Exhaust headers

[1hobby1]

Hey everyone,

Still new to the modeling world but I am currently working on a Revell 69 Camaro and was wondering if anyone has any advice or tricks for gluing on exhaust headers.

I really want to make sure when the exhaust headers are glued on to the block, they are not crooked in anyway and will line up with the rest of the exhaust system.

Any advice or tricks?

Thanks!

[1930fordpickup]

People on here talk about using pins to keep things straight . I have never done it but if you check in the tips section you may find it.

[Snake45]

I've built that kit twice, and I don't remember any particular problems with the exhaust alignment if assembled just according to kit instructions.

The REAL be-yotch with this kit is getting the finished chassis into the body for final assembly. (Hint: don't glue the firewall to anything. Just let it "float" as you finagle the chassis into the body, and it will snap right up into place like magic. Strange but true.)

[1hobby1]

1930fordpickup - Thanks, I'll take some time a see if I find anything

snake45 - That's great advice, thanks! The headers just don't have the best fit against the block on this particular kit (not flush at all) for some reason but hopefully I'll be able to figure it out. Thanks!

[Tom Geiger]

I do the pin thing. Here is a slant six manifold with pins to hold it to the engine, as well as a pin for the exhaust pipe. I thought that the kit supplied mounting points were flimsy and wouldn't hold up to handling and adjustments. This is a Lindberg slant six, going into an MPC Volare so I knew I'd have issues lining up an exhaust, so I need the manifold to be sturdy.

I had to make the exhaust system since the V8 exhaust would be on the right side, and the six exhaust is on the left side. I started this with the dual exhaust system from the AMT '71 Duster kit. I carefully cut it all apart into the exhaust system parts like you'd order for your 1:1 car. There are a total of 7 pieces here. I had to add the cat converter from the Volare since the Duster exhaust predated those. I strung all the parts together with the straight pin connectors loose, so I could twist and move things around as needed. Once I was happy with the positioning, I glued it all together same way you'd tighten up the bolts on a 1:1 system. Once that was done I created pin mounts to fix it to the chassis. The front is right on that pin you see in the first photo of the manifold. It fit right on there like a glove. I didn't even bother gluing it. The pins are under the cat converter and under the rear most bracket near the tail pipe.

Here's the same concept on my '29 Ford pickup.

I use regular straight pins. I cut them with regular garage quality wire cutters. I usually cut off the tip, but I leave the whole pin on the item when I'm gluing, and use it as a handle. I cut it to length for assembly. Be careful cutting pins, wear eye protection as the pieces can go flying. I usually cup my hand over it as I'm cutting to catch the pieces. Hope this helps!

[southpier]

how do you center the pins on the pipes (rod)?

jig or experienced eye?

thanks

[Tom Geiger]

By eye, but I usually start by creating an indent with an exacto blade to set the drill in so it doesn't skip out of position. Hole position is kinda forgiving, if too far off center you can drill hole wider and fill it in with gap filling glue. I use thick ca for this

Edited January 7, 2015 by Tom Geiger

[taaron76]

One of the tricks I learned on accident was using E6000 glue. It's super adhesive and dries pretty quick, but its almost like rubber and is flexible. This has helped me when lining up the rest of the exhaust where I might need to expand the header in or out, just a tad. The crazy thing about this glue is that if you decide to take it off, just let it dry and pull it off with a pair of tweezers and it usually doesn't rip the paint off. I use it on headers and suspension parts since it is flexible and allows a little give. Might not work for everyone, but it works for me.

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/e-6000-adhesive-511352/

Tim

[Ace-Garageguy]

Thanks for the E6000 tip, Tim. I'm needing something exactly like that.

[taaron76]

Thanks for the E6000 tip, Tim. I'm needing something exactly like that.

Bill, no problem! Something to watch for when you apply E6000; It can get "stringy", so don't use too much. Once you work with it a little, you will figure it out.

Tim