excess and seal in whatever's underneath. This also goes for BMP and aftermarket MCG badges.

Now, I will admit, I have ZERO EXPERIENCE with airbrush paints. I have no idea how thin they are or what entails putting them on. I would imagine that if someone was experienced enough to paint a car in that manner, then it wouldn't be all that different than rattlecan in terms of coats. But I have never had a problem with any of my models and Future, and I would say that 90% of them were dipped this way.

Edited January 6, 2015 by Drake69

[jbwelda]

as someone once said: "the envious cry out: 'it can't be done!'"

jb

[ChrisR]

For those that use an airbrush, how long do you wait in between coats?

[jbwelda]

shot thin it dries very quickly, I would say maybe 10 minutes between thick coats.

jb

[unclescott58]

Heck, I and everybody else in our local model car club just use cotton balls to apply "Future". No need for dipping or spraying it on with an airbrush. Just wipe it on with a cotton ball. It's simple and works great!

Scott

[Danno]

I've used foam paint 'brushes' for applying Past Future and Future Pledge. Worked well without dipping.

[JohnU]

Makeup sponge wedges are perfect applicators for Future. The almost micoscopic pores of these sponges allow me to put it on as heavy or light as I want with no streaking! And they're cheap too!

[jbwelda]

don't cotton balls leave shreads of cotton in the Future?

I have a couple of foam kinda paddle things I plan on one day using to apply Future but so far mostly I just use it for smaller areas where a q tip or small brush is appropriate. have airbrushed it a couple times but typically I use Tamiya or lacquer clear for bodies.

jb

[landman]

Well that solves a mystery. I've been looking for Future high and low to no avail. I was wondering if maybe it wasn't for sale in this country. Now I KNOW Pledge products are. So I'm on a new hunt.

[Drake69]

Make sure it says Acrylic on the bottle, and also make sure it's unscented.

[jbwelda]

I put manageable amounts of Future into an old garlic container. Now its scented.

jb

[Drake69]

I put manageable amounts of Future into an old garlic container. Now its scented.

That's one way to make your models unique...