Tony_B Posted January 4, 2015 Posted January 4, 2015 I always seem to putter away with two projects at once. In this shot, I've started in earnest on the infamous snap-GTO kit and the AMT Christine model, which I'm trying to turn into a plain '58 Belvedere. I used the same color paint for both, but as you can see the molded red of the AMT kit changed things just a bit. I'll try to post updates as I get time, but here's links to my reference (1:1) shots: GTO: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/358036239100312140/ Belvedere: http://www.classycars.org/Plymouth.1958.Belvedere.661.html
hgbben Posted January 4, 2015 Posted January 4, 2015 Did you use any primer before applying the color?
Tony_B Posted January 4, 2015 Author Posted January 4, 2015 Yeah, but I'm thinking that I probably shouldn't have rushed things....and put another coat of primer on....but being the type-A that I am :rolleyes:
hgbben Posted January 4, 2015 Posted January 4, 2015 I've learned that lesson the hard way as well. Cure time is crucial and it doesn't hurt to apply more than one coat of primer. On another note it's still early in your builds to start over without loosing too much time. If it's bad enough, strip the body of paint and try again. Castrol Super Clean works great and should clean up that in a day, maybe 2.
Tony_B Posted January 4, 2015 Author Posted January 4, 2015 Sounds great....I'll probably end up doing that....I had hesitated before in getting the Christine model because of the red and knowing I might have to take that route, but hard to turn down a $10 kit..... :D
hgbben Posted January 4, 2015 Posted January 4, 2015 Understand on the good priced kits. On bodies and parts that are molded in color already i apply at least 2 coats of primer, just to make sure there will not be any bleed through.
StevenGuthmiller Posted January 4, 2015 Posted January 4, 2015 Personally, I usually apply several coats of primer depending on what type of paint you're using &, for that matter, what type of primer. One coat of Duplicolor primer doesn't cover squat! And on the other hand, one coat of Testors primer would probably be sufficient if you're using enamels or Testors lacquers. I usually use a good 5-6 coats of Duplicolor primer, but then again I'm using automotive paints, so the more primer the better to protect against "crazing" or "ghosting". Steve
Tony_B Posted January 12, 2015 Author Posted January 12, 2015 Been working on my snap-GTO over the last few days. Cleaned up the paint job and have started in on the BMF. I've been learning a lot from the boards, and have been working on the headlights, dash and more. Long way to go, but still having fun! Really appreciate everyone's knowledge on this....it's been a super help!
Tony_B Posted January 20, 2015 Author Posted January 20, 2015 Progress continues on my GTO. Interior is almost done--I'm reading here on the boards and then applying techniques, albeit slowly. On the interior, I tried a wash with india ink, but not satisified with the results, so I threw a little powdered graphite on the interior. I think it helps, but maybe a bit too shiny. The exterior, I also tried the wash, to help outline the doors....it was alright, but I ended up using acrylic black paint over the door openings and then immediately wiping them off...it works a bit better I think. No doubt about it though...I screwed up the headlights....tried to superglue them and then put a bit of water on the glue to make it white...that was a big mistake....any way I can rescue those?
SfanGoch Posted January 24, 2015 Posted January 24, 2015 Get a hold of some Zap Z-7 CA Debonder Gel. It won't craze the styrene like some of the liquid debonders. Cover the lenses with some, let it sit for a few minutes and gently pry them off the bezels. When the CA is ready to be removed, the gel turns from a bright red to a light pink color. You can remove the CA by using the tip of a hobby blade. Once that's done, you can re-polish the lenses until they're transparent. You can dip them in some Pledge Acrylic Floor Finish to ensure any minute scratches are filled in and they stay clear. Instead of CA, use a small amount of Elmer's White Glue to reattach the lenses. The Elmer's dries clear and will hold the lenses in place quite nicely. You can also use Microscale Krystal Klear or Testors Clear Parts Cement; but, they're basically the same thing as Elmer's and a hell of a lot more expensive. I tend to go for the cheap alternative for stuff like that.
Tony_B Posted January 24, 2015 Author Posted January 24, 2015 Thanks much! I had never heard of the Debonder Gel, but it looks like Amazon has it, so I will give it a whirl...I can't do too much else anyway as far as painting the body again...too darn cold here again today! :blink:
SfanGoch Posted January 24, 2015 Posted January 24, 2015 I dunno what part of Ohio you reside in; but, if you happen to live near either Cleveland or Columbus, you can go to Blick/Utrecht Art Supplies and get the Z-7 for $4.99. I checked out one of the Amazon listings and the shipping is almost as much as the cost of the debonder.
Tony_B Posted January 25, 2015 Author Posted January 25, 2015 Thanks!!! That's not too far and gives me an excuse to go "research"!!!
Tony_B Posted February 1, 2015 Author Posted February 1, 2015 Progress continues! I've just got to finish up the interior, detail the suspension...and work out a few kinks here and there. Washed the rims with India ink, thought that came out pretty good.
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